555jay

Pin labels above; diagram here.

Let's see if I can help.

Update for March 2021: I tried to order a pair of shocks p/n 721032064 from the SPFY site as linked above and they had to contact me to say there is only one unit in US inventory. I don't know how long one unit of a usually paired item will hang around, but that may look 'in stock' for a while.

I would buy one for EA81T; two of the price was right. Would prefer it to look as close to OEM as possible.

I picked up another MAF at the junkyard today and swapped it out. No change in behavior. :-\

Finally got back to this after several weekends out of town. I have it narrowed down to the MAF. I was able to get it running with the MAF unhooked with various lengths of the exhaust installed to check that at the same time. Final result is that with no MAF signal it idles fairly nicely at 500 RPM. It stumbled on throttle input when cold, but it ran for a full two minutes, and for the first time since I took possession, I turned off the motor with the key. Without the MAF plugged in, starts fine, idles fine, ECS light stays on. As it's running I plugged in the MAF connector, the ECS light went out, and the motor dies after a few seconds. I took apart the MAF to find no hot-wire like I'm used to in recent Subarus, but instead the only thing was a white plastic nipple hanging down from the top of the chamber before the flap. Is this correct, or did I miss something? Is this the correct MAF for this car? I blasted it with MAF cleaner all the same, but to no effect. What else can it try before I replace the MAF outright? Thanks again for all the input! edit: Just looked up how a vane-type MAF works. Not at all what I was thinking! LOL! So do these just go bad, then?

Thanks again for continued interest/support. Today, I switched out this thing, which I'm reasonably sure is the coolant sensor. This is the one I removed. I forgot to take a pic of the spare I put in, but of course it looked the same, just with a brassier finish. Made no difference; also no difference when the connector was just unplugged. I don't mind going to get a new one if they're known to fail. I still need to pick up a can of MAF cleaner and give that a once-over. Video update: The first several starts show how quickly it's stalling out now; faster than before. After the 30 second mark in that video, I was giving it throttle to try and find and mimic a fast idle, but the throttle response felt delayed and inconsistent, so in the video you'll see the revs bounce all over the place while I was reacting. Still, it misses a few beats, but it doesn't stall again until I let off the throttle completely.

Thanks for the interest. Here are some updates: Battery was bad. Was an older Optima Yellow Top, so the volts were getting low (11.8v-ish) but it could still crank all day because the amps were so high. Now replaced. Shows 12.4 - 12.6v steady. Original alternator questionable. Tricky to make the call since I haven't had the motor running long enough to let it ramp up its charging output. Regardless, I replaced it with a refurb EA82 60amp unit. Still slow to ramp up it's output, but upon starting with throttle input, it did go up to 14v and stay there. (didn't record that, sorry.) Until the motor dies again. Voltage at battery: Voltage at fuel pump connector: Okay, this thing? I unplugged it - no change. I swapped it out with my spare - no change. Tight quarters, of course. I can trace wires back as needed. I think I'm missing something here. How do I measure the pressure without a gauge?

Will pick up a pressure gauge I can install in-line and attack the connector with the probes again. What PSI will I be expecting? Will take a pic of the coil so you guys can proof it for me. This is the one screwed into the back of the radiator? Is it one I can check by disconnecting its lead?

I'm not sure how to do this while the connector is attached. I stuck the probes from my multimeter into the backside of the connector, but was unable to get a signal. I'm afraid to manhandle them in there, since the plastic is almost 30 years old. Is there a finesse move for this that I don't know about? I disconnected the alternator and the behavior was the same. Except I couldn't start it twice. I didn't try cleaner yet, but I did disconnect the plug at the MAF, and the behavior was unchanged. I took another video at the fuel pump, which is unremarkable, except that from the audio you can hear the fuel pump still trying to run just after the motor dies. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaopfE7pGZw If anything else seems out of place, let me know. Are there any adjustments I can make from here? There's a head on one of the pressure regulators.

So, this is what happens when I start it: Starts up fine, runs for a few seconds, then stalls out. Second start I rev it up to 2k, and it stalls out right away. The ECS light does not come on after either stall. Compression is good, spark seems good, everything seems to be plugged in. I changed the fuel filter since this video, but the behavior is unchanged. So, I'd like to compile a list of what to check/replace, preferably in order of cheapest/easiest to most difficult/expensive. Thanks!

Background: I bought a turbo BRAT last year with a blown-out headgasket. Long term plans are to rebuild/refresh that motor, but in the meantime, I found and installed another EA81T with good compression in it's place. This weekend I put in oil and coolant and turned it over several times, and found out I have several leaks. At the very least, the oil stayed clean and the coolant stayed green, so I'm going to address the leaks individually and see how that works out. Please lend advice to anything I'm missing. 1. Oil leak at the extra fittings on the factory sandwich adapter. I could not see where the oil was seeping, but it was running down past the oil-thermostat and dripping off the banjo bolt heads for the oil cooler lines. (Dripping on to the exhaust header! ) My best guess is that the top line, oil feed to the turbo, is leaking and I'll swap in some new copper washers, but is the sandwich plate itself ever a problem for leaking? And is the oil-thermostat supposed to have a washer, because I don't see one in the manual, and my other motor didn't have one. 2. Coolant leak at the fitting at the bottom front of the RH head, which goes back under the head and up to the turbo. I can't clearly tell if the leak is at the bolt or in the line as it joins to its ring-end. I suspect this line may have taken load-bearing stress when this motor was stored, as the cross-pipe of the header had also come loose as a result of the tie-down pressure. Again, I'll probably refresh the copper washers first, to avoid swapping out the pipe and dealing with the bracket bolt behind the up-pipe. 3. Other coolant dripping from crossmember. These are slow, but steady. I can not pinpoint a source on either side, but I suspect headgaskets. Since compression is good and coolant is clean, I wonder if it's okay to use radiator stop-leak with these motor/gaskets for external leaks. I had the same issue on my SOHC EJ25, and the stop leak fixed it right up, Let me know if I'm missing anything obvious. Thanks for all the help!

I got to meet a guy in November at a post-SEMA event at the local dealer who owns one back in his native New Zealand. He mentioned it after he complimented me on my RS coupe, and realizing it was coming from a 22B owner made it one of the best compliments my car has ever received.

Getting close to having all my loose ends tied up, but this seems to have escaped my cache of "before" pictures. I'm replacing the old cable because it's frayed anyway, but I can't seem to find a natural position for the bracket that's on the throttle-end of the cable to point it at the underside of it's seat. My guess is that's it's supposed to go just to the right of the flywheel peephole, but maybe I have it turned around and don't realize? Does it go on/over that arched bracket in the same spot? Anyone have a picture of this? Or, I can get a pic of the naked area to draw arrows on if needed. Thanks!

Thanks again for the info. I don't want to cut corners, but I also don't want to chase my tail trying to figure out parts that Subaru doesn't bother mentioning. It's probably in some other supplemental doc about the a/c.