mountaingoatgruff

way to come through, man! i've been looking into buying a 94 awd lsi with 87k on it. the guy's extended step-family to me so his "special family price" is $2300. i'm not looking for an especially fast car, i just love rare cars and performance capabilities are icing on the cake. i mean, how many 62 dart wagons do you see around? they're a one year body style and harder than hell to find parts for but knowing that i have probably the only one for miles and miles is rewarding in itself. also, the sxv was just painted black last year and is beautifull! dude's got some stupid rims on it and he kinda hacked the interior to put his thumper crap in there, but those things aren't a big deal. i'll let you guys know if i can manage to bring another one into appreciative hands.

i read some stuff online about them but i was pretty sceptical about the info sources after reading that they only came with autos, that kinda sucks. what cars can you use as donors for manual trans swaps into an awd svx?

i have a short list of questions about svx's that i hope some of you svx guys wouldn't mind answering. first of all, what known issues do these cars have - as in weak points, common faults, whatever gripes a critic would have. what tranmission/drivetrain configurations were available? were they all awd? what manual trans did they have? lsd optional? what unique options/packages were available and which options, if any, aren't worth any added cost they may bring? what kind of mileage would a well maintained, efficiency-minded modded manual trans car get? what kind of aftermarket support do they have and how hard is it to find parts for them? (replacement and performance parts) and perhaps most importantly - do they deliver? i'm not asking if the svx is the japanese ferrari, but i just want some opinions from guys that drive these cars on how they compare to other import performance cars that may be considered fit for comparison. hope that's not too much for one thread.

what kind of power output is that? right now i have three lines off my positive terminal: the starter the original fusible links the spfi fusible links i'm looking for ideas on how to distibute power under the hood. does anybody make a product for this purpose?

good to know, thanks.

wow - i don't know how i missed that! which battery did you use, as in what amp rating? the only ones in stock locally were 880/1000 amps and that seems like downright overkill. i know you're running an ej, but an ea would require about the same if not a bit less, right?

i think i'm just gonna go with an optima in th back. anybody using an optima know which one works best with an ea81? i don't really know anything about them and the local stores don't stock one that fits.

well my wife says we want to keep the a/c now - for the infant's sake. i'll have to make a whole new line between the drier and condenser. i don't think i can put the battery over there with the condenser and mount i have though, i suppose the turbos' a/c parts are different?

i didn't realize that it's okay to pull the two rocker mounting bolts like that. i don't like to step up the torque head bolts unevenly, especially on little aluminum engines, but if that's the normal procedure i'm sure its okay to do...probably better than the way i did it at least. they are felpro pt's and i made sure i torqued them so they felt the same as the others - off a bit i'm sure but it runs. should be interesting to see how it holds.

i didn't have any problem adjusting them when i replaced the heads, i was just after the novelty and convenience of specialty tools. now that i think about it, i'd really rather find a head bolt socket - it was kind of a pain trying to feel for the torque on that nut with a box end but that's all i have that would fit in there.

was there a shelf for the battery in the ea81t cars? of course, i could make one and that would probably be less work and definitely less $ than putting an optima in the back. i've already got half of the a/c tore out and i could put a smaller ea82 vapor canister somewhere else in there. i'll have look and see if i can come up with something. anybody got pics of this area of an ea81t?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-89-SUBARU-1-6-1-8-SOHC-HITACHI-Carb-Kit-Royze_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33551QQihZ019QQitemZ290070248695QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V i talked to the seller when i was looking to rebuild my carb and he says he has kits for most models and years of subaru hitachis. also, i've used niehoff, bosch, and royze kits before and royze kits usually are the most complete.

i was talking about the other little guy sitting there next to the valve tool, but i may be wrong still. is that one without handles a head bolt socket?

yeah, i thought about that earlier this morning. guess i'll be biting the bullet on that one.

i'm guess i'm going for a personal posting record today... i'm considering relocating my battery to the area behind the back seat of my hatch to make room for my air filter. i've already had to cut down the end of the rubber intake and fab up a maf adapter with a flange on the side to attach a bracket to hold it up off the fender well. i haven't made the bracket yet though cuz i don't quite have room for everything in there. i bolted my coil to the sheetmetal platform for the battery (which conveniently locates it out of the way but within reach of a stock ea81 coil wire) and i was planning on sandwiching the bottom end of the bracket between that sheetmetal and the coil mount. problem is, i'm having to bend the rubber intake way more than i want to. the bend it already has makes it go angled towards the front but i'm trying to pry it back and put the filter behind the battery. i need to come up with some way of relocating the filter, which is unlikely and will give me bad flow anyways, or i need to relocate the battery. my only concern with relocating the battery is that it will vent into the passenger compartment, two feet from my son's car seat. i really want to avoid that. so, do they make sealed battery boxes with a remote vent so i could just route a hose through the floor or something? any other ideas? please don't just say its okay to put the battery in there vented next to my son's seat, i'm not doing that whether its okay or not. edit: i just read over this and i think maybe i'll have to post some pics. they'll come tomorrow, though.

i haven't seen that style of head bolt socket but i think i'd like the hourglass style more... now if only i could find one of those, too.

i didn't want to suggest a weber swap cuz i figured cash would be the determining factor. i only did the spfi swap cuz i figured out the math and it was cheaper *in theory* than replacing the hitachi and all the various parts related to it that were toast as well... things have proven otherwise, but that's okay, i love my hatch even more now.

i got a "reman'ed" carb from carb. exchange online before i put spfi on my hatch. i didn't get the right one cuz i didn't know what year my engine was but besides that the thing was very poorly rebuilt, if rebuilt at all. these carbs aren't easy rebuilds and they're obviously extremely tempermental so be real careful about who you let mess with it or who you buy one from. maybe you could try shooting some carb cleaner into the bowl inlet while cranking just so there's some vac to pull it through... just an idea, i know those things are big bucks and a severe pain in the arse!

anybody know where somebody could find an old ea81 valve adjustment tool like the one shown in htkysa?

my wife and i bought our 97 legacy l wagon with 180k and its at 183k now. i'll be doing the timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment, and brakes in a couple months or so then we're planning on driving it to denver and back from central ca later this year. i've had a few project cars of more than a few different species and taken different paths with each them. with only 160k i think most folks would be happiest addressing mechanical needs first, mods and everything but the mechanical desires next, then maybe rebuild/replace engine/trans if it suits you. oh, and as far as cupholders are concerned, i really don't like the cupholders in my wife's legacy. they're flimsy and poorly located. we just use the center console as the driver's cupholder. its kinda inconvenient and of course its not possible if the console is stuffed with junk!

i hope that's not patented, cuz i'm gonna use that one!

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?a=G-autoparts does rock auto ship international orders? if not, i'm sure somebody in the states would and you would then just need to find somebody to do the work.

i don't think its really how much you make but what kind you're condensing and collecting. in distilling, there's different types of alcohols that are produced at different temperatures and the different techniques of distilling have methods to collect the different types of those alcohols. from what i read the federal law says that distilling alcohol for the production of liquor (which would be methyl alcohol i think) is illegal without proper licensing, regardless of the intended use of that alcohol/liquor.

employees in auto parts stores around here are worse than strung-out carnies! half don't speak english half don't know a crankshaft from a muffler bearing most of them can't use the computers proficiently none of them have customer service skills point is, even if they have some true coolant hose in the back somewhere you'll have a hell of a time getting to it. i found a local autozone with managers that just let me find what i need myself... but yeah, glycol resistant hose is obviously better for those who don't want to mess with it for years to come.

so is that to mean that your pump was pumping with power from the relay and the "in" line disconnected from the carb? if so, then i would think the problem is in the carb. otherwise, like bucky said, that's the next thing to check. and do hotwire it to a good battery as that will allow you to isolate the problem further. if it pumps well hotwired but not with the car's wiring replace the pump relay.