mountaingoatgruff

i was originally going to go with this blue theme but i didn't like it as much as i thought i would and i ended up going with black: when i was replacing the heads, of course: and some gratuitous hatch backside:

lest anyone should insist my passages are clogged: this is what it looked like before i removed the final couple a/c parts late this last summer (note the bird's nest of a/c wiring by the pass strut tower and the a/c compressor bracket): my ea81 with the rebuilt heads, almost ready to go back in (that's a polyhead 318 in the upper left corner):

how can i tell the difference between an EA82 clutch and an XT6 clutch and are the bearings the same?

anyone know how to use one? i have access to an old one and a cartridge that will communicate with the spfi system in my hatch, but the owner doesn't remember the details of how to use it. the obvious things are easy of course, but i don't understand the letter/number screens (do they represent wiring & connectors?) and i don't know what the light up numbers below the screen are for. also, i don't know if there's any more functions than just plugging in and turning on. or would this be better to ask in the new gen forum?

yes

i removed the entire air suction system when i installed the spfi system. the hatch is supposed to smog to the requirements of a 92 loyale, which has no air suction system. do ea82's run cleaner or something?!?

it has an oem t-stat, would that be a 190/195? when i pulled the a/c system out i wired the second fan to a relay controlled by a switch on the dash and i make sure to flip it on every time. i don't think my throttle body has an idle mix screw, the EA81 has been retrofitted to SPFI.

they do check the timing each test and they allow 2deg's of tolerance so i've been setting it at 18deg when i go in to test. they don't check the gas but i tried an additive my dad suggested this last time, coleman liquid camp fuel. he was sure it'd do the trick. where would one find xylene? the egr passages don't look to be much different in size than those of ej engines, at least not proportionally. i'm not sure i'm interested in going through that kinda work at this point. i'm trying to come up with a good estimate of how much it'd cost me to ej it. biggest hurdle is the added cost of the 5speed swap, but it'd be pointless to ej it then be dead in the water with a blown up 4speed. if i'd have known i was going to have to go through this i'd have dropped an obd2 ej22 in there to begin with...for as much as i've spent on this spfi i could have been done with the ej and 5speed months ago!!

as far as running lean, i'm not sure how i'd test for that short of installing an air/fuel mix system. it has plenty of power and gets an average of 28-32mpg, depending on how/where i drive. my dad said before i replaced the cat that it smelled a tad rich as i pulled into his driveway after driving across town but the new cat cleaned it up noticeably. i went over the book the ref had and it said i needed 8inches of vac. i threw a vac gauge on it and it's got over 10inches off idle. the diaphragm of the egr valve itself opens an easy 1/8" and it's brand new. the passages in both the head and the manifold were cleaned thoroughly and blasted with compressed air before assembly. the first pipe i had (between head and manifold) was crushed a bit because the tweeker that pulled the parts for the jy i got the stuff from did a crappy job so i got another one from a self-service yard, cleaned with chemdip and then degreaser, blasted with compressed air and installed carefully. i've checked the egr's operation multiple times as have my dad (mechanic for 25+ years) and the smog ref and none of us have seen it fail to open since i replaced the solenoid and valve. the only egr system "malfunction" i have noticed is that the ecu doesn't wait to open it until the engine is warm. i can start it up dead cold at 50deg outside temp, run around to the engine bay, blip the throttle and it opens like normal, which i think is part of why it runs crappy cold. the solenoid isn't stuck open, i've lost count of how many times i've tested it and verified that the ecu is indeed sending the signal with the engine dead cold. i've gone out first thing on a cold morning, put the ignition in run without starting and the ecu is sending 12V to the solenoid. also, its like that with both of the ecu's i have, a black 89 and a silver 92. if i were confident that bypassing the solenoid would fix it, i would be willing to try that but its $40 each time i take it in, i have to schedule 2 weeks in advance and i can't even take it in for a "pre-test" because my paperwork is plastered with "DO NOT TEST OR ISSUE CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE, REFER TO B.A.R. REFEREE." my regular smog guy even asked about it last week when i brought my wife's impreza in and needless to say, he was baffled. sorry for typing a novel but if you or anyone else can figure this thing out in the details that's a lot cheaper than dropping the ej in there. i'm gonna go ahead and bypass the solenoid just to see what happens in my driveway. i doubt i would notice if it changes anything since everything seems fine by each method of testing available to me but i'll update when i've done it. thanks nate

some of you may have read my thread in old soobs about my smog issues with the SPFI setup i installed. well, i'm pretty sure i'm just going to drop the 2.2 into it and call it good. so, i've been reading the writeup pdf, threads and answers in preparation. here are the initial questions i haven't found solid answers for, i s'pose i could search more but i've got an appointment at 7 tonight. i'll be using a 95 EJ22 with it's OBD II harness and an 89 D/R 5MT. first, for running the D/R 5MT i want to use an XT6 pressure plate with an EA82 flywheel and clutch disc. which pilot and t/o bearings should i use, EA82 for both i'd assume? second, has anyone gotten their EA81 temp gauge to work by wiring in a resistor? third, if i can't afford to drop the 5MT in at the same time (because of the driveshaft shortening) what do i need to change on my clutch setup? from what i've read i'd only need to come up with the EA82 flywheel, XT6 pp and 85 Nissan 720 pickup t/o bearing and i could reuse the EA81 clutch disc but would i use an EA81 or EA82 pilot bearing? also, does anyone have a part # for the Nissan t/o bearing?

i was planning on moving to co until i got laid off recently and with the recession, i'm having a nightmare of a time finding work. another of the reasons why i can't keep dumping money into this thing. i have the ej, adaper plate, clutch setup and trans for d/r 5speed swap, wiring harness, aftermarket fan for front-mount on rad, ej y-pipe/O2's/cats (stuff was meant for my brat, but that's not gonna happen anytime soon) and i'm trying to figure out how much more i'll need to get the swap done. i know i'll need driveshaft and exhaust work, rad hoses, engine tune-up parts and fluids. i've also left jerry hanging on getting one of his x-member kits for a while now. at least the car already has a fuel injection pump... i'm wondering if i can toss the ej in there and wait on swapping the d/r 5. my d/r 4speed is pretty shot - grinds into 2nd, pops out of 4th and the front diff sounds pretty nasty untill it warms up. i wonder how long it would take the ej to squeeze the rest of it's life out of it.

if it were me, i'd be curb checkin that sob by now...

after countless hours and more money than i care to count, my SPFI hatch has failed smog four times. the third time it failed i spent $200 to replace the y-pipe/front cat and $90 on an oem O2 sensor. i told myself that if that didn't fix it i would tear the whole system and EA81 out and drop an EJ22 in there. well, another $300 later it failed again. the numbers: 15mph test: CO2: 15.4% 02: 0.0% HC: max 127ppm, measured 35ppm CO: max 0.79%, measured 0.02% NO: max 825ppm, measured 820ppm 25mph test: CO2: 15.2% O2: 0.1% HC: max 101ppm, measured 16ppm CO: max 0.68%, measured 0.01% NO: max 764ppm, measured 1558ppm everything is beautiful but the NO, and i've searched high and low for a cause. i can't find a vac leak, tried shorter (cooler) plugs, timing is dead on, and literally everything is either brand new, recently rebuilt or tested to be working properly. most of the replacement parts are oem, too. the car runs great, stronger than ever, gets an easy 30mpg and that's the part that adds injury to insult. i'm at a loss here and i don't want to continue dumping money into it. i'm still open to suggestions if any of you guys have ideas, but i've got the parts to put the 2.2 in there so if i can't get it figured out soon that's what i'm going to do.

i put 5.25" speakers in the rear of my 84 hatch. all i had to do was drill new holes and then i ran the screws through a washer, through the sheetmetal, through a stack of washers (to lower the speaker and clear the smaller hole), through the speaker, then through another washer and finally two nuts (the second is to lock them together and prevent loosening with vibration - i used a bit of threadlocker, too). eventually i'd like to open up the hole in the sheetmetal but i had no depth issues even after spacing them down from the sheetmetal. once i get the deck installed i can let you know how they sound...

so how about procedue and specs for adjusting the tps? anyone with an fsm care to share? checked the wiring and its all good. cleaned each connector, too. i think mine is bad but i'd really like to try resetting the adjustment first. thanks

from what i've seen, they only used al t-stat housings till 92, all the 93's and up i've seen are plastic. also, from what i've seen gen 1's have cast iron acc brackets and gen 2's have al acc brackets. the 95 2.2 i'm prepping for an ej swap has an al t-stat housing from a 90 leg and al brackets off a 97 leg with the extra metal for the p/s pump and a/c comp cut off. i haven't decided if i want to use the early recurve intake or straighter 97 intake. i remember reading when i was a building mopars that longer intake runners give a better torque curve but i think since the fuel and air are mixed at the port of the head on mpfi ej's it doesn't matter...besides, i like how the straighter manifold looks. that'd be a fat curly one. that atf sure expands when its good and hot. i need to drain and refill again anyways so i'm waiting for it to cool down.

nah, there's no mixing of atf & coolant and no leaks. rad is brand new, installed yesterday and all atf and rad hoses are brand new, too. i also pirated the new oem t-stat, seal and al housing off the 2.2 i have collecting dust (i toss every plastic t-stat housing i get and find al ones to replace them from the first couple years of leg's). i just drained the pan and changed about 5qts of the atf and the level is a pube hair above the hot full mark with the trans hot. capacity for the original configuration is 8.4qts but i've got a 2.5 tc in there and the capacity for the car it came out of was 10qts, so i changed about half the fluid. there's definitely a noticeable difference, engages R and D with less delay and almost no harshness, shifts are smooth without that slipping. i still need to drain & fill again but at least i know its pretty much fixed. the atf/petro jelly cocktail was even foamy as it drained, and i barely ran the car enough to move it into the garage. i don't think the problem was so much the fact that we used the pj, just how liberal we were with it. now all i've got left to do with this car is another drain/refill of atf, figure out tcu code 31 (haven't checked connectors yet), replace rear diff oil, reinstall all the plastic trim inside (cleaned that sucker right!! i even shampooed the seats), replace bulbs throughout int & ext, get 4 wheel alignment, replace pass front door, install fog lamps, visit dmv for tags, and eventually give it the rattlecan treatment... we knew it was a fixer-upper though.

i know foaming is bad, its now affecting how the trans shifts, it was shifting fine and now its revving up between shifts and engaging hard. new atf strainer and o-ring, seated just fine when i installed it. i'm pretty sure there's not too much fluid but i'm about to change it right now so i'll be sure to check carefully. i used petroleum jelly during the rebuild because that's what the atsg manual said to use. we used it on seals, bearings, bushings and the like. we soaked the friction discs of each clutch pack in atf and dumped a little extra atf in the clutch packs/geartrain as we assembled. i'm going to go change the atf and see if that helps. i'll update when i have news.

first, what causes atf foaming and will foaming cause crappy shifts? i just rebuilt the 4EAT in my wife's 93 Imp L (EJ18, 231k) and used wal-mart's supertech atf (i know, its cheap and i planned on changing it after all the bugs are worked out) and about 4 ounces of petroleum jelly (a/t assembly lube). i doubt the petro jelly would cause foaming, am i wrong? i've already got decent atf ready to go in so i'm just wondering. second, i've got a tcu code 31 for tps fault but no corresponding ecu code, anyone had this happen to them? i'm thinking i'll try cleaning the tb and adjusting the tps to fsm spec, but i don't have the fsm. anyone know the procedure/specs to do this?

sounds like maybe you're running ea82 exhaust on an ea81 - that's what i'm running but i didn't have to heat/bend anything. if that's the case ditch the spacers. otherwise, you can replace the spacers with ones that don't have the port for the air suction system or you could just plug it a number of ways with a welder - the easiest being to just cut the pipe, crimp and weld shut.

i've been searching & reading all day on how to seat those damn things. i've got a 92 legacy 4eat, 93 impreza 1.8 tc and a 97 legacy 2.2 tc, i didn't get the 92 legacy's. i can't even get the 97 to the first stopping point and the 93 goes to the last stopping point but in hours of trying, cussing, coming back later, trying again, etc... i can't get the thing to seat. i'm on the brink of some shotput action here. could it be that there's an internal difference? also, i hope it doesn't matter but the very center splined shaft in the trans popped out once. i had to pull it mostly out & turn to get it back in. the very tip sticks out maybe a 1/4" past the trans mating surface. could this be the issue or is that normal? i can't recall where it was before.

i disassembled & cleaned both switches. both look good, connectors have no corrosion but the wipers still don't work. the rear wiper/washer pump works w/ the hatch's and the front washer pump works w/ either switch. if you put the wiper switch to INT, there's no wiping and the relay still clicks about once a second. in LO & HI there's no wiping or clicking. these same syptoms are present with any combination of the 2 switches & 2 relays.

nevermind...its the switch. i forgot that there's separate connectors for the fronts & rear so i didn't think i could try the brat's switch. once i remembered i plugged it into the hatch's front connector and the wipers worked fine for a minute. i tied the brat's witch up under the dash as a temp fix then tried the wipers again to make sure and nothing. now the wipers don't work at all again and the relay just clicks on INT, nothing in other positions. it seems both switches are shot.:-\ guess i need to find another hatchback/wagon wiper switch. if anyone's got one laying around, please let me know.

the front wipers of my 84 hatch haven't worked for since before this last summer (they worked fine then) but its gettin to be time to fix it. i'm not sure if the two systems share components but the rear wiper works fine, always has. when the switch for the fronts is turned to INT, the "wiper intermittent relay" (metal cylinder about 1.5"x2") clicks about once a second and the wipers do nothing. in other positions nothing happens at all. so i went to the bin in my garage with the brat's vehicle harness and pulled the wiper relay off, same part # and everything. put it in and nothing changed. i never touched those wires in my spfi conversion or a/c delete except that i unplugged/replugged the wiper motor a couple times while fishing wires in that area. checked it and the connector/pins seem fine. fuse is good, car's never blown a fuse in my course of ownership. any ideas?