1997reduxe

Hmmm. I am going up Austin soon to get a used differential for my 95 legacy wagon. I will be watching this for reports of success esp. in the urethane type bushings, as I'm not really having knocking probs but since the diff. would be out I might was well pack it, inserts etc... But would this pretty much be the same procedure for a 95? And if you were replacing diff., are there any other parts worth checking on or replacing? Thanks a lot. Dan

wow that is so great! i couldn't imagine how there was such a price difference. thanks!

I came across this place recently here in houston that sells tested used engines from Japan. i called them they don't have vin numbers on the engines and no exact mileage, which I don't like. He said estimated around 40-60k, for like 1200 including a 100 core charge, but you'd have to pay shipping to Ala. I was really only interested because they're not very far from the guy who I can get to swap the engine for 350. http://www.usedjapanmotors.com/

Oh damn I wish you were in Houston. I'd learn to replace it out on the street.

Well, to kind of answer my own question, I think in this case Estate means that they inherited or have a supplier who did, some parts from a previous seller who went defunct, bought out etc., and so they have these old parts lying around that still could be used. In this case the Estate ones have a date that they're from 1994, for 12 bucks apiece, but the regular new Moog ball joints are 30 per. That's the reason I was asking about the regreasing them. In the pic/promo that accompanies the ones on the site, they say Moogs have grease fittings, but are the ball joints on Legacies generally greased or serviced in that way? I could imagine the grease would be pretty well shot sitting since 1994. Thanks. '97

It seems like we're talking about two different belts, but my advice is be very careful about taking advice on this forum, as invaluable as it is. A lot of the people on here have vast amounts of automotive and/or technical experience, and it's easy to think from reading their experience that you can just pitch in and get it done... Which, you can, only nowhere as easily or quickly as they will. I did a timing belt job once, it took me about two weeks because all the way along I found the "other" parts I hadn't planned on, "other" tools I didn't know I'd need...Plus that when I reassembled it I aligned the crank pulley incorrectly and had to take it apart then do that part again. It was lucky it worked after my initial screw up. AND if you don't get the belt right you can screw the engine up. (Mine was a 97.) I learned a whole valuable lot though. Then I found a guy here in Houston who would do the TB job including water pump and all pulleys and seals tensioner AND reseal oil pump for 180 dollars. I'd never do it again. Just my 2 centavos.

yeah, wow that's great. just thinking how ratty my visors look lately. where'd you get those small red clothes-pins?

Well, I hate to chime in with the wife, but... REally, you didn't mention why you were doing the cooling refill to begin with? Had you worked on the cooling system? Replaced thermostat?

just posting a reply so i can keep track of this one, but thanks for all the info. i never knew how to fill the rad. either. And as to the punctuation, god forbid these people ever read Faulkner...

That's even better! Life is good...

Rockauto seems to be the best deal for parts you can get for close to if not actual OEM, I just got two radiator hoses there for example and they had actual Goodyear ones from a supplier who had surplus (here in Houston, came in like two days) and they were only 4.50 apiece, can't beat that. For real Sube parts I'd love to go to the local dealer(s) but they are either way on the opposite west or north sides of town, or even farther in Katy TX. The one that used to be 15 mins. near me in Dickenson (McRee) closed down after hurricane Ike, so that is a continual loss. They were real good about cheap service, suggestions too. So actually considering the gas cost to drive to local Subaru dealers it's easier and cheaper for me to order from this place: http://www.mikescarffsubaru.com/index.htm They used to be I think Auburn Subaru, that also had the website https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ But somehow that site must have gotten bought out by another Sube dealer in the Seattle area. Anyways, through some research I found the Mike Scarff subaru place and Jason, the online parts guy who used to work for the old Auburn place. I guess Scarff bought out the old dealer, but not the website. But Jason is always helpful and really knows his parts, always gives me a good discount as I mention that I'm an old customer etc. (The parts I just recently got for my timing belt change were the first I'd gotten from him in probably 6 years.) But I also go local, for example there's a great machine shop in Alvin that is negotiable on labor, (but not nearly as cheap as the new guy I found in New Caney.) But they have a parts place in house, so for things like brakes, which they can evaluate/turn rotors right there, I've gotten Wagner calipers when needed there as an example.

yeah, that makes sense cause those posts i copied said 95 to 99. if you really needed the deal look for one at the junkyard? but luck'ly i have the 95. definitely checking next paycheck. worth 75 bucks. though my autozone (2nd one, like the 2nd starter I have from them) is working still. good to have one around tho.

so i'm thinking you mean some "before and after" pics cause there's a bumper in the first one and... yeah. they can take a beating. mine i just ran a month ago on one quart of oil and got the tb kit changed and it's running amazingly great. just check it out or get it checked out. and switch to a better grade of alcohol...

I assume you already did the oil/graphite thing, right?

it seems weird both ends would break off at the same time? and they look in the one pic like different thicknesses? it would seem someone set them down and forgot them while maybe helping your mechanic? but get it checked. I always get used struts with springs for like 50 bucks. Try to get mileage on them.

I was looking at the ball joints on rockauto for my 95 Legacy, and they have Moog which are described as "Estate" from 1994? But for 12 bucks? It almost seems worth it to try them. Can you regrease the Legacy joints? It says they can be on the bj info/pic, but it just seems a copy of the other Moog ones, the new ones... ?

I just had meself a great laugh as I reread my old 97 post, esp the part where I just then (at 245k) had realized the car had a timing belt! But! I beg to differ with you, oh 987. It stands to reason to me that if my car was a 97, completed in 6/96, then that would suggest that they had interference parts in the factory in early 96. (Which my manuf date I remember surprised the hell out of me). And it's just my bent, (I have worked in factories) but if I were to buy a 96, particularly a late in the year one, I'd seriously assume that it was possibly an interference also. Until proven otherwise. But the reason I particularly brought up the manuf. year/month issue, was because obviously this topic, interference or not, mostly comes up in tandem with timing belt/kit replacement needs or intervals, for persons buying driving repairing. And it is critical for one to know the month/year to "guess" which tensioner to order with your kit. That's not even venturing into the "California" kits which I almost got duped by on Amazon recently. I point again to the fact that my 97 still had the "older" style of tensioner, which leads toward the fact that parts may have been interchanged at will or against inventory in the factory.

yeah, i'm presently looking for the mysterious posts that supposedly have the model numbers or whatever. That, or park down the street from Sube and ride my bike the rest of the way... Better yet, deny viciously that "THAT IS NOT A 95!!! NOT...NOT...NOT!!!" (Sound of stamping feet, flailing arms.) By then they ought to sell it. Or call the cops. Wait, here's a list with earlier post by GD that says it's 95 to 98: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128883&highlight=alternator+recall Grossgary says call it a 95: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=127852&highlight=alternator+recall One more thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124121&highlight=alternator+recall

So let me get this, if I go in there and ask for a replacement alt for my 95 wagon, they'll give me the 75$ one, or what do I need to ask for?

Why were you getting the oil pan replaced? Just wondering.

How much is that in Doleros?

Just my 2, but before I'd fix it myself or pay for someone to do it, I'd for sure contact Subaru hdqtrs and complain my assess off that they ought to fix. Since it was obviously done incorrectly or insufficiently two times under warranty with so few miles, maybe faulty crank originally? Somethin's up.

But I love Maine! Acadia is the place! The thing is, sorry for late reply, it's not leaking out of the front where it was anymore. I'm talking about a very small drip or drips. Actually, this car has a long and troubled history, New Hampshire beginnings, total salvage when I got it. It just seems to be something like the fill tube oil ring, valve covers, or oil pan. Occasionally I am smelling oil from burning on exhaust but it may be leftovers from past leak (that's what it did even a while back even before the Niagra of leaks started.) (Or rear main or separator, but hoping not.) More like the mid area on engine. But he seems to have done the tb kit well. Thanks for all the various views as per usual... But very happy lately. Can't believe it's still running as well as it is after running out of oil. I was amazed it made it the 55 miles home from his shop. Now to begin the rest of the maintenance!

yeah but i remember it was you John who told me how to find sticker a long time ago, and i had a 97 built in 96 that had the paper sticker along side of door. One never knows...

yeah, my 97 (built 96, interference) i sold at 330k, i estimate it to be probably nearing 400k now...