mountaingoatgruff

Thanks! I put way more into this thing than I ever should have but if my son and I get to enjoy it it'll be worth it to me. This is not really pieced together. With my ODB1 setup I had parts from upwards of 4 different donors and it was a pieced together mess. I ditched all that. Everything engine/engine management related is all from the same 97 Legacy donor now except the obvious fuel system add-ons, the 95 EJ22 intake & TB and the 93 Impreza intake tube. That's part of why I'm stumped. I didn't molest the engine portion of the harness so I don't know where to start looking for bugs in the wiring. Another part of why I'm stumped is that the engine wants to spin backwards when it fires while attempting to start. I've never seen a Subaru do that. Also, the engine cranks normally with no fuel or spark but cranks slowly and erratically with everything hooked up like the starter is having a hard time. I have verified my efi and fuel relays come on, my CEL comes on, 36psi in the fuel lines, no rag left stuffed in the TB or anything. I hear it wanting to fire..... Nobody has ever seen this before?

85 brat 97 EJ22 97 ECM/harness 95 intake and TB to eliminate EGR & associated vac lines I was having issues with my 92 OBD I harness (the engine started and ran well but I was burning out fuel pump relays and the cel light never came on, still don't understand why) so I decided to start over and go 97 OBD II since I had most of the parts already. I got it far enough to test start, fuel pump had gone out (89 SPFI fuel pump). Again, I decided to upgrade. Installed 7psi supply pump with inline prefilter, homemade surge tank, 45psi injection pump, 10m injection filter, 5/16" 30R9 hose. Before starting I primed the fuel and oil systems. Engine spun fine with injectors/ignitor unplugged. Fuel system shows 36psi at engine inlet, right on FSM spec. When I plug in the injectors and ignitor the engine seems hard to turn and sputters then when it fires it pops and seems to wants to spin back. Does not want to start. I thought timing, maybe bad CAS which were changed to OBD II style, so I replaced both the crank and cam angle sensors with spares. No effect. I'm lost and I dont have tons of time for this. I've been getting very discouraged after working for so long and still not having my EJ swap done. If anyone could help me diagnose this and get this thing running again I'd really appreciate it. I didn't touch any engine related wires in the harness except to remove the egr. I'm using the whole 97 leg harness, too - no brat wiring left. pictures: My surge tank, welded 1/8" steel Looking in driver's taillight hole, yes it barely fits. I didn't realize how large the brass fittings would end up till after welding the top and bottom. I shoulda went 10" instead of 12" tall. Grey stuff is fuel tank epoxy holding fuel temp sensor in a bung plug. Looking in rear driver's access hole. Cover panel still fits, no interference from bolt heads. Surge tank hoses go through body behind driver's step thing. 10m injection filter on homemade 2"x 3/16" angle mount Fuel lines under hood. I used the vent hardline from engine bay to under bed as my return to the surge tank and the original return line on main tank for low pressure return from surge tank.

I also need to know if both ports on the the evap air filter go to the vent control solenoid valve. I'll check it out in a jy when I go to get my evap canister but I'm trying to figure out as much as possible today/tonight to install some parts tomorrow. Its hard to position and fab mounts for everything when I don't quite have the plumbing all worked out yet.

Yeah, I'm still puttin along with my brat. I only have a few hours a week for wrenching and I've been spending it on other projects lately. Oh, and I'm starting school in a week too so that'll slow me even more. I've gotten as tired of working on this one as many others have gotten of hearing about it.... I recently went to fire it up to test my obd2 harness. No luck. Later found my fuel pump had died. I took it as an excuse to go overboard and redo the fuel system. I still need to get some evap parts but here is most of what I'm adding: Being in CA, I'll also be going to the correct obd2 evap system - pita 97 2.2 AWD with the big box canister and extra hardware that is. I think I have everything figured out except the Pressure Control Solenoid Valve. Seems from looking at the FSM one port is plumbed to the tank through the fuel cut valves. I can't figure out the other two ports. The diagrams I have show everything clearly except this so I've been guessing. Can anyone clarify this for me? Also, an explanation of exactly what it does and how would be nice. Seems it works in tandem with the fuel pressure sensor to provide fuel vapor pressure relief but I thought a standard evap system does that just by how it works.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-MM200-Ranging-Multimeter/dp/B003LCITWA I paid $45+tax at HD for this one. What a waste.

I started with a $2.99 HF special, arguably no better than a test light. Upgraded to a ~$50 HD pos Klein Tools brand - backlight went out first, after a couple months use half of the segments on the lcd went out so you can't read the numbers and last week it stopped working for a couple days then came back. I've tried changing the batteries over and over and the thing is only a few years old. Are there any solid reliable units below the three figure range?

I have the 2 volume 93 Impreza FSM in blue binders each about 4 inches thick. Both volumes are complete and clean - near mint condition. I'm trying to decide if I should sell them or pack them when I move. What are they worth?

EL is a ground, its in the wiring diagram and I verified by tracing wires. TC is illumination including dash and exterior lights as 1 Lucky Texan suggested. Brat headlights are ground switched but illumination is not. IG switch turns on two lighting relays which then transmit battery power from FL1. One lighting relay powers RH headlights through 15a fuse 9 and the dimmer switch then lighting switch transmit ground to turn on RH headlight. The other relay powers LH headlights though 15a fuse 10 (grounded same as RH to turn on) and lighting switch terminal B through 15a fuse 11. In positions I and II terminal T transmits power to parking/license/tail/certain interior lights which are all hardwired to ground and to dimmable interior lights which then ground through the rheostat to control brightness. The Legacy switches ground for all lights. To accommodate that I changed terminal B of the Brat switch to a ground and powered the lights accordingly through the Legacy harness. Then there's the parking switch. In off position the parking switch transmits Ig switched and lighting switched power from the lighting and illumination relay (FB26) to the fuse for parking/exterior lights (FB33). In on postion it transmits battery power (FB27). To delete the parking switch, string a wire between FB26 and FB33 and hack the battery murderer out of the harness. Does anyone know - in a 2nd gen Legacy when the Ig is off and parking switch is on do the license plate lights come on? Just curious

I got this much figured out for dimmer/passing switch: HF - headlight flash HU - headlight upper/high beam HL - headlight lower/low beam E - earth for lighting switch: HC - headlight circuit EL - earth TC - V1 - V2 - V3 - TC turns on the illumination circuit, V1/V2/V3 are for the illumination intensity variable resistor. Brat uses a rheostat - 2 wires Legacy uses potentiometer - 3 wires

I'd like to know if there's a way to interpret the letter designations of switch terminals in Subaru wiring diagrams. In other words, what do the "HF HU HL E" mean on the dimmer/passing switch diagram pictured below and the "HC EL TC" on the headlight switch? There must be a method to their madness. I want to learn how to understand these letter designations so I can figure out how to merge my 97 Legacy harness with my 85 Brat lighting switches. Some of the wires are easy to figure out by tracing where they go but others are not so plain.

I have what I’m pretty sure is a 3.55 clutch type LSD from a 96 SVX. Will a 93 Impreza open diff’s 4.11 r&p install into the beefier SVX unit? I know about swapping just the diff chunk for the open carrier but I want the 4.11’s in the larger unit. 96 SVX LSD diff on left, 93 Imp open on right (excuse the rainwater milkshake): difference in overall size: difference in rear cover size:

not in ca... after further reading I see this would require a standalone ecu.

Does anyone know- can a 92 EJ22 be converted to run with a MAP - no MAF?

My battery is in a box behind the passenger seat, so I don't have to worry about that. The intake tube I'm using looks about the same as yours. I've seen swaps using factory filter housings and it seems to work well. My ridiculous idea has been to find a factory filter housing out of some random jy donor to fit in the spare tire well then plumb it to the cowl for some cowl induction action but I'm worried about sucking water in the rain.

I'm not happy with my EJ swapped Brat's intake plumbing and I'm looking for ideas and more so pictures of what others have done. I have a 93 Impreza tube and a 3" K&N style filter. The tube is strapped to the strut tower by a piece of plumber's tape with heater hose sleeved over it. This setup draws hot air, flops over bumps, and looks like crap so I want to see what others with EJ swapped EA81's have done.

Mind if I ask where that HP figure comes from? I'm just curious - not about to dispute it.

Best way to weed out the junk at HF is to stay away from electric power tools and anything with too many moving parts! Seriously though, I have tons of first- and second-hand HF tools: impact wrench, die grinders, torque wrenches (in/lb & ft/lb), socket sets, drill press, bench grinder, floor jack, jack stands, cherrypicker, engine stand, and on and on I spent a couple hours last night disassembling, cleaning, lubing & reassembling my new-to-me 12 yr old HF drill press. Lots of use on this thing and it still works fine for small jobs. I admit I have a lot of down time working on tools that wouldn't be necessary with higher quality tools.

Thanks again, GD.

I've got a 35g vertical Husky compressor that needs repair. The copper line from the compressor output to the check valve on the tank originally had a rubber seal under a brass compression fitting. It disintegrated after a less than a year of hard use. The machine has been collecting dust the majority of the time I've owned it. I'm using a 12g oil-free IR unit right now...huge downgrade. I've been wondering if I could use a brass compression ring instead of the stupid rubber part to avoid future failure and if there's anything I need to know beforehand. The fitting at the top of the copper line has a brass compression ring, just wondering if there was a reason (besides cutting corners on manufacturing cost) for putting rubber on it's other end. The compressor: The output line and check valve: Don't flame me for my junk moisture separator and busted air filter housing... I know, I know...

As stated, carb cleaner does not dry residue free. The residue left behind can glaze over your brake linings and severly lower braking performance. I know because it happened after I did the brakes on my 65 A100 with carb cleaner when I was 19. I bought 4 complete sets of shoes that day....

I didn't know what size breaker to use so thanks for that comment. I've been thinking about making an extension cord, too. When I began this swap I was still on speaking terms with my father who knows a guy that welds for a living, mostly stainless for almond equipment. This guy was going to teach me how to weld but now that isn't going to happen. I don't know anyone else local that can weld, which is why I've been on my own and stalling so long. I'd have to call around and see if I can find a shop that'll look at it for me. I was using a curved zig-zag pattern at first but anything besides a relatively quick and straight zig-zag and I burn right through. I haven't tried full loops yet. I usually end up watching where I'm going because I have a tendency to stray from a linear path. I've been working on trying to hold the tip closer and go straight. Whenever I try to watch the puddle I end up burning through or curving off. Maybe I should try learning on thicker metal.

I'll be moving (to the house next door, can't wait for a 2nd bedroom for the kids) within a month so I haven't even thought much about it. Current setup is a 30amp double pole breaker feeding 10/2 Romex to two receptacles, one for the welder and the other for the dryer. I tapped into the existing line for the dryer years ago to run my compressor and only run one appliance at a time. Once I've moved I'll be able to add a dedicated circuit for the welder: 30amp double pole breaker, less than 30' of 10/3 Romex, a receptacle placed near my bench and so its kosher to NEC a grounded neutral wire. I've never used an extension cord with my compressor or welder, I only plug them directly into the receptacle. Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician and I'm not saying this is the correct way to do it.