isleymerl

I have tested for spark a couple of times and it seems good but I'll check again. When it runs the timing seems fine.

I had thought of that but haven't checked yet. I'll try that

It had erratic fuel pressure so I replaced the pump. It starts and runs better now but not all the time. Has died a few times and won't start for a while. This is a carburated model. I am suspecting choke issues. Any ideas?

It had erratic fuel pressure so I replaced the pump. It starts and runs better now but not all the time. Has died a few times and won't start for a while. This is a carburated model. Any ideas?

I have wondered about the eibach 1"-1.5" lowering springs but there are a lot of rocks in the road where I live. What else might be good for this set up? the baseball Bat procedure could be my answer. I realized that the side that rubs more is the one that still has the rubber lining on the fender. I did set the struts down to 1 and the seemed softer enough. I think I can see where it is rubbing already but I will look further. I will look at other threads for swapping the ej22. I am just curious at the moment and had heard that it was hard. Well hopefully I have time in the next few days to check it out. Thanks

Not surprised about the agx's. I just hope that a lifetime guarantee would mean that they could last more than a few months. So do you feel that you sacrificed the stiffness of the agx for a longer lasting softer gr2? Or did you not turn your agx's up? I run mine at 4 front 7 rear. Someone has suggested that I roll a baseball bat between the tire and fender to roll the lip in though there isn't much room and I would like a non-customizing answer(like I'm going to get it).lol I would hate to ruin my rear fenders though I would go slow and carefully.

Thanks for clearing that up Numchux! No offense to bheinen74(and thanks for the reply!)but of course I bought the bigger vented rotors and stainless lines. So the springs were brand new(stock springs) when I bought the kyb's 6yrs ago as well as the towers. It is happening on both sides but started on the passenger side and is still worse on that side. I have bounced the corners in the back and couldn't tell right off. I keep them set at 7 so I still need to go out and set them down to 1 and see if there is a difference. 1.5yrs ago I switched cars so I decided to take apart all of my struts against some of my friends advice who think that I worry too much. I found that the back ones were both blown! After 4+yrs of street driving?! When I returned them to superupair Boulder they asked "what are you doing, jumping it?" which we had a good laugh about. I will set them down to 1 today and see what I think. Don't they put these struts on the older rally cars? Numchux, is it hard to put a ej22 in a gl/loyale?

I recently put 2006 wrx brake calipers all around on my 1991 legacy turbo using kartboys adapter brackets in the rear. Things are well with the brakes! Once it got cold I ordered some offset wheels and snow tires(205/55 16). They are great! Then one day I heard an awful noise from the right rear. It only happens when I turn left or hit a bump. It sounded like metal on metal but I thought there was a bunch of ice in my wheel well. Once it thawed I noticed that there was no ice in there but I was still hearing the noise on both sides in the back now. I first was blaming the bolts on the kartboy brackets as I had read here that someone had problems with the bolts actually touching the rotors around corners. I even convinced myself that I could see a mark on the rotor. Now I am realizing that the snow tires are rubbing the wheel wells in the back. But they weren't for the first few weeks. So I ask "are my kyb agx blown again?" or does someone have a better answer before I disassemble my struts? Thanks for reading my long question. I just thought that I would put out as much info as possible to cut out the "what about this? what about that?" But if you have a question like that to help me narrow it down please do so! Thanks again isleymerl

I have polished with Plasticx, sanded with 1000 grit, and polished again. It works for a while then comes back. Im sure somebody has a better way.

haveing problems with code 35 and determing if it as any thing to do with my idle problem, dies when first started unless i gas it .

I am not finding it in my book. Maybe I have chiltons syndrome? I just can't seem to find it.

Hey, thanks for the respose and diagram. I was hoping that there was an easy common fix even though I know that it's not a common problem. Well I'll get into it when I get a chance (I do have a multimeter thanks). Isleymerl

My brother has a '91 legacy and has had headlight problems for years. I have 2 '91's and have had no problems. He says that now when he drives at night and someone is behind him all he can see is his own shadow in front of him. One person helped by spraying electroconductive gel in the connectors which only lasted a while. I am just beginning to think that the connectors and wiring may need to be replaced?:-\

I am indeed swapping to the td04 and vf 22 neither of which have the 90. As for making an elbow would it be more efficient to make it straight?

I have an '88 rx and a '91 legacy turbo. I am chnging the rx turbo to a Td04 and the legacy to a vf22. As you may know the older IHI turbos had a bolt on 90 degree pipe that bolted onto the intake of the turbo and then went up to meet the intake. The Td04 and vf22 do not have this 90 pipe. I have not seen how people are adapting these though I know that it is being done. Do I need different intake manifolds? I have been told that I need the intake spider from an xt4 turbo for the rx and the intake and heads from an 02 wrx and then of course the crank from an sti for the legacy. I still might do all of this but in its time. So for now I just need a convenient connector piece to go from the turbo inlet to the maf. The rx's Td04 is tight behind the block. Thanks for looking