diggler1971

Yes, the CEL is working when the ignition is turned on. But it is not coming on while the car is running. What I don't really understand is, if the engine rotation signal is not showing up, then how is it running at all. Unless the sensor is sending the signal to the ecu, but the tcu is not getting it, and trying to shut it down. It runs sorta like when your running out of gas. Choppy like that. If you don't keep it revved it dies straight away. I was however, able keep it running sort of steady when I had it revved at about 2200 rpm. When I ran it a few minutes ago, it ran the same as it has, but the power light is not blinking. I think the power light was only blinking when I was trying to drive it. But it still show the 23 code as current.

I've got a 92 legacy awd (my son's car) that was in a wreck recently. It was hit in the drivers front side, my son pulled out in front of someone. Since the accident, the car will start up just fine, but runs for only a couple seconds then tries to die. You can rev and feather the throttle and sort of keep it running, but it continually tries to die. The car was hit pretty hard, bending the strut and wadding up the fender. I have replaced the strut and removed the fender, and I'm looking over the wiring looms that run down that side (under the fender) looking for crushed, pinched or shorted wires, but everything looks good so far. I noticed that the power light is flashing, so I checked the codes, and for current codes got a 23 (engine revolution signal). For the previous codes I got 23, 32,33. The 32 and 33 are VSS 1 and 2. I did put a tranny in this car about a month ago, so the VSS codes may have been from then, however I don't remember the power light ever flashing before. So, does the engine revolution signal code refer to the crank position sensor or a cam position sensor? or both? It seems like either of these would produce this kind of effect, but I would think that the CEL would be on, and it's not, so far. So I'm not sure if this is a tranny problem or an engine problem. I'm gonna continue to troubleshoot, but thought I would try to get some advice from you guys. So, any input is appreciated. Thanks

Well, I think it's fixed, and I feel a little embarassed to say what the problem was. Yesterday, I drove it again with o2 unplugged (perofrmed better than with o2 plugged in), then changed the o2 out of my parts car (performed a little better yet). This reaffirmed to me that the problem lie in the fuel or air stuff. After this, I decided to (at the suggestion of a poster) start pulling plug wires to see if one did not produce much change in idle performance, assuming that if one did not change engine performance, then prolly that is were the problem is. I started off pulling pass. side front wire. As soon as I pulled it, the engine died. I found this odd, because I have run one of these motors missing one plug, in the past. Missing a plug the motor ran rough and had low power but it did run, so I found it odd that this motor died straight away when losing one cylinder. When I moved around to pull the dr. side rear plug wire, I noticed that it didn't appear to be pushed all the way down. The rubber boot that flushes up against the valve cover was maybe 3/8" away from valve cover. I pulled this wire and saw no, or very little change in engine performance. Aha! I pushed this wire back on (all the way) and drove the car about 15 miles with no problem. Then I drove it to work last night (about 70 mile r/t) again with no problem. I had not checked this basic thing before, because the plugs and plug wires are only about 6000 miles old. The person I bought it from had just done some work on the car before I got it (including plugs and plug wires). So I think either he didn't get this wire on all the way and it finally backed out enough to not arc from wire to plug, or maybe we snagged it and pulled it back a little when we changed the tranny a month ago. Although, I think that this plug has maybe been like this (to a lesser degree) for the whole year we've had it. It might be just because it has been running rough for a few days, but it seems to be running better than it has since we've had the car. It has always stumbled a bit when first taking off from dead stop, and it is not doing that now. So, in conclusion, I should have done what I always tell people I give troubleshooting advice to. That's to always check the easiest most common things first, even if, like in my case, they seem like they should not be the problem. Thanks to all that posted comments and advice. Diggler1971

I checked the air filter yesterday. I wasn't clear in my orig. post, but I checked for trouble codes with black and green plugs, but not with both plugged together at the same time. Black with car not running but ign on, green with ign off at first, then depress gas pedal (fully down, then to half throttle for two seconds), then start the car and drive for at least a mile at more than 7 mph. The green plug test did not produce any codes, and in fact did not even flash the cel unit I actually took off. It just blinked steady for the entire drive. I took this to mean "no codes present". When I drove it last night with the o2 sensor disconnected the cel came on, once it warmed up. That was helpful, because it confirms that the cel is working to come on when it gets bad or no info, at least from the o2 sensor. I'm gonna drive again this morning with the o2 sensor still disconnected, to confirm that the previous "better" performance last night was not just a coincidence. If that's the case, the problem should more likely lie with the air and/or fuel. That being the case, it would seem that since I already replaced the fuel filter and maf sensor with known good parts, the most likely place to start is vacuum leaks. Does that make sense? I'll spray around with carb or brake cleaner to see if the engine is affected. Also, is the IAC only a factor at idle speed, or could it affect performance whilst driving at higher rpm as well? I'll prolly go ahead and pull it, and clean it or replace from the parts car to rule it out. Sorry about the lengthy posts, but typing it out helps me put things together in my head better. Again any advice or opinions appreciated. Diggler1971 Oh, and I have an appointment with a local import repair shop to try to get them to diagnose the problem (hopefully with a diagnostic computer), but they can't get to me till Tuesday. If I haven't figured it out by then, I'll take it down there. But, it would be great to not have to take it to them, because they are a pricey operation. But they do good work.

The plugs and wires have less than 5000 miles on them and I will start checking the vacuum hoses. I disconnected the o2 sensor and drove the car just now and initially thought that was the problem. It was cold when I drove it and ran ok till warmed up as always, however it kept running normal for a good while after warmed up (maybe ten minutes). I thought, aha, that's it. But before I got it back home it started sputtering again. It seemed not as bad as previous drives today though. I will prolly go ahead and swap the o2 sensor off my parts car, just to rule it out. Also, I'm going to remove and clean the IAC, and try to check or replace the coolant temp sensor. I'm having a bit of trouble getting the plug off the coolant temp sensor, but I'm gonna try again tommorow. Thanks and any opinions will be appreciated. Diggler1971

Hi, I need some advice about a 92 Legacy that recently started running rough. This is my son's car and I'm trying to diagnose the problem without having driven the car much recently. According to him the problem just started as opposed to gradually getting bad. He initially told me about it, because we put a transmission in the car about a month ago and he thought the problem was the tranny. After driving it, I think it's not the tranny. The engine is stumbly, hesitant and low power. These traits are there even when idling in park. The problem seems to start after it warms up. I drove the car this morning and until it warmed up it seemed ok. I'm not sure, but I would geuss that it runs in a closed loop until warmed up. So this lead me to believe that one of the sensors that the computer gets info from after it's warmed up might be the culprit. So far I have changed the MAF, TPS, and fuel filter. I have a parts car and those were easy to change just to see if it helped. It did not. I also ran the on board diagnostics using the black and green plugs under the dash. It is producing no codes. This is the part that really confused me. This car is running pretty rough, there's no mistaking that there is some kind of problem. I can't imagine that this much disfunction is not producing any trouble codes. When first taking off, the stumbly effect is very noticable, it almost seems like it's going to die, but does not. Then while driving the problem is erratic sometimes running almost normal for short periods, sometimes surging or hesitating. Just basically running like crap. Anybody had a similar problem, or suggestions on what to check or change next. Thanks Diggler1971

I took of the crank pulley and center timing cover this morning. I discovered the timing belt tensioner only had one bolt in it. The other one had backed out and I guess fallen out when he hit the bump. The other bolt was only in there about three threads. It had pretty severely jumped time. The bolt that fell out was wedged between the water pump pulley and the cogged idler on the bottom. The numerous start attempts grinding on the bolt had ground on the water pump a little, but no functional damage. I inspected everything and luckily nothing was really damaged beyond superficial cosmetic wear. I put everything back in time and slapped it back together, and she fired right up. Previous owner did the timing belt change six months ago, and I guess got a little sloppy with these bolts. They are locktited now and should be good to go. Thanks all. Dirk

This is my 16 year old son's car. He went thru and intersection that grades down on both sides of the cross street to fast, and I guess the car went a little "Dukes of Hazard". He heard a scrape at the time and the car just died. I think it was a pretty harsh impact. Since then the motor will turn over, but not hitting a lick. That is, not even trying to start, like it would be if you had no plugs installed. I don't see any serious scrapes under the car, but generically I thought that maybe he yanked/cut a wire that cut the ignition system. But now I have had a day to look at it and I'm sort of confused now. I have good bright blue spark at the plugs. Fuel pumping after the filter and wet plugs after cranking. I have replaced with known good (from our parts car) the coil pack, igniter, and cam position sensor. I have tried putting a little ether in the intake, still nuthin. It appears that I have fire, fuel and air, but no start. I'm startin to lean toward a timing issue (ie jumped time). Although the timing belt is only about 6 months old and should not be worn to the point of jumpin time because of wear. I took the two side timing belt covers off to expose the cam pulleys and they do line up with the index marks on the back cover. But when they are lined up, I think the notch in the crank pulley(which I have not removed yet) should be lined up with the 0 degree timing mark, and it is not, even after rotating the whole shebang around several times. Tommorow, I'll remove the crank pulley and center timing cover and hopefully see what's what. In the mean time, if anybody out there has any ideas, suggestions, anti-depressants, whatever. I could really use some ideas in general. Not sure if I'm on the right track.