Mr. Brat

I had all the grounds reconnected to the original places both on the block and next to the strut towers. The car ran great with no check engine light at all. The ECU only needs the 2 power wires correct? The main power supply (ignition activated) and the memory right?

So I spent a few hours trying to pin out the relay to figure out what was going on. I found that the ECU was not sending the fuel pump relay that ground like it should be. I rechecked all my grounds and even added a few (on cut off splices) for good measure. I still get battery voltage at 3 wires for the fuel pump.

From what I have read online. The ECU controls that ground for the fuel pump relay. Maybe check your grounds? Maybe I should recheck my grounds? I think I am just going to do the swap and figure it all out then. I deleted all the ignition wires so its a pain in the butt to track everything. Thats a good idea for the toggle switch ground anti theft. I am going to wire my clutch switch threw the rear defroster button (brats dont have rear defrost). Being it will look factory nobody would be able to figure it out.

So I worked on this harness tonight and got it fired up. Found that I needed the "key on" like I had thought that went to pin 12 of B58 plug on the ECU. After this I found that my fuel pump relay was not working right. With the power to the ECU and in "ON" position, I have power going in on 3 pins but no power going out to the fuel pump. I can take a jumper wire to the green/black wire which comes from the ECU and activate the relay to power the pump. With the car running with the jumper wire to the pump I am getting battery voltage at green/black from ECU, yellow from ECU and main power. I looked up the info on Alldata and it said "OPERATION- The fuel pump relay operates for a few seconds when the ignition is turned ON. The relay only remains engaged if the ECU detects the engine running, or the starter operating. Power is supplied to the relay when the key is ON. The ECU controls relay ground." I have the 3 grounds that were left when the harness was thinned out plus I put in another ground so 4 total. Any point in a direction would be great. Or would it be better for me to just do the swap and get the ignition in the works to siplify this whole thing?

Gloyale- I figure I am just missing something small and simple. Pulled all the harnesses out and figured since the car was still there and motor intact I would see if it would still fire. I think I made the mistake when I cut out all the ignition wires being I would use that stuff from the brat. So with that being said, the main relay isnt seeing the "key on" and the only power that is being supplied to the whole car is 12v from the battery that was in Numbcux's updated write-up.

I did some searching around here and didn't find what I was looking for. I have both an EJ18 and EJ22. The 22 is still in the car. Plan to put the intake and the harness from the legacy onto the 18 til the 22 gets built. So I pulled the dash and the engine harnesses out and thinned them down (so I think I did). I wanted to start the engine to make sure I did this right. So I plugged everything back in (eninge harness to the SMJ and ran the wires to the ECU as per Numbcux's write up). I am not using a key as I am using a remote starter due to thinning. It does not start nor is the fuel pump turning on. I can wire it directly to the battery and it works fine. So I brought out the multimeter and found that the main relay is getting power but is not powering out. Thus is why I think I am not getting spark. I may be wrong. I powered the duty side of the relay (click) and still no spark. Also if I am thinking right when the main relay is active or powered shouldn't the fuel pump relay also be active? Is there somewhere that I may have overlooked where there needs to be a "key in on postition?" I am lost on where to go with this. Note: 95 impreza EJ18 motor 93 legacy EJ22 motor and harnesses the legacy runs good, drove it into the shop last night.

Well for now I will try and get it pretty close and see where I get with the wiring. The intake, ECU and the harness should be the only thing that is differant from the 1.8 right? The throttle body and MAF should be the same. As for the smog sensors in the intake I was going to try and find out what voltage is sent back to the ECU and then duplicate that via resistors. Only problem with that would be if the voltage changes via fuel or vaccum. Dont know about that yet nor have looked into it. Should I quit while I am somewhat ahead and go to the junk yard and get an intake harness and ECU out of a OBD 1 legacy?

I didn't have to register. Just wait til the timer goes away and click the free download. It didn't ask me to register.

PM sent S'ko

So I printed off Numbchux write on the EJ swap, first bump in the road. Dont know if its the differance between 1.8 and 2.2 or maybe a cali motor. Anyways in his swap at the ECU he says there is 4 yellow connectors. My ECU has 3 green connectors. And without removing the harness, I am at a stand still. I have already takin out all the headlight and turn siganl wires. There was an ABS plug that went to the pass. front that I am guessing plugged into the ABS system that sits behind the headlight, do I need this also?

Yeah its a Gen 2, I was lookin at the junk yard today and noticed that there was a few differances in the harnesses (between my 1.8 and harness and the 2.2 and harness). But for the most part I would assume that they would be the same. The other thing is that when I get the motor the harnesses were also takin out of the car. Thus meaning I have no idea what does where. I have all the stuff plugged into the motor. Does anything need to be connected the the ABS? Or does the ECU need a signal from the ABS? I do remember reading that someone used a 2.2 harness on a 1.8 and it was in a EA81, but there was no info on how it was ran or wired up.

I have done some searching and haven't found anyone that has done this swap and did somewhat of a write on it. The motor that I got I couldn't pass the deal on. It has all the smog junk on it (for now). But fabing everything up is not the problem. I am mostly looking fot the wiring. Is this the same as the swaps into the EA82's? I also read somewhere which I cant find again and the ECU needs a wire from the ABS. If this being true what wire do I need to find/run to the ECU? Does anyone have a schematic of the wiring that I could cheat off of? Or if someone that has done the swap live down in the lower puget sound give me a little help? I always have beer!

Weird that some people are having lockin up issues with EA81s. Is everyone that is having this issue running stock or stock type tires. I have never had mine lock up on my at all, even when its icy out.

Sent PM.

Your right, my bad.

Yeah they are and complete swap to six lug in the rear. I had them on for a few years and then did the rear disk convertion. I drive mine mine daily about 75 round trip from Graham to Olympia and it drives just fine with 28 inch mud tires. If you are interested I could make up a set of front HUBS. The only downfall to doing this is that you loose all the 4 lug configuration.

What about just converting it to six lug. I have a set of drums, and im not to far from you.

I did this conversion on my brat. Did not put the valve in when I did it. The brat stops way faster. I never heard about the vlave being installed but I did hear about putting the master cylinder in. Either way I wouldn't worry about it. And yet if you are going to worry about it, put it in! Or just do the conversion and see what it does. You can always put the stuff in later.

I do the same thing. But I tighten my original studs just a little tighter then the others. Just something that I do to know that it wont move any when I tighten the other 4 studs.

http://www.ntwonline.com/MTX_-_WILD_COUNTRY_RADIAL_P17022C1319.cfm These look pretty good and are really cheap.

What about boggers? I have had super good luck with Cooper SST's.

The p/s racks for the ea and ej are retally available. I just need to find a p/s crossmemeber for an ea81. Im still looking but have not struck gold yet!

Yeah that would work also. I tried throwin something out there the was a little more detailed for some that arent so electrical savy.

Cant you just cap the egr lines at the exhaust and then plug the vaccum lines in the intake manifold? Mine is also an EJ18.

I know someone just recently posted a listing about the wiring on the 5 spd swap. But that was only for the revese lights and the low range indicatior on the dash. I went the to the junk yard and liked up a 6 pin plug from an EA82 car that had the d/r trans. I ran 2 wires from inside where the 4wd micro switch was down threw the trans tunnel and ran it forward with the other wiring ontop the trans. The wiring connections are as follows: Low range indicator, Green/Black to Blue/Red Black to Black Reverse light Green/White to Green/White Green to Green/Black 4wd (I ran a Blue and Black wire to the front) Inside Car Black to Black Green to Blue At 6 pin plug Black to Black Blue/Red too Blue Hope this helps out some of you.