mountaingoatgruff

Way to show a guy up there GD.... I do appreciate the demo, though. I know my setup is not ideal for exhaust tubing from an educated welder's perspective but I'm trying to learn and save money at the same time. I've had a running 2.2/5psd swapped Brat stuck half-finished in my back yard for months now and I just want to finally drive the damn thing.

I don't have the patience to wait till I can afford gas so I'm trying flux core for now. I got the HF auto darkening helmet - literally the same as the blue flame one minus the $10 sticker job. Works okay but I think I should value my sight more than that mask implies... I'm using Lincoln NR211 flux core wire from HD. I did notice the HF flux core wire is made in Italy, not China. The HD wire is US made. It took me about 45min to stop blowing holes and just make ugly globs on some scrap exhaust tubing but that was all the time I've had so far. I settled at minimum power (of course) and 35% wire speed. I'm confident I can get sealed joints with more practice.

I called some local welding supply shops and priced a tank and some 75/25: $71 for a 20 cu ft tank and $24/filling. Then I'd still need a regulator (not built into my machine), $70 at the welding supply or $30 @ HF. It'll cost me an additional $125 up front to run gas but after considering the advantages I'm going to try to save up another few weeks and get a tank.

I knew he was using gas but I didn't know the slag would make such a difference...scratch that idea....

I really lucked out getting this welder. My dad has a junk HF welder so naturally I thought he would give me that and keep the Clarke, but he didn't want to bother running an outlet for it then trying to figure the thing out. I need to learn to weld exhaust tubing because that's the only way my Brat is getting finished. There's no way I can afford to have a shop do it - especially since they wont weld on used cats. The exhaust and rad are all that's left. I've also got to fix the exhaust on my Ramcharger then I have a long list of thicker metal jobs I want to do - couple bumpers, pushbar, lift, etc. That's why I'd like to get set up for thicker metal and just "deal with it" for these two exhaust jobs if possible.

I've been planning on trying the method in this video:

Is the better wire from the welding supply still Lincoln brand? That's all HD here carries.

I recently inherited an old Italian made Clarke TurboWeld 150EN 220V gas or gassless MIG welder from my grandfather. I already did a tweco conversion, cost $50 because I needed a whole new torch. I don't have the dough for a tank/regulator/gas though so I'm going to start out with gassless flux core wire. I will be welding exhaust, lift parts, bumpers and very rarely thin sheet (I hate body work). I'm on a really tight budget so I thought I'd get the Harbor Freight 0.03" wire and their auto-darkening mask to learn with. Should I consider brand name wire to make it easier to learn or increase my weld quality? I'm not sure what the differences in wire are besides their applications but I've watched guys use HF welders with HF wire......splatter city....

I replaced the ECM, re-ran all MPFI power through a hidden toggle switch, added some grounds under the dash and now it runs beautifully. The previous ECM will not turn on so it must have gotten fried at some point. Exhaust and radiator work to come soon...been spending too much on the Ramcharger...

Even if I were I think I'd have a CEL and fuel pumping right? I'll see if I can find tone patterns.

Both have 12V from the battery. I verified I have 12V out the other side when the relay is on and I have full power at the ECM connectors: constant 12V to B48 pin 15 (back-up power) 12V in run & start to B48 pins 2 & 13(power supplies) 12V in run & start to B58 pin 12 (ignition switch) 12V in start only to B56 pin 10 (start signal) Gounds have good continuity, voltage is there...:-\

It was feeding the SPFI engine in there weeks ago just fine.

97 longblock, 95 intake, 92 ECM & harness I put a 92 TB on there (for the TPS) and 92 cam/crank/knock sensors. I'm using a 92 MAF and will be using 92 O2 sensor. I wired in the 97 coilpacks, common upgrade. Everything that matters is OBD I. There should be no compatability issues, none that would cause this scenario at least.

85 Brat 92 ECM & harness 97 EJ22 Finally got to the point where I tried to crank and it turned over but I had no CEL and no fuel pumping - like the MPFI system isn't coming on. I checked over my wiring again and found only 1 mistake: I had put constant 12V to the MPFI diode instead of ignition switched 12V. I've fixed that, verified I have voltage at the ECM & ignition relay, checked all my grounds and tested the ig relay and fusible with a multimeter. ECM came from the junkyard but I have yet to get a bad one. I'm not sure how to see if this one is toast or what else to check.

I've had good and bad luck with Attarco "low mileage JDM import" engines, I hope it goes well for you.

I made this cheezy bmp when I did my 5speed swap into my hatch. D/R 5MT will have up to four external switches.

As far as engine crossmembers, any EJ would be a hell of a lot more work than an EA82 for little gain. You can use EJ struts, knuckles, brakes, even P/S (with a little work) on an EA81 chassis by slapping an EA82 crossmember on. Seems ideal to me.

I thought I'd put some photos up since I finally got to really drive my Brat after getting some exhaust work done. It turned out pretty close to how I wanted it and I'm happy for the price. Some shots down there of the SPFI and how the inside is coming along, too. Its an aftermarket EA82 y-pipe with an aftermarket 2.25" 2nd cat and 2.25" all the way back to nothing. The guy joked that it sounded exactly the same after installing the tailpipe...sweet....

My garage has 2 engines and 2 trans sitting in there right now, and all 4 of the vehicles in my driveway have an engine/trans in them (my cummins-powered dodge is the only non-sube). I have yet another trans and a tore down EJ out back. Then there's the "shevy" 454 w/ matching auto trans and d/r 4x4 transfer case I'm trying to get rid of, but those are in my Mom's driveway on Main St. though...... The rack in the corner is loaded with a complete Imp dash, tons of Imp running gear parts, tons of spare EA81 int parts, junk off of cars I've fixed, and raw metal. In fact, between all these spare parts, my rollaway, table saw, tiling equipment, 2 sets of washers/dryers, and some lumber I can only pul my cars about 2' into my single car detached garage. Space is overrated:lol: But seriously, buy a spare trans...don't...its all pretty subjective stuff guys.

Nice Brat, I'm diggin the 5 lug swap! Yeah - that hose is the vac supply for the hvac exactly like monstaru said, should have a check valve on it.

you need to swap in a 5 speed.

yeah, that's exactly why i wasted time and money rebuilding this one...

I forgot to mention that the Impreza trans mount and crossmember are included while the rear diff cover is not. The mounts and crossmember were just left bolted to the trans and the finned aluminum rear cover went on my wife's car months ago. If I remember correctly the diffs are 4.11 - I'm not 100% sure but they're both there. Any Legacy or Impreza rear diff cover will fit, I'm not sure about EA diffs, if they're the same. Maybe you could put the EJ diff into the EA case and EJ inner joints with diff stubs on EA axles? Like Gloyale said, you'd have to put the Impreza front diff into your Loyale bellhousing. I recommend resetting the backlash after doing this, kinda a PITA to do one from scratch but needs to be done for a DD when diff's swap cases.

thanks for the follow-up, that's good info for anyone who uses a flat implement in the switch because their lock cylinder is siezed... i short those solder joints occasionally.

If you don't mind going to a self serve yard I bet you'd find an acceptable longblock in the yards in Rancho Cordova, about 45 min from Placerville, for less than I imagine a rebuild costs. I go to Pick-N-Pull there occasionally and see at least one EA82 literally every time I go. There's a Subaru specific yard there too - mostly EJ stuff, higher prices though.