Mr. Brat

That was my first guess. All the cars in the junk yard kinda backed that theory when I didn't see the lines and the cali stickers in the drivers windows. So I think it is safe to cap those off.

The ej motor that I have has the egr valve and lines on one side and is missing in the other. Went to the junk yard yesterday and ever ej motor I looked at 91-95 didnt have the lines. Nor did the block have the ports right about the exhaust manifolds. Do I really need this? I dont live in the smog area and dont plan on putting a cat back in it. But I still want it to be reliable and is still going to be my daily driver. Could I just tap those ports and plug them?

There is a great differance between the p/s and non p/s racks. Does anyone know of a junk yard or a person that is parting out a car the have the p/s cross member in it?

Was thinking about fabbin up an intire new cross member to hous the p/s rack, motor mounts and lower control arms. Or the easiest way... does anyone know where I could pick up a p/s cross member? I already have the 6 lug conversion and have a 4 inch lift. So the 5 lug conversion is out.

I didn't look that close at the power steering rack and mounting of it in either cars. Could the cross member be cut in half and shortened to it between the frame rails? Then trim a little off the arms coming off the rack? How about the lower control arms mounting? Just throwing it out there. I have never ran across an EA81 p/s car in the junk yards.

Went junk yard shopping today. With the EJ swap im doing I would like to update the brat to power steering. I found both EA82 and EJ cross members with the racks and the lines still. Will one of these cross members work for me? I haven't done the EA82 suspension swap and dont really want to due to keeping the tires in as much as possible (daily driver). Any other ideas?

Alright, that sounds like a good plan for now. I could make a cross member without a problem. Thought I have read somewhere the 2.2 heads would lower the compression ratios. I guess that would be the 2.2l turbo heads. So if i am understanding this right I can use exhuast headers for a 95-99 outback 2.5 header. Would that be the same as 2.5 RS exhuast? Reason I ask I have found a few header pipes for an 01 and 05 and various years in between. If I am not mistakin OBD1 is only a "pre cat" O2 sensor setup correct? If so I wont even put a cat in it. If I do come across a turbo, exhuast and ECU. What psi could I run without doing any head upgrading?

I dont think I even need the cat, being my motor is OBD1. But im really wondering about the 01 impreza turbo exhaust. If that will fit or not. I am thinking of turboing the 1.8 with maybe some 2.2l heads to lower the compression ratios. What do ya'll think about that?

I dont have smog, but the motor I have is a 95 1.8L. That should have a pre cat o2 sensor right? Even if it is a "pre cat" sensor straight pipe wouldn't matter. I found a cross over pipe, down pipe and tmic for $150. But its out of a 01 impreza, will this fit if I want to turbo this motor?

Thanks Jibs, I can cut and weld anything to work. I was just lookin at the header kits on ebay, but all those are for 96 and newer. Didnt know about O2 sensors and all that stuff. Dont really want to run a cat, but still want the motor to be economical being it is my daily driver. I could go to pull-a-part and get the shorty headers cuz they cut the cats out for recycle, and make a y pipe. What about just deleting the O2 sensor?

I almost have all the part I think I need for my swap. I am down to little things and still in need of an exhuast. What motor ranges and year ranges can I use for the exhuast?

Gary- I wouldn't run more than 10 psi or so, well thats if im not hapy with the motor. I think im going to poslish the intake and the exhuast ports to try and get a little more torque out of it. Think that would make enough differance verse the the time invested? The heads are already off and sitting on the bench.

Thanks for all the info. I was about to blow a head gasket. Sounds like I am just going to go ahead with the 1.8 for now. If in not mistakin if the 1.8 doesn't have enough power for me. I can put 2.2 heads on it to lower the compression and then tubro it right? What about the 2.2 with the knock sensor? If I did the 2.2 swap would I need the ECU or would the 1.8 ECU work? Sorry but I just want all my ducks in a row.

Yeah this one is casted as an EJ18. But its the other stuff that throws me off. All the pictures and the online repair manuals all point to it being a 2.2 (with the coil pack on the plenum, 1 piece t-belt, hydrolic tensioner). But if it is a 1.8 could it be a EJ18 block bored to a 2.2? About the knock sensor... if upgraded to a 2.2? Would that have to be retrofitted into the ECU?

So the more and more I look into this motor. I find that it looks as if my intake manifold is for a 2.2 and I have a 1 piece timing belt, while the 1.8 has a 2 piece belt. Also find that with the instuctions of removing the timing belt, in the 2.2 instructions it tells you to put the belt tensioner in the vise to compress it and put a pin in it. That is what I had to do. Not the turn the tensioner pulls up like the 1.8. I am so confused.

So im kinda pissed off. Bought a motor from guy that said it was a 2.2l. Well come to find out after dismantling it to the block, I find the block is stamped EJ18. I have all the harness and the motor it totally complete. Still has the cross hashes in the cylinder walls. Question being, What is the differance between the 1.8 and the 2.2? I know there is a big power differance but how much? And also, will it directly bolt up to the 5 spd d/r trans (not need to redrill the flywheel and need an adaptor plate)? And is the same harness used for the 1.8 and the 2.2 if I still wanted to put a 2.2 in it later? Haven't seen a forum on here about this swap, so im kinda up in the air.

I agree with you on that it is easier to redrill wheels rather than the plates. But just like you said if you want to run alloys or plan on maybe running alloys the redrill wheel method wont work. It would probably save you about 3 hours worth of work to.

Gary- its like the first one that you sent me. Has dual ports the collect into the same header. The picture summed it up for me just fine. Thanks

If you use a small enough drill bit so you dont damage the taper, I think it would be fine. I saved mine for the spare. I have a slight wabble about 40 mph, but other than that its good up to about 85 or so. That was down hill and burnin the feet of the little gerbils. It wabbled pretty bad when I didn't grind the back of the hub flat. Make sure you do that.

I know that in Washington you can add as many lights as you want and use them on the road as long as they are not above the factory lights, and are not brighter than 55w or 65w what ever your high beam wattage is, I cant remember right now.

I used 3 drill bits. 1st bit was bigger than the holes on the wheels. Use this to transfer a centering mark to the hub. 2nd bit was a small bit for a pilot hole. 3rd bit was slightly larger than the wheel studs. Then I ground the back of the hub down so the slud flanges would sit flat. Then bolted the 2 original studs to the wheel. Next put the 4 new studs in. This centered the studs pretty well with the wheel. Then I welded them in.

When I did mine, I went to the tire shop and they gave me a junk chev or yota wheel. I used a bigger drill bit then what the hole was on the wheel and drilled threw it. It was better then eye ballin it. Long story short use the holes of the wheel as a pilot hole.

Numbchux- I was refering to having to header pipes on each side of the motor (4 pipes total). Without being at hoome to look at the motor, I think it only had 2 studs at the exhaust port. Do both ports dump into a single head pipe? Gary- Sinlge port would be like the EA81 motor, where there is only 1 port for both cylinders. I have seen headers that have to head pipes the y together and then the left and right side y together then go into the cat. I guess with that it makes me a little confused. I just dont want to buy the wrong head pipes or y pipe. Im still learning as I go with this swap.

I am a little foggy on this one, if someone could clear it for me that would be great. I just picked up a 95 impreza 2.2 and the guy i bought it from said I need a single port y pipe. Then lookin around im seeing dual port... I looked at the motor and seen that it has 2 exhaust ports on each head. They are close together, do they collect in the same header? If that be the case the dual port would be to seperate headers on each side of the motor. Did I just figure it out?

85 Brat, 4" front 3 1/2" rear lift, tube brumpers front and rear, 5 spd d/r, ea81 w/ weber, dual magnaflow exhuast, wrx hood scoop, impreza seats, locked diff, 6 lug conv, 28" hancook dynopro's, 27" SSR's, 15" wheels, ej22 motor in the shop, canopy being painted