mountaingoatgruff

i spent some time messing with this before. i just replaced the original hitachi solenoid with a newer nippondenso one. and you don't even need limit your search to 80's toyotas and hondas. subaru uses the nippondenso solenoids in new gen cars so you can get them from any impreza or legacy.

if you suspect the fuel, try using another brand for a bit and see if it changes anything. i have a close friend that works as an environmental auditor for gas stations and he's told me to avoid arco/bp fuel and that shell is just as good as chevron. i still buy the cheapo arco stuff... then there's all that logical stuff to check: engine maintenance, fuel filter, tires, etc.

i put a 92 EJ22 in a 96 OBW that had an EJ25 with bad hg's some months ago. its pretty straightforward once you get into it and gary already pretty much covered your compatability issues. i'd only add that you'll probably have to use all the accessory brackets from the 2.5 to bolt up the a/c comp and p/s pump and when i did it, i ran the 2.2 with the 2.5 harness and ecm. it had a cel for the egr system because the 2.2 was non-egr going into an egr-equipped car but your 96 2.2 probably has an egr and if so you should have no issues there. once it was done, the owner of the car didn't even notice the power loss going from the 2.5 to the 2.2 but he said he did notice a bit better highway mileage (which i think was mostly from the other maintenance stuff i did along with the swap). swapping in the 2.2 would be ridiculously cheaper than fixing the 2.5 if there's internal damage and you've already got your donor parts.

sweet! i don't know how you got it to work but you've got a pm. thanks nate

quick google search on a leak down test came back with this: http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/leaktst.htm if this were my engine, i'd just pull the heads. on an interference engine (like the DOHC EJ25) the valves and/or pistons can be damaged just by trying to put it in #1 tdc without the t-belt properly installed. if you go crankin it around without a t-belt on you may make things worse. also, does it have enough miles to warrant a head gasket job anyways? (apparently that'd be close to 100k or more.) you can bet you'll have to pull the heads to fix this anyways, do it now and save some hassle. that's my .02

i couldn't find a dave1rr in the members directory.

its still not working for me. download says info can't be found and mirror will start to download then stop before reaching 1meg and window shows/does nothing.

its not working for me, download or mirror. tried "save target as" and that didn't work either. looks like the info has been removed.

i'm mostly looking for a pinout for the tcm. nobody has it?

yeah, that's exactly what it does. the engine revs freely for a few seconds and then it grabs again, sometimes its more than a few seconds. also, sometimes it works fine and sometimes it does this - but if you ride her hard the shifts are almost always just fine. i haven't tried unplugging the tcm/tcu or the trans itself as gary suggests. i put it in fwd mode last light while checking different things. vss1 is apparently toast but the tps is working well. this has got to be either a wiring harness fault (hence my request for diagrams) or the tcm itself. i was a machine operator at a non-union plant making $19.80/hr and now i've got my fingers crossed hoping for a $12/hr job that i won't hear back from till jan...

trying to exorcise an electrical gremlin so i need the trans wiring diagrams from a 93 impreza fsm. i need to know the pinout of the tcm, wire colors and routing for inputs/outputs, and what kind of flowers they like...

...but that answer didn't help. i'm trying to determine what's wrong but this car is really pissing me off - i don't have the patience or the money right now. at least i have the time though, been laid off for a month now. the car runs fine and all except it shifts into 2nd late and neutralizes when it should be shifting into 3rd. trans is completely rebuilt: all new clutches (friction and steel plates, including mpt clutch), new 2-4 band, reman'ed torque converter, fresh fluid at proper level, new line pressure and transfer solenoids, new inner hub for transfer clutch, new atf strainer, and even a brand spankin new pan. in all, over $2000 for those who are wondering - buy a used or reman'ed... or even better, buy a m/t car! i've checked the wiring and connectors and i can't find anything wrong in the harness anywhere. i had a tcm code 31 for tps. replaced the whole throttle body with a matching one from a jy without disturbing the tps so i wouldn't need to worry about adjustment. old tps had a voltage signal from about ~0.5V to ~4.5V, idle to wot. replacement has a voltage signal of ~1V to ~5V. i installed the replacement tb, cleared the code, then started the car. now its giving me a code 32 for vss1 and even after clearing the codes with my ssm, it still shows both codes 31 and 32 stored in the memory. does the tcm usually give one code at a time even if there's multiple faults? is disconnecting the battery for a few hours enough to clear all codes 100%? how am i supposed to tell if the tps is working properly? since the vss1 is for the awd system, if i put the fwd fuse in shouldn't the tcm disregard it's input (so i can rule out that being my shifting problem)? i wish my hatch were done already. i hate automatics, especially 4EAT's. i'm seriously about to wrap this damn pos around a tree.

i feel your pain/anger, i've got over $2000 into the trans of my 93 imp and over 60hrs of labor but its still not right. i'm chasing parts now to try to correct tcm input faults... its not subaru's fault that their parts are so ridiculously expensive... just don't buy another used subaru automatic, i know i never will!!

i'd recommend that you keep checking the fluid level until you get the same reading over and over. if your readings vary its because they're not properly performed or inaccurate for some other reason. like nipper said, 4EAT's are little sissies about fluid level and i've noticed mine is picky about fluid quality even among new fluids by brands. it hates walmart's supertech atf with a passion but loves valvoline's dexron IV. as far as the torque converter is concerned, if it doesn't turn freely AFTER the engine and trans are all bolted together, its not in far enough. its that simple. any pressure between the flexplate and tq converter while installing is bad, mmkay? i've noticed that it helps to throw a rag over the splines of the input shaft (to prevent damage) and wiggle the sucker around with channel locks or something while pushing back (don't go overboard). if the input shaft isn't seated the tc will never seat. the tip of the input shaft should be about a 1/4" behind the trans mating surface and the tc's flexplate mating surfaces should be about 3/16" - 1/4" in front of the trans mating surface. 5/16" out is where mine develops pressure. ...and pull your tcm codes!

i found my answer off-site. thanks

i want some phosphorescent tires!!! that pic looks a bit doctored...

fwiw, i slotted the lower bolt hole of the EA82 coil bracket and was able to mount it where the original coil was located so it would be close enough that i could use my regular EA81 wire set. i don't know if that helps since your brat's lifted, though.

i don't know if this has enough detail or the right angle for what you need but its what i've got. its a solid lifter block.

the pic in post 15 shows a coilpack with male terminals, the old wires are proper female cable ends and the new wire is a male cable end (disregard the rubber boot, the terminal is supposed to clip inside the coil terminal). entirely a question of male/female. exchange your new cables. my 93 imp 1.8 and 95 leg 2.2 are female coil/male cables while my 97 2.2 is the opposite - male coil/female cables. the 93 1.8 runs fine with generics for now, the 95 2.2 is in non-running project status and the 97 2.2 ran like crap with new bosch's but ran great after switching to magnecor 8.5mm cables (its also in non-running project status for now). also, since you've got a male coil, you want the 90deg boots for cylinders 2 & 4 like your original wires otherwise they ride against the throttle & cc cables.

i had to deal with this same issue on my 84 hatch. i ended up replacing the head since the stud had been repaired once before then wrenched sideways again and the metal was splitting around the opening. after comparing the direction of the metal distortion to the drag marks on the oil pan, it was apparent someone was dragging the engine on the pan and caught the stud on something. either way, the helicoil was skrewed. first time i started loosening up the exhaust fasteners on that side, the stud just fell out with the nut on it before i touched it! it may be that 70's/80's german alloys were better than japanese alloys of the same timeframe (i'm no alchemist) but i don't know that this scenario is caused by the quality of the metal so much as what the metal is put through...i mean, is the head with the screwed up stud from the engine in the wagon in your avatar? i'd recommend replacing the head if you can, once the original integrity of the metal is gone its hard to get it back.

i'll have to check my rad to see if it has a spot for the cts, if not i'm thinking about trying to mount a cts right behind the hose on the coolant crossover that bolts to the top of the block. i'm not running p/s and i'll be swapping intakes already, won't be much more trouble to swap that out. i'll use a jy spare to hack up in case it goes over like t-bone flavored ice cream. i'll drill the hole then have my radiator guy braze a bung onto it, he does occasional al repairs. good catch on the driveshaft length, pooparu. the reason i'm having mine shortened though is because when i bought my brat it had an ej22, d/r 5speed and lengthened driveshaft in it already. i called around and to have my hatch's driveshaft lengthened would be around $250 because of the price of tubing but to have the brat's chopped down & rebalanced for the shorter wheelbase of the hatch is only $80 in labor and i can just get a 2-piece from an EA82 wagon for the brat down the road. how do you like the power and mileage, pooparu?

for what its worth, i tried seeing if i could put the outlet cooler line into an empty bucket and the inlet into a bucket of fresh atf in the hope that it would simply circulate the fluid by normal pump operation and it doesn't work. there wasn't enough pumping action to draw the new atf up the line from the bucket at all. i did get an unintended chance to try Gloyale's method though, and it ended up working out well enough.

thanks, Jeff. looks like eveything i've got is EA82 stuff but its definitely all compatible.

okay, i've the first and third figured out, but i'm still wondering about the second. has anyone gotten their EA81 temp gauge to read properly by adding a 275ohm resistor the way Numbchux' pdf suggests? i figure i'll try it myself (if i go through with this swap) but i'd like to know if someone can tell me i'm wasting my time there.

how would i measure the stepping distance? this is what i have, i'm pretty sure its all EA82 parts: and the redrilled flywheel this adapter plate is the only one of these parts i'm hesitant to use. it has only one set of holes for alignment dowels and they're oversized at that. looks like an early design or something. can anyone recommend a good adapter plate for a guy on a tight budget?