Greenley

Rockauto.com I got a 4WD GL Beck Arnley clutch kit for $108 shipped to my door.

Nice

Hey yo's This sucker idles like a dream and the torque in first and second is awesome, but the top end is much worse than the hitachi was. I'm aware there's no real improvement here over the $hitachi, but being able to cruise @ 60 would be boss Under load (ie. 25mph in third, 50mph in 4th) it farts out and sputters. Pulling out of gear and giving throttle makes it better, so i'm guessing it is a lack of fuel. Now i realize there is another circuit that comes into play above 1,200 RPM, and no amount of adjusting can help over this threshold. Probably needs some different jetting for the top end, perhaps all around as i live at an elevation of 4,8xx feet. Drop five is what i've read for 5-6.5k ft. But wouldn't i need to go larger, as opposed to smaller, in the secondary jets, if it is acting fuel starved!?

Anyone have a trick for turning the idle mixture screw WHILE the motor's running? On a 32/36 DGAV carb fitted to an EA81. The Disty cap is entirely in the way, i'm having to remove it to change the mixture setting.

Hey Yo! check this thread out, it may help with your troubles. Axle Replacement for EA Series Cars

It's all good in the hood. Mounted her up, fired it up and it chugged like a tractor like it's supposed to! STOKED! Thank you for all your help and ideas!

Backed the screws that hold the throttle plate to the shaft completely out, took the plate out and flipped it 180 degrees. It seals like a champ. I'm gonna bolt it back on to the manifold in a few, if it doesn't work i'm gonna punt the rocksucker down the street!

For starters, get one of those cheapy coolant testers with the little colored balls in a glass dropper. Shouldn't cost more than two bucks @ your local MalWart. That'll give you a ballpark range on your mix ratio

I don't think the carb had a very pleasant trip in the mail. If it wasn't for the good packing, it may have been worse I thought about flipping it, because it does seal REAL nicely the other way around. It just wasn't making much sense as to how the linkage would work with it reversed.

It is spaced out with a washer off the hitachi, this was to rule out binding on the choke rod. All is clear there. Good observation, but the spring installed did not help. I would say that is spot on. I have the carb off, sitting on my kitchen table. The maximum closing stroke leaves about a .010-ish" gap. I would assume that the secondary throttle plate needs to close off the venturi(?) just as efficiently as the primary side does. Am i correct in this reasoning? If that's the case, i think i may have to file a very small amount off of the sides of the plate, because it is rubbing (i can see the mark). Loosening the two screws and adjusting it doesn't seem to help close. Geez, i didn't think i'd have to actually learn about the thing when i installed it.

A shameless i can't sleep because this is gettin' to me bump

I can only verify that the secondary throttle plate does not close completely. There's no way to adjust that from the outside. Anyone else ever dealt with this?

The linkage that controls the secondary on mine is @ a more horizontal position than others i've seen in pictures. It doesn't seem to allow the secondary to close all the way like that Is this what you are referring to as the "hinge"... It obviously needs to be in the up position, like yours is, for the secondary to close, but mine will not go that far. I take it that's what your spring is for!? Mine in closed secondary position: There's obviously something wrong here.

No major vaccum leaks Created adequate slack in the throttle cable The carb linkage is not quite setting against the idle speed screw with it turned all the way in. A good 1/4 inch away. Edit: It now looks good, didn't engage the choke @ first. Secondary throttle valve is NOT closing. Seems like the "linkage" needs to be adjusted?

Next September is a long way off Dude can't abide?

84 GL Wagon EA81 4WD After the hydrolock from the intake manifold installation, and siphoning coolant from the bores, and verifying spark, fuel, and compression.. i finally got it to fire. Quickly revved to 4k RPM (within a second) with no sign of slowing down, before i shut it off. The idle speed screw and the mixture screw are adjusted to recommended setup specification (1.5 in and 2 out, respectively). Does this sound like throttle linkage binding, or shall i investigate elsewhere:confused:

The greenery of WA blows my mind. Nice pics!

You are correct, i did read through yours at least 3 times. It was very helpful in deciding how to route the breathers and PCV hose.

Thanks I'm finding it hard to determine what needs to be capped off, if those are both emissions related, then out they go. There is TOO much information on the weber swap, and the how to links are dead.

Too much of this, Leads to:

Here it is, with a camera phone: Here's my solution to the ASV: Still trying to figure out what to do with these : Vaccum Switch I & II Also have to connect the choke wire, return spring, and route the crankcase breather hoses a little better. I'd be a lot happier if she'd fire up, but at least it's turing over. It's only me and my boy right now, so not much time to tinker.

Whew, pulled the plugs and cranked her over (very nervously) Just as Bucky92 said, coolant spewed out of the #1 and #3 cylinders. No bad noise, all seems ok. Off to get the plugs back in and try this weber out

That would have been nice to know before destroying the cylinder.

I like that, so subtle that it looks "stock":)

So would coolant entering into the head equate to it being hydrolocked? I'll pull the plugs tomorrow and crank it.