mountaingoatgruff

put a multimeter on those wires, one at a time with the ignition in run to see where the juice for the coil is.

on my 93 impreza the check connectors are bundled behind the instrument panel. i have to go up from below the dash and they're on the pass side of the steering column up inside there. two greens, two blacks, and one gold (for select monitor) just like legacies. good question, nipper. aren't 95's liable to be either?

its a 90's legacy. with any ej series awd trans and any ej engine there's no need for a spacer/adapter (check torque converter seating or clutch disc alignment as previously noted). also, if it's an auto and you're going to a larger torque converter than the engine originally had, you'll probably have to swap the flexplate. the adapters are for bolting ej engines to ea series transmissions, particularly the d/r 4wd 5speed which has an input shaft that measures about 1/2" longer than an awd 5speed.

i think the two seals you're talking about are the 1" - 1.25" plugs with circlips locking them in place - top one's horizontal on top pass front of trans case, the other is vertical about 6" directly below. those are simple plugs, there's nothing held in by them and they're just locked in place with the clips. get the clip out with lockring pliers, tap one side to turn it, grab and yank with pliers (just be damn sure you don't gouge the aluminum bore). should be able to get the seals for a couple bucks, the bear will be getting tools in there. pull the torque strut and rear driveline out then just unbolt the rear crossmember and lower it all down with a jack under the rear of the trans. of course, if they seem to have quit leaking now that the atf is at the proper level you can just keep an eye on them to make sure they don't continue leaking slowly and if they're legit just leave them. with enough pressure to spring external leaks i'd also keep a close eye on the front pinion seals! check the front diff oil for atf contamination regularly. other than that you said its not slipping so if anything, running the extra 5qts of atf probably just cleaned the snot outta that trans!

measuring to thousandths of an inch is much more accurate than to thenths of a mm, i'll have to go back and do it that way myself with my nicer dial caliper (the digital one is harbor freight chinese crap). i seem to remember doing that when i first got brian's swaybar and noticing about .010 difference, but its hazy. i'll check back with my measurements in thousandths.

a variable resistor is a pretty stinkin good idea! i already started on my other idea of putting a bung for the EA81 sensor on the EJ22 coolant crossover, i guess i like playing with the dremel in aluminum. i snagged a crossover for $5 at the jy. i already cut a "bung" out of where the cts threaded into the old carby manifold of my hatch, i just need to drill it for the bung (under where the p/s pump would've been and about an inch behind where the hose comes to, it'll be much easier to access right there than tucked under the back of the intake) and then all i've got left is to have my radiator guy weld it up for me. i'll post pics when it's done.

i measured using a digital caliper and got no overall difference. both turbo and n/a bars measured between 22.2mm and 22.6mm depending on where i took the measurements. i cleaned the crud off and took multiple measurements on each of 2 n/a bars and the turbo bar i got from monstaru (that was a turbo bar, right? i'm just kidding, brian!).

fwiw, my hatch did this, too. EA81 running SPFI (computer advance), d/r 4speed, no air injection system, functional egr, 2 cats, no muffler it would pop like a firecracker shifting cold, but only between 1st & 2nd and sometimes 2nd & 3rd after it warmed up. it did it pretty consistently while engine braking. this is past tense cuz the hatch is getting an EJ22 & d/r 5speed as soon as i get caught up with my sidework (gotta pay the bills somehow). almost all the parts are sitting in the garage waiting! phizinza, you said that you've seen an MPFI EJ backfire like this? was it completely stock, especially exhaust?

in the 5 or so times i've pulled and intalled my 93 imp's 4eat over the last couple months, i did it through the bottom every time without thinking twice. i just disconnected everything, hooked the hoist with load leveler to the engine and unbolted the mounts (pulled the motor the first time but didn't bother after that, the load leveler makes all the difference when you go to slide the trans off the engine studs), then unbolted the trans & rear x-member and dropped it out on a 3-ton floor jack (for the bigger pad) with a 2x6 across the pan. i had one helper usually, pulled it once alone. i tried to put it in alone once but it almost slipped back off the jack into my chest as i tried to get the front to clear the engine x-member. those things are so heavy its just not safe doing it that way alone.

if it had a cable it probably wouldn't have broken:lol:

try disconnecting the speedo cable on the top pass side of the front diff and spinning it with a drill to see if the speedo reacts. there's a black cable with a black boot on a large metal fitting sticking up from the trans to the front of the diff oil dipstick (front passenger side right behind bellhousing). slide the boot up, remove the clip (find the side that's split and pull it horizontally from the other side. don't loose or mangle it), then slide the cable up out of the metal fitting. without pulling on the cable, put a drill on the square shank (don't tighten the chuck enough to damage it, just enough that it doesn't slip) and see if the speedo needle moves while spinning the cable - you'll need a helper. if it does, the problem is likely in the front diff section of the trans. if it doesn't the problem is either the cable or the speedo head. you can pull the cable out of the sleeve to check for breakage. and like nipper said, the odd shifting is because of the speed sensor (number 2, no speedo wouldn't necessarily mean vss1 isn't working) - without it's input the tcm gets wacky.

i haven't forgotten at all, the government's track record has been in the forefront of my mind for quite some time now. for those who haven't noticed - i pay close attention to politics and have a keen interest in living up to my constitutional obligations as a citizen for the sake of my son's future. as the founding fathers put it: "All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent." and "Every government degenerates when trusted to the rulers of the people alone. The people themselves are its only safe depositories." -Thomas Jefferson "Any society that would give up liberty to gain security deserves neither and will surely lose both." -Benjamin Franklin its not coming round again because it never went anywhere to begin with, the gov't plan to usurp the power of the people by slowly eroding contitutional conformity has been in place for almost as long as the very constitution they seek to undermine. but getting back on topic - how 'bout that dealership's contact info, subeeted? i'd be happy to call and ask for the code their salesman refered to!!

i sent you a pm.

which is exactly why i would want outside evidence, the code for the law/regulation. if he's citing a gov't regulation there would be record of this regulation in the database of whatever gov't agency allegedly imposed the regulation and you could easily find it or debunk it by looking up the code number. of course i wouldn't bother asking for paper proof from the dealership - get a code number, its that simple. this whole thing is quite black and white once you pursue the truth from the third party and i can't figure out why eveyone is ranting about salesmen's ethics when it would be so easy to legitimately validate or (most likely) debunk his words. however unlikely it appears in this scenario, if the gov't really does impose a cost cap that's yet another severe violation of the almost forgotten Constitution of the United States and that's the only important issue here! the Constitution does not grant the gov't authority to interfere with free-market operation this way and its the duty of every American citizen to make sure they dont, including debunking rumors of such market abuses to be sure. what's the name & location of this dealership and who was the salesman that made this claim? got a phone #?

i just figured out why that page makes no sense - it's for a turbo car, you can see the intercooler and such in the top pic. my impreza is an L wagon with n/a EJ18. those pdftown links still aren't working for me, is there a page on there for n/a models?

that's the first time i've seen that page of the fsm. i use my ssm to give a readout of the signal voltage but i'm not sure if i'm using mode f10. probably just refers to the tps voltage readout screen - i'd have to look at it again. the 93 tps gave 0.45V closed before i removed it and the 95 gave 0.9V before i messed with it. this page kinda muddied the water for me...doesn't make sense. the ssm shows atf temp and what gear the trans is in and its definitely downshifting from 4th to 3rd. also, it goes into 4th cold.

so i removed the tps from the tb and cleaned it really well with lubricating contact cleaner from radio shack. i sprayed it, then rotated the internals back and forth a few times, then blew it out with compressed air at 40psi, and repeated a few times. i did notice some grime came out the first couple times. also, i tried to mark the loactions of the screws on the mounting flanges before removing so i could eyeball it while reinstalling. i checked the voltage before test driving and it was 1.02V closed sweeping smoothly to 4.89V wot. test drive seemed better. it didn't cycle up and down through the gears for a couple minutes but when it did it was only dropping from 4th to 3rd on occasion. i could cruise with my foot steady and it would downshift out of nowhere, but like i said it wasn't doing it that much. also, the shifts are smooth and it doesn't rev freely at all anymore - not even on modest throttle downshifts. well, i thought maybe it was because the voltage signal of the tps was a bit high so i adjusted it to put out 0.67V closed. while test driving, though, the trans didn't want to shift at all! it would stay in 1st revving all the way to 4k (as far as i felt like going) and only upshifted after i closed the throttle all the way, didn't shift by feathering the gas. this is pretty much why i hesitated to remove the tps, but the good news is it didn't seem to have the voltage spiking issue. there was no down-up-down-up shifting like before and the tps voltage was steady while i was watching it. i need to test drive it some more with a passenger watching the monitor to verify that the voltage spiking is cured, but it seems to be. good call, presslab! so i tried looking around online for adjustment specs and found a nasioc post where a guy said to adjust a 99 model (not sure if that's a 3 or 4 wire type, or even if it was n/a or turbo) by unplugging the ecm then rotating the tps so that it puts out between 0.45V and 0.55V closed. my book for legacy's says to adjust a 3 wire tps so that it gives from 0.5V to 1V closed and then verify that it gives from 4.5V to 5V at wot, it makes no mention of unplugging the ecm. hopefully my problem now is just getting my tps properly adjusted. yohy said he'd put a pdf fsm on cd in the mail for me so if i can't figure it out by then i can look it up when i gets here (thanks again, yohy!). also, i have been running the tcm from the 95 impreza i got the tps from but my ssm started getting pissy about communicating with it through a 93 harness (kept saying error code 1, which i've learned means its not interfacing). i put the 93 tcm back in and it threw a tps code immediately where the 95 didn't. the trans acts about the same with both, i just thought it was odd that the 95 doesn't kick the code out and the 93 consistenly does. at that time the tps was at 1.8V closed. i adjusted it to be 0.8V closed and the code went away (using the 93 tcm) but it still didn't want to shift at all. and that's where i gave up for the night...again.

that would've immediately perked my interest if i were standing there. i would definitely have politely demanded to see proof. without proof one way or the other, its impossible to determine if its true. the gov't has been doing truely stupid and counterintuitive things for a long time now, and obviously (read: intentionally) at the expense of constitutional free-market capitalism... and i'll stop myself there before i get another of my posts deleted.

interesting site, i'll have to do some reading there. this makes sense once you consider that vss1 is running off the outer hub of the transfer clutch. this hub is linked to the rear wheels and will spin in relation to rear wheel speed. vss2 is running off the speedo head, which in turn is running off the front diff so its linked to the front wheels and reports front wheel speed. the sole purpose of vss1 is to report speed differences between the front and rear wheels for the awd control system, so it would follow that there should be a difference to report. now that you put it that way i'm reminded of my old fender amp. it was a nice unit louder than hell, but older than me! the volume and tone knobs were both so trashed that i had to turn the volume on my guitar all the way down to change the settings on either knob otherwise it would make scratching noise so loud i feared for the welfare of my speakers. so yeah - i'll definitely try cleaning that tps after swinging by radio shack this afternoon.

that's what i figured but i wanted to make sure.

i had this happen once in the multiple times i installed the trans in my impreza, everything seemed right but there was pressure on the flexplate after bolting it together. i just pulled the motor and started over. i still don't know what it was but everything went in nicely on the second try. good luck, man. a lot of us are in the same boat - i'm trying to do sidework when i have time to make ends meet cuz unemployment barely covers my rent...

i bought a 93 impreza l wagon a couple months ago: EJ18, 4EAT, AWD, 231k miles so far i've replaced the front axles and wheel bearings, replaced lower ball joints, replaced the radiator, swapped new tires from another car, redid the tweeker stereo install (came with pioneer deck and decent kenwood speakers all the way around), shampooed the seats and washed all the plastic trim, did a full tune up, rebuilt the trans, replaced the throttle body and replaced the tcm and the trans still isn't working right. also, it needs a front pass door eventually (cosmetic). other than that its in great shape. i paid $800 for the car after tax/dmv fees so i'd say you're doin alright! older impreza wagons are hard to find around here though and when you see them they're not cheap. i don't know what your market is like. ...oh, and my dash lights don't work either.

its 1mph at all speeds that was able to check it (i was driving in the dark looking back and forth from the dash to the monitor). i have a subaru select monitor that gives the mph and kph readings for each speed sensor, 4 readings in all. while driving the car with the monitor hooked up, i verified that vss2 matches the speedo (of course, they're essentially the same unit driven as you say by the nylon gears on the front diff). vss1 gives a consistent 1mph difference at all speeds above a few mph. the tps is from the same jy 95 impreza the tcm came from, about 140k miles on that car. i swapped the entire throttle bodies and i cleaned the snot outta the 95 before installing it, it was quite filthy. i used brake cleaner and a rag, mostly focusing on the tb itself and i avouded getting brake cleaner in the tps. are you suggesting i remove the tps to clean it with contact cleaner? will i need to adjust it after that? i have contact cleaner already but i don't have adjustment specs for the tps so i've tried to avoid removing it. do you think that simply being dirty would cause the voltage of the signal wire to spike? like i said above, i use my select monitor to get these readings. it shows the voltage from the signal wire of the tps and i've watched it spike as the car downshifts and drop as it upshifts - back and forth usually pretty quickly. that's the only way i was able to get this far. i have two complete tb's now so i'll try removing and cleaning the tps on one to see what happens. replacing the tcm eliminated the neutralizing so it would seem there was some sort of deficiency there. the trans and a/t control system of this car were completely skrewd when i got it, rebuilding the trans just pointed out all the other problems - if only i had known it was going to be like this...

a 90 legacy should have the manual mode button right below the shifter release button, correct? otherwise its a 1-hold button somewhere on the shifter. either way, there's a button on the shifter besides the one you use to release the knob while shifting and that's the one you switch on and off to flash codes. to flash the current codes: 1. put the car in D with the engine off and push the manual button. put the ignition switch to the on position without starting the engine. verify that the "POWER" light and "MANUAL" light are both on. if they're not both on, check the bulbs. if they're both on proceed. 2. leaving the key in the on position, move the shifter to 3 then turn off the manual button. 3. move the shifter to 2 then turn the manual button back on. the "MANUAL" light should come on again, the "POWER" light should be on still. 4. move the shifter to 1 then turn the manual button back off. press the gass pedal half way down. the "POWER" light, which should have been on this whole time, should either flash quickly and constantly showing no codes to be read or it will flash a code with the long flashes representing the first digit and the short flashes being the second digit. to flash stored codes you follow the same procedure except you start with the shifter in 1 for the first step and end in D. i know wtdash provided a link for instructions but sometimes a different wording can show me what i did wrong. you only need to read the codes if theres codes to be read. the "POWER" light should come on when you start the car and go out a few seconds after that in normal operation. if it blinks 16 times after starting, there's an electrical fault in the a/t control system and a code in there waiting to be read. hope this helps nate

just wondering... when i got the impreza, it had bad tires - 185/70's on the front, 175/80's on the back (iirc, i know they were different sizes front to rear). i swapped over the tires from the totalled legacy before the wrecker came for it, brand new 185/70's. both cars had 14" steel rims but stock size for the impreza is 175 while stock size for the legacy (what's on the impreza right now) is 185. i noticed on my select monitor that the vss1 is reading one mph faster than the vss2. could this be because of the increased tire size and will this cause issues? if so, can i resolve the issue by using a legacy vss1 (i don't know if they're the same). i very much doubt it's related to the problems i'm having but i just want to make sure it won't cause issues down the road. as far as fixing what's wrong right now, the voltage signal from the tps is spiking while driving. i replaced the tcm with a 95 impreza unit and the vss1 with a used but working one. the neutralizing is gone but while driving, the tps voltage spikes causing the trans to downshift then upshift back and forth. i have verified the operation of the tps multiple times and its exactly what it should be. i think this has to be a crushed/shorting pair of wires or something of that nature. i'm waiting on motivation to tear the harness apart to find the culprit...