brokebill

just dont let our incompetence sour you! Be a lot of us walking within a month!

thanks yall, i know this has been covered in many threads , but hose sizes/types were just vaguely reffered to. i have a parts list as long as my arm and hard to get anything done making repeated trips for parts due to wrong applications. Thanks, Bill

thanks. Yeah im a real believer in extra parts.

and you are correct also GD . this car has a lot of ghetto fixes. could have spent a couple years in mexico!

you are correct Gloyale. i was under there today again and the back has just the hose. i had everything loose from the manifold back and the oxy sensor is in the front converter. Just blended together in my tired mind. running it unhooked right now right before second converter. is loud as hell, but also seems to have less power this way. Maybe not enough backpressure?

______________________________________________ finally spotted the leak. one of the little hoses going into what i think is the thermostat housing. tried to cut out the bad part but was then just a little too short to reattatch snugly. what size/type hose is this ? looks like a lot of other hoses the same size in that area so i might as well pick up extra.

i know a lot of people come through, but with the personalized help i get it feels like yall do actually know my car. appreciate you all. oxy sensor part #11027 the one? thanks again

pics would definately help yall help me. (a compatable memory card reader is in the budget) as i've mentioned about my car before, it has underwent some real backyard mystery modifications before i got it and the exhaust is no exception. the second converter has maybe a foot of pipe on the back of it and just sits in a bigger pipe that makes up the rest of the exhaust. no clamp or anything. Dont see how any exhaust ever made it all the way to the end of the tailpipe.

yeah that "fonzie slap" trick works when my heater blower motor stops working.

this is my 86 carbed. not sure the state of manufacture. my other project is my crown vic which i'm changing to duals.( There is an excellent forum if anyone here has a crown vic or grand marquis. just pm me if you need details) a flange gasket and long screwdriver and i can reuse my back converter and leave hose and oxy. sensor in place. im pretty sure the oxy. sensor is bad(from info in old threads) should i just replace with the cheapest generic? thanks again all.

very well spoken. thank you

i can smell it , and see the small pool on top of the block, but cant see the source. starting to use a little more now so getting worried.

i know this is an old thread but... i also have coolant on the front of the block where it says E82. cannot find the source. any suggestions cause is driving me nuts!

looking at water pumps. even with my specific applications ,it gives different sizes based on hub heights. how do i determine since its a special order and can't just compare?

time to do some quickie exhaust work. front catalytic converter seems fine. from the second catalytic converter(or resonator?) back it all needs to go. the second converter has a hose running into it and a sensor plug . can i do away with second converter and just run straight pipe? what about the rubber hose and sensor? thanks ---------------------------------------- ok, got back under the car today and i can reuse the back conveter. just need to punch screen out of it. how necessary is that oxygen sensor in it? and that rubber hose? never did much exhaust and i'm working on 2 different cars at the same time. HELP!!!

hope to be able to post pics soon. since i modified it to 1 belt, i have cut or unbolted a lot of ac hoses and fittings so even though cant completely remove ac , was able to free up a lot of working room.

hey , my air conditioner pulley was raising hell so so i removed the belts, removed the pulley from the air conditioner compressor and figured i'd get a shorter belt and just run without the back belt. problem: the shaft that held the ac pulley blocked the new path of belt. my solution: took a hacksaw and sawed off shaft. got appropriate belt and actually feels stronger not using 2 belts to pull most of the same pulleys. Woulda been a lot easier if alt didn't bolt to the ac comp.

im actually taking off for a couple days so sorry i'll miss you. and there is a tunnel between gatlinburg and pigeon forge with one lane closed so be warned traffic will be a b*tch. enjoy you stay.

when setting my timing i disconect and plug the 2 vac lines on my distributor, set the idle at about 700 like it says. it has a very slight miss and my timing mark isn't steady. it kinda drifts back and forth a couple degrees so theres a little guessing involved. the drifting is consistent (if that makes sense) not wild but wondering what might cause this. also should i change plug gap or anything to optimize performance?

nope no pinging. people think im crazy but i've always used amoco/bp 93 octane in all my cars. i ran a tankfull in an old falcon i had 20 yrs ago and it made such a difference i've used it ever since.

Moe runs pretty good with timing set right , but when i advance it 2 degrees i can tell a big difference in power. is this ok or will it cause trouble in the long run?

i guess since my covers are off and its no big deal getting the belts off it would make the most sense to take them off and clean everything up ever so often.huh why didnt i think of that?

maybe i'll have some solid advice to help someone else eventually but for now... last year Moe just quit pulling. in a pinch for time and at the time clueless on front wheel drive issues(especially Subaru) i had it pulled to local garage. turns out stripped hub. went to the junkyard and got one. garage put it on(i trust the garage but not the paticular fella who did that job) couple days later i notice the axle nut was loose, cotter pin still in place. chalked it up to an oversight, tightened best i could with a big adjustable wrench. it kept doing the same thing so called the mechanic i did trust and he said the nut was probably stripped since the axle is so hard its threads were probably ok. long story a little shorter, got real used to putting on axle nuts and kept spares in the car. and yes the conical spacer is in there and the washer is facing the right way(side stamped out is facing out). had the rotors turned a while back(installed new ones the other day) and noticed the left "problem" side had practically no grease in it. repacked it with general purpose grease and seemed fine till i went to change rotors the other day and it was loose again. 2 months instead of 2 days at least. well it was about greaseless again. i cleaned it all, repacked it with the right hi temp grease and tightened the crap out of it with a socket and the biggest ratchet i've ever seen. hoping that will get it but if it keeps it up , what should i do next aside from a new axle? long thread i know but i try to be detailed to eliminate the obvious. thanks for bearing with me.

i hate to overwhelm the forum with all the questions i have on my subaru(we call him Moe) so i'll just chip away 1 at a time and hope i don't get tiresome. when i recently installed new timing belts tensioners etc on Moe(and thanks for helping smooth that job out) the covers were busted beyond reusing so just going without them for now. my question, what is the best way to keep them exposed parts clean? carb cleaner, brake cleaner or what. its still remarkably clean but that wont last. i dont wanna use anything that will hurt the belts or anything else so figured i'd see what worked for others in this position.thanks