Mr. Brat

85 Brat 95 EJ18 93 EJ22 intake 92 EJ22 harness & ECU 86 d/r 5 spd homemade 4" front 3 1/2" rear lift 6 lug conv. SJR adaptor 2" exhuast to magnaflow single in dual out XT6 clutch rear disk brakes Lots of other custom stuff done

Went to the junk yard today and pulled another engine harness. Stripped it down and tried over again. BAM!!! it worked. I must have clipped a ground on the old harness and it all went down hill from there. So I took extra care and faness when stripping down todays harness. It works great and the fuel pump relay works the way it should be also.

I tried that. Went to the key on position of the headlight relay under the dash. It still back feed and didnt change anything. If the alternator or the diode was bad you think this would cause the problem?

Did lot of checking tonight. found with the key being on and the engine off. When the injectors are clicking and the tach is bouncing, the coil is rapid fireing to the spark plugs and the injectors are dumping fuel. The only thing that I found that would stop all of this (besides turning the key off) is unplugging the alternator. Everything is quite. I cut the yellow wire, which is the signal to charge and plugged the alternator back in. No noise, no tach bouncing! Any ideas? Everything should work fine if I could find a wire that has a engine running voltage to wire to the alternator to turn it on. With this wire cut my volt gauge in the cluster is reding about 10 volts. If I hook that yellow wire to the positive side on the battery the alternator will charge and everything is fine.

Spliced the tach wire at the connector under the dash (no stay wires in the engine bay). The alternator is good and charging at 14 volts. I know this sounds bad but before I ran the wires threw the gromet behind the strut tower the tach and the injectors were fine, not noise nor bouncing. Before I ran the wires and relumed everything I striped out more wires the I had thought were not used. Cound this problem be a common ground that be hae been jepordized when things were moved. I came up with only 2 grounds for the EJ harness, which both came out of the harness that runs to the cooling fan. This seems like the only thing that makes sence to me. Should there be a common ground out of the ECU itself? When the key is on and tach bounces it ranges from 200-800 rpms. Holds solid when the motor is running.

Also I didnt hook slpice in the check engine like wire from the ECU. Should I wire that in, and if so what wire do I tap it to?

I think I have this all hooked up right. I am positive that the injectors did not make this pulsing/rattling noise before I pulled the motor. Also I hooked my tach up to the yellow wire from the black connector under the dash. When the key is on and the motor is not running sometimes it bounces with the pulsation of the injectors. Wierd... Any ideas?

Yeah the smaller spline is the front wheel drive. I just put a XT6 clutch in my 85 brat w/ d/r 5 spd.

I paid $50 for mine, came with flywheel and drive line. No shifting linkage. Linkage was $50 for Aaron's auto wrecking. So I would say $75-150 depending on milage.

OK well I went out and did some tests on the fuel pump relay. The ECU is sending the ground signal. When battery votage is supplied to the ECU, I get 1 second of no power (ground) from plug F47,pin 23. Which is the way is should be. Also get battery voltage at pin 2 of fuel pump relay when key is on. I still dont have any power coming out of the black/red wire to the fuel pump. The big solid yellow wire out of the relay is slpiced to the same solid yellow wires from the main relay. Should these have contant power also? When I look at Numbchux write up on how the wiring should be, I see that pin 2 & 3 should be spliced together out of the fuel pump relay and then spliced into the yellow/red wires out of the Main relay. Is this what I am suppose to do?

I was talking about the EA81. I am having a problem with the fuel pump relay not getting a gound signal. I had this problem when I striped the harness down. I know it was good before I did the strip. Its ran good. Both of the small wires still go to the ECU and the bigger yellow wire gets battery voltage. But still no voltage coming out of the Big bk/bl wire.

What about a brat?

Oh got it. I did not know that. That would make sense why the fuel pump would only turn on for a second or two. I did some research on all data and found that the main relay and fuel pump relay are together. Is that true? That must by why numbchux says to use both the main and fuel pump relay from the EJ.

Or went to the offraod section, or the vendor section. There is a couple members that build and sell lift kits and along with many other accesories. Just do some searching. And welcome...

Ha rochester... That explains alot. Welcome to the board.

Now I have a copy of Numbchux's write up. He says to use the EJ fuel pump relay. I hung the wires over the fender like he said and plugged everything in to see if it will run. Now all I did was supply the EJ wiring harness with battery voltage. Nothing is spliced into the brat right now. Hence the EA fuel pump relay. With the motor idling, it will run about 2 minutes and die. Turn the key on and off a couple times to prime the FI pump and it fires right back up. Rev's great has no runabilty issues at all. My question is, does the EA fuel pump relay not supply a constant power source to the fuel pump, hense using the EJ fuel pump relay? Im not trying to change the world but if one step can be elimanated... why not.

Well I went to the junk yard and picked up a fuel pump from a loyale. Already mounted it in the slock location. Picked up some high and low pressure fuel lines and a filter. Just have to hit the store to find some adaptors. Thanks for all the help. I know it can seem redundant at times. But anything helps.

Ok, i'm sorry. I must have been reading to far into your right up. I guess my eyes seen what wasn't really there. As for the mounting, I could put the pump where the rear fuel filter is correct? Would you still recomend a surge tank after the pump?

I read and read and read... All I can find is that you can you either use the EJ fuel pump or aftermarket one. My EJ pump works just fine. Now the question. Do I put the EJ pump in the EA81 tank? I seen someone put a pump where the rear fuel filter was mounted. If I put the pump in the fuel filter spot, do I still leave in the stock pump in the tank? If I use both pumps, I shouldn't need to worry about a surge tank either right?

I will take a pair for the brat if they fit.

Yeah - my bad. I read that totally wrong. That would be a direct bolt in. The wiring would be differant, being the EA82 tranny didnt have a low range.

No its not just as simple as cutting a hole for the range selector. You have to make/buy tranny mounts/crossmember. Weld/bolt in carrier bearing. Little bit of wiring (if you care). I think 1st and second gear is a little smaller. But I did my lift and swap at the same time, so I cant really say.

Im in! Should for some sort of convoy for the way over!

Pacific Import Auto is a great subaru only shop. They dont do alot of work on the older EA81 and EA82's. But they do when it is brought to them. I have been family friends with the owner of this shop for years. They are very good and very reliable.