mountaingoatgruff

thanks, johnceggleston. i used a hammer and punch and got the whole mess off. sounds like it'll be easy enough when i go to swap the cylinders.

thanks for all the advice guys. i don't want the whole assembly, just the lock cylinder. i figured there had to be a way to replace it without messing with the headless bolts, but i can't find it and all my fsm's and chiltons are still packed from recently moving. the door locks on the OBS i got were screwed (as in with a flathead) so i swapped over the 93 imp's and i'm swapping the entire back hatch out today, lock and all. i'd like to just swap over the ignition lock cylinder so the car uses only one key again. i'll try a hammer and chisel but if i have to get grabits i probably won't bother. the wreckers are coming for the car later today or early tommorow and i'm just grabbing the low hanging fruit that's left.

i'm trying to remove the ignition lock cylinder from a 93 impreza. i've got the switch removed but i can't see where to undo the collar on the column that houses the lock cylinder. anyone done this before?

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70103&SearchAll=4x4%20OffRoad these work well, i have a couple of them. paid $11 each http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70103&SearchAll=4x4%20OffRoad CirKit Boss auxiliary blocks come with inline circuit breaker, relay, wires and are available in a range of amperages. much more $ though, like $50

saw these looking at wraps. i'd love to camo the hatch with a wrap - it'd make acu easy.

won't even get it past the smog tech if he's doing his job properly, and most of them do cuz their licensing depends on it. ca smog checks require visual verification of the vin.

i like how the front section of that lift is built. any more pics of the rest of the lift by chance?

i had my 62 dart wagon shipped from az to central ca by das a few years ago. best price i found and the driver bs'ed with me for a hour before taking off. i'll recommend them, too.

the modesto pick-n-pull had a couple m/t legacies last time i was there, about three weeks ago. that seems to be all they have usually and i always end up going to stockton. stockton p-n-p has what i need 75% of the time, ranch cordova never disappoints.

you'll never get a weberized subaru to pass smog in cali, its that simple. so really, option three is break the law. i totally disagree with the emissions laws of ca, but every time someone bypasses these laws by paying off a smog tech or swapping parts for smog checks they're only providing evidence that grown men need these laws treating them like children. california smog laws suck, live with it or move out of state. don't make it harder for us libertarians to do what's right by society in the political arena.

if you're going to smog this car in frisco you're about s.o.l. on power upgrades short of major work. there's really no aftermarket for these cars and what is available is not c.a.r.b. compliant so us cali boys don't usually get to use bolt-on mods. you still have two options, though: 1. replace your EA81's carb with single point fuel injection from an EA82. you may be able to get this to pass smog, but technically its illegal in ca. from what multiple b.a.r. ref's told me the law says you can't upgrade the fuel delivery system unless you're swapping a new engine into the car and even then the engine must be equal or newer age and equal or greater displacement. this is a lot of work and money for something that may or may not get past smog. 2. replace your EA81 with an EJ series engine from a newer subaru (legacy, impreza, etc). this is the better option by far and would be entirely legal done properly but its much more money. you'd have to replace the engine, get an adapter for the trans, wire the mpfi system, and then get it approved by a b.a.r. ref. lots of money and work, i'm halfway done doing this with my 84 hatchback right now. i don't mean to discourage you but being in cali, its going to take some comittment if you want to legally see more power.

i thought the oil pumps on EJ's are supposed to be sealed with anaerobic sealer. i've read "debates" in other threads where folks have suggested there could be problems with dried up chunks of silicone getting into the oiling system. fel-pro has a crank seal set that comes with the crank seal, oil pump o-ring, and an oil pump gasket - i toss the gasket and use anaerobic sealer. also, if you're going to replace cam seals get the two o-rings, not critical but a good "while you're there."

i've used and reused beck arnley exhaust gaskets, dual and single ports, with no problems. gotta be careful ordering them sometimes, i've gotten one style when ordering the other a couple times.

i just pulled the egr pipe off a 97 EJ22 a few weeks ago. 180k miles, kept clean with degreaser and a garden hose and still not a speck of rust, came off easy. you rust belt guys would cry if you looked under my cars, but i pay for it in emissions headaches... as far as the whole egr question, i'd say just add it to the 97 like screwbaru2 said. my hatch's 97 longblock has a 95 intake on it and the 95 longblock in my wife's 97 OBS has the car's original 97 intake so intakes are obviously interchangeable. i redrilled and tapped the egr port in my hatch's EJ to plug it (m/t w/ non-egr ecm). 97 EJ22's have a bit more hp than older ones, too. if you go w/ the 97, adjust the valves while its easy to get to, 100k mile service interval iirc.

too much oxygen? are you freakin kidding?!? "you can't drive you car in the state of california because it puts out too much breathable air, were gonna need you to help prop up our bs economy to fix this." i know its a symptom of a malfunction but this is exactly the difference between laws for the public well being and laws that only serve the gov't. i won't get going on the corruption of the cali air resources board, i get my wrists slapped enough here and qman's got better stuff to do... roadsubiedog, you said the car sat for 5 years and mentioned changing air and oil filters - have you changed the fuel filters? my memory isn't always reliable but i think there's 2 on those cars. might help with the hesitation. also, as ihscout54 suggested, look for vac leaks and verify the timing. my 84 hatchback with the same engine/carb was a hopeless mess of vac leaks. good luck, you're gonna need it.

when i put spfi on my hatch, i replaced the lines between the body and tank with fi rated hose, its not hard just a pain. i also ran a 3" k&n cone filter and never had issues with the oil. i made a new hold down plate for my dist so i could avoid gouging out the slot, moved the bolt hole 3/8" over and it has plenty of rotational room. also, i cinched the coil mount's bolt holes up a bit and just mounted the spfi coil where the original one was and standard EA81 plug wires fit well.

thank you. i'll have to spend some time looking after i get some more tools unpacked from my recent move.

i looked up the code and found this: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0440 i've checked the purge solenoid and it's a rust free ca car so i really doubt the fill neck is cancerous but i'll take a peek. i've been meaning to throw another evap can in it to see what happens but 97's have the bulky canister under the rear and i only have the little round ones on the shelf. no time to make one work... i'm mostly interested in if there's an easy, reliable way to detect leaks - especially in rubber hoses. and safe i should say... also, i should say i replaced the original engine with a 95 longblock and to my knowledge there was no cel before. i was really careful with the manifold but i still suspect a tiny leak in there somewhere. i'd just like to know before i spend the time/$ replacing all those hoses...

97 OBS 210k EJ22 5MT the cel comes on when the tank is down to a 1/4 or less. code is P0440 for evap system. the car had a replacement fuel cap, i replaced it with a known good oem one from a 93 imp and it comes on less, but still comes on...could there be a tiny leak somewhere and how would i find it?

i have an awd 5 speed from a 90 legacy in turlock. it worked fine when pulled, i can't remember the mileage but its high. i'll give it to you for $50 if you pick it up.

seriously? i've never seen an ej car with a hh, my 97 obs doesn't have one and none of the other 5 speed cars we looked at did. which ej's have it?

no space. the hh cable would have to lay on or against the head and i don't like how close the valve itself looks like it'd be to the back of the head. the valve may or may not be good but my hill holder has never worked, i had an older d/r 4speed with no hh cable mount on the clutch fork so there's never been a cable on it. i haven't had a working hh since my first subaru when i was 19 - 83 GL wagon. anyone done an ej swap in an EA81 and kept the hill holder? got pics?

thanks for the measurement. the 5speed kit i got from you is why that 5 speed looks at home, fits great. EJ22, D/R 5 Speed, rebuilt front suspension, kickin system, obw front seats...i know i'm gonna love this hatch too.

thanks for all the compliments. i'll take some better (daytime) pictures once the wiring and such are in. for backinbrat: i had to open the slots outward about 3/8" on both sides and i removed my hill holder. unsure if there'll be room to pull the valve covers (at least not without scratching that purdy paint). also, the engine mount pads on the x-member have a steeper angle than the bottoms of the ej mounts, the rubber of the mounts bends the difference though. i don't know if that's the common scenario but that's how mine went.

engine is in. i think i was just in too much of a hurry and screwing things up as a result. been too busy... and this is probably how it'll sit till after i'm done moving. i'll measure for the driveline and try to get it done before moving but other than that its on hold again.