1997reduxe
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Hi all. I am confused. I remember once on my old '97 Legacy 2.2 when this guy changed the water pump because it was shot. He had trouble getting the plastic fitting/bowl to seal to the water pump, and had to order a new gasket from Subaru, which I believe was this copper-type one made to crush when you tightened the bolts. But now I am looking at this Aisin water pump which came with my timing belt kit for my '95 Legacy 2.2, and it only has a black rubber gasket. Am I remembering incorrectly back to my 97, is there a difference between the two years, or should I get another gasket? Thanks a lot. Dan
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it could be two separate problems. i used to have a 97 legacy 2.2 that had a radiator leak, and the only way i found that out was when i drove it all the way from PA to Mass and saw a little steam coming out of the front at a gas station cause now it was cold and winter. i never saw it when it was warm out.
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Don't kno if anyone noticed this, but when I searched Rockauto for this Stant one mentioned above, there is listed also one from Gates (#34012) which at least in the picture is identical, for $9.90. I called them and the woman said there's no correlation between use of same pic and that they are necessarily made by the same manuf, as any product sold may be supplied by various original makers. I don't suppose anybody's ever tried the Gates one? Thnkx
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I was waiting till you got the advice, cause compared to most here I'm a novice, though on my third Suby at present, but welcome to the neighborhood! You should tell your GF to register and poke around, the environment here is so cool and you can learn so much. Shawn has created a great knowledge base here. And remember, it doesn't hurt to become a donor at any level! BTW, certainly not to detract from this fave of my car sites, but you may want to check out this page that details Suby shops and a group in your area: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72790&highlight=minneapolis Good luck! '97
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see, the value of cars.com, is that it's a little different than craigslist in rather than just being a completely online service, it also aggregates the classified car ads from most small town or regional newspapers, so for in the case of that elmira ny car i bought it had only been placed by them in the elmira paper, so it had only been checked out by a few locals who didn't want it. awww-yeah!!!
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chiming in a little late on this one, but i did a lot of research on belts a while back when i got my kit for my 95. the contitech kits are supposed to be the best and have the high-saturated nitrile (HSN) belt instead of high-temperature neoprene (HTN) belt, which is what you'll normally find. also, i have used the cheaper ebay kits but i think they are cheaper knock off pulleys and water pump, where the ones that come with contitech (continental of old) are at least oem or better. (supposedly, but they do look very well built and the wp that came with mine is an Aisin which I believe to be original manuf. (strange thing is, i was told here on usmb a long time ago to look for the german belts by Conti, but when I got my HSN belt it says Made In Mexico, but I guess the tech is what's important.) i actually was surprised how much tech went into the belts. you might think that all belts, i mean across vehicles, would pretty much be the same, but there's a whole science to how they make the tooth shape, for example, and the same manuf. may make many different tooth depths, width, angles etc depending on vehicle co design. So, those cracks may mean not only that the belt could break, but that it has more play lengthwise and affect contact with the teeth, leading to more breakage potential other than just snapping. i forget where i found it, but i used to have a whole catalog online where they had the actual shapes of the belt teeth, depth, angles, etc. but if you pick around here you'll get an idea: http://www.contitech-usa.com/ lots of info there. ps--hey! i found it! if you go into the "media" page of this site: http://www.contibelts.com/prod_tbeltkits.asp they have a real big pdf that has the shapes etc. not that anyone's that into belts... '97
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look around in other areas than yours. i once drove from southeast pa to elmira ny to look at, and then drove back up, to buy one with i think 140k on it. it seemed like it had a bad axle but i bought it anyway, took it to suby and they said it was a tire. got one and that was it. here's another one on the denver list: http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2957945165.html it looks like a better deal, at least it runs, for 50 more. and also remember to check cars.com. i see about six in Co area some better prices than what you're seeing (though you're right God! the prices are high in your area!) and much better condition than that one. '97
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pardon my ignorance, but i only did the timing belt myself one time. the oil pump o-ring, that is only replaced if you take off the oil pump? I didn't do that last time, though I remember having the o-ring. i suppose then if you take off the oil pump you want to reseal the backing plate on it? Thanks again. '97
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Yeah, you know, I never knew about the 1/4" circumference thing? I always assumed the reason for having 4 matching tires was for the quality and tread type, meaning matching stickiness to the road, though now it is immediately obvious about circumference etc. The best thing to do is check alternate sizes you can use on that miata site, if the stock size is say 185-XX-XX then I look for that and the 175 (175-70-14) and 195 sizes they tell you, and search ebay religiously for fools selling their Michelins. Once I got 4 of exactly your size tires of Michelin Hydroedges (personally, in my opinion the best tire out there) practically new and delivered for 175 bucks. Then they last 4ever. I'll even watch for one in my size and buy it and look for another. But when I had absolutely no money when I moved down here to Houston, I put all kinds of mix n match of single used tires on here and there after my old Michelin X-ones wore through the metal to open air, and never had a prob. But I did buy all 4 at times too.
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Yeah, I've been all over the place on the years. My first Suby was my old girlfriend's '95, I started maintaining it around 90k and it made it to about 280 and died, most over the heartbreak of our parting ways (me and the Sube). My second was my '97, I think that one made it to about 325k while I owned it, and I stupidly sold it to some kid because it was overheating; I still see that darn thing running around sometimes... Thanks for reminding me to update my "donor" status, by all your suggestions. I actually planned to get around to getting this guy to replace belt/kit for me, already have parts, guess the car's letting me know sooner than later. I won't be driving it again till leak's fixed. I was thinking of driving it to the guy's shop, but it's leaking too fast for that. I do have AAA, which I've never used yet, so... In this case I'll be having the car towed FROM home. Thanks again. Will check that oil sensor now. And will change oil, well, I'll let him do that. '97
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Ok, so my 95 Legacy wagon 2.2 has sprung a leak. It seemed for a while to have had valve cover leaks, as I could see the oil residue around the covers, and eventually it was (I thought) leaking down and burning, but now I am thinking it may have been the beginning of this other leak I am now seeing, a major dripping gusher. Unfortunately, the other day I was driving and didn't realize about the leak till I got home and major smoke was coming out from under engine etc. I checked oil and it was like 3 qts low. So my main concern is that I may have permanently damaged engine, though when I reoiled and started it it sounds normal. And where the leak is coming from, whether it would be a big deal to fix, or (hopefully) it would possibly be solved by timing belt kit/seal job? I've attached a pic of the spot where the oil is dripping from...If anyone could please tell me where they think this might be from? It seems to be between the oil pump and water pump, if I remember my timing belt install correctly on my old '97. Thanks '97
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Hey all. I've been looking at a 93 wagon as a possibility for a replacement for my 95 Lsi wagon. (I think I burnt my engine the other day.) But I was wondering, are there many differences between the 93 and 95 EJ22 motors? I am wondering since I have a timing belt kit here I had been planning on using on the 95. But if I can get a good running car again then I can work on my always-wanted-to-flex-again engine replacement skills. Been a long time since I did that on a 66 VW bug, when I was only 16 and my bro was nine. By reading: "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step by Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot" Wow! I can't believe they still sell that book! Good days. Thanks '97
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132k is pretty low mileage for legacys. In my experience it all has to do with mileage of the car and how maintained it is. my old girlfriend who had the first legacy i drove had a 95, this was from 99 onward, bout 90k on it. she and her family knew nothing about maintenance so i started doing it, bought chiltons, etc. Found a guy who had worked for Suby as mechanic and started his own shop. Now that car could cruise. It was like new. then i got my 97 with bout 140k on it. when i drove down here to TX from PA, i set the cruise on 60-65 trying to conserve money and the car was literally packed with all the belongings i could cram in it, me and 4 cats, sometimes in carriers, and i was amazed i think i got like 31-32 mpg. the fastest i ever sustainably drove was one time when i had to give my friend Roger a ride from Houston to New Orleans to pick up a "car". (It was an old Horizon or Omni or something, it had been sitting so long in one place the tires were sunk in the dirt. I forget, something was living under the hood, and was mad we disturbed it.) But he let me drive to oh, about the Texas/LA border, we ate breakfast, steak and eggs, a leisurely time, till he told me he had to be in New Orleans before like X time. Then I had to drive like mad, 80 plus, to get there. But it did it easily. But I think that was when I had my new Michelin Hydroedges. Tire quality and balance, drive train maintenance, that's key. The 95 wagon I have now? I rarely go above 60, as having differential issues. Mostly just trying to keep this one on the road, but it still does run well.
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you got four tires? just checking. but that's a pretty good deal for 500 bucks. just the rear left quarter. it reminds me when i smashed into a gate last year with my wagon, and it caved in the hatch but nothing else and when i replaced it i just popped the new hatch in and it was like nothing happened.
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you got four tires? just checking.
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if you're gonna pay 350 or 500 etc for an engine, here's a whole wagon with 116k on it asking 650: http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/2865387803.html i know, it's a 1990, but maybe until you could get the engine replaced etc, and you'd have another car too. of course, i know cars up there on my little search are beaten into the ground. but, 116K! and yes, i even looked at canada craigslist... oh, i meant, 625.
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This is probably stupid, but there's fluid in the cooling system? You replaced the radiator? Not that it has anything to solve your wiring problem, but I used to have a real slow leak in my radiator. I would mostly remember to keep filling, but once I forgot or ignored for a long time, and it started overheating like what you're saying.