1997reduxe

Edit#2: YOu know, since I took the car out the other day, and I've changed the oil out of it, I noticed it seems a lot quieter in the rear. Of course, it's probably just the impending converse of having to take the whole thing apart...that and getting rid of most of the metal out of it. Edit: (Grossgary, can you PM or message me your contact info if you read this, believe it or not there's only a few of them listed. Might need to take you up on that diff.) yeah, i think I'm gonna go with the used differential. Or I'll check out the price of a kit. If I had a garage I'd go with the whole other project but I live in an apt., etc. I have a guy here in Houston who could probably do it and he's really affordable but I'm not sure he'd be into experimenting. But thanks for all this list's help. It's good to know it's an option. '97

i take a different approach. i live in a somewhat "ghettoey" apt here in Houston. Cars, apts broken in with regularity. My plan is, I leave so much crap in my car that the thieves are afraid they'll have to clean the car before stealing...

yeah...i got a kit from the import experts on ebay before, but as i said you gotta ask who makes the water pump, and back then i believe john here told me that you should ask them for the german belt they sell, which meant the Continental (Conti-tech) belt. It is strange because I thought I got the better Conti belt of course with my recent Conti kit, and then it said "Made in Mexico" on it. One of the things I learned in researching the Conti belts is I believe the best ones nowadays are HSN or "highly saturated nitrile". I believe now they are looking to make belts to last 200000 miles plus... http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/com/en/continental/pressportal/themes/press_releases/1_topics/fairs_events/salon_geneva_2005/ct_salon_geneva_en.html

yeah, but like i was saying, the interval to replace belts is like 80 or 100k, right? so the question isn't if they're good now, it's whether you'll feel comfortable with them 2 or 3 years from now. that;s all '97

john was nice enough to write me a very detailed message about this, so I'm posting just to keep my whole process intact: the drive shaft has 2 sections, the front piece fits into the rear of the auto trans and the rear main seal for the trans actually seals against the first piece of the drive shaft . so you have to leave that in place. the first section ends at a carrier bearing, support bearing, and a cross member that holds it in place. this is all part of the front section and must stay. the rear section has 4, 12mm, bolts and nuts that hold it to the front section and 4 more that hold it to the rear diff. it is a long pipe with a u-joint on each end and a flange that bolts to the other section / diff. it is east ot remove . the rear diff is a little more difficult to remove but still can be done. the only thing you have to do is leave the axle splined ends in the hubs so the wheel bearings done fail. the outer CV joint of the axle has a splined piece of the long middle shaft that fits into the joint of the outer piece of the axle that fits in the wheel hub. there is a cir-clip that keeps it in place. if you remove the axle, and then the boot, you can hold the long shaft and hammer on the outer joint and the cir-clip will give up and the2 pieces will separate. the wheel hub piece has to be re-installed in the hub and torqued. i have always thought you could figure a way to do this with out removing the axle from the car by i have never tried. once the axles have been ''modified'' and the stubs are back in place in the hubs, there is no real reason to remove the rear diff except for weight. and that is only 30 lbs??, maybe less, so that's work you don't have to do. you might review the info at http://opposedforces.com/parts you see just what i/m talking about with the axles. good luck, john

Yeah, those wedges are cool, but to be honest, there was a period when I was rather inebriated, rather often, and I locked my keys in so often I could bend a hanger now almost in my sleep to the right proportions. It can be done, you just need one with the proper stiffness and it takes like two bends, one opposite then back to the knob. Voila!

It's just my opinion, but if one idler was bad, then I would have immediately replaced all of them, and water pump etc. I just got a great deal off of ebay for $200, where I got a Continental pro timing belt kit with all idlers and new tensioner, (I'm assuming all are oem or better as that's how the Conti parts are; I even called Continental and spoke to one of their engineers, he seemed really shocked that a customer would even find his name, let alone call), and he told me the wp was Aisin, which it was when I got it. The way I look at it is that since you have all those parts off of the front of the engine, take the time and money to do it right, as then you can prevent the future need to take apart, to for example have to go back in and replace a cheapo water pump, AND have to take the chance on some yahoo doing it if you are out in the boonies, etc. When I was looking around for my tb kit I talked to one parts dealer who said one time he had a pulley seize on him, and it actually pulled out of the entire block, ruining the engine due to the big hole in it. The thing I've found about suby oem parts is they are so well engineered they last an awful long time, even when they're a long way toward failure. Just don't take advantage of it (I tell myself) '97

another post on same topic. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=123480&highlight=remove+drive+shaft

I did find the old post I had done on similar topic a long while back. (But this was on my old 97 car.) just for info's sake.) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97335 '97

but not as beautiful as that damned bread bag idea. I only wish i'd have heard that a few months ago! i coulda gotten a few more years outta my bad axle...

Wow, that's a great deal. I always wanted a Forrester. Last one I saw down here for sale in one of these repair.sell lots we have in Houston was like 7000 bucks. I hope it's fixable w/o the engine

Ok, here's my story. (This is my third Legacy I've driven/maintained, so I know the typical maint. routine). When I bought my present 95 car, about 2.5 yrs ago, I had absolutely no vehicle, and HAD to get a car so I bought it even though it was a total salvage, had been hit in the rear (repaired,) and was locked into FWD with the fuse. It was very nice inside Lsi, sunroof, etc, when I drove it, other than the ant farm in between the rear rugs, mats, etc, and as soon as I drove it it ran so well I knew I wanted it. It's run pretty much without incident for about 2.5 years, little things like starter, alternator, now it may need a battery soon. (It still turns over.) I have run it with the FWD fuse in the entire time, and don't plan to even try taking it out. (I live in Houston and don't really care about AWD, unlike when I lived in PA) But, recently, like about 6 months ago, it has had this growling thing in the rear, which I thought it was a wheel bearing but it never gets much worse, and I think it's the differential cause I took it to a shop to change diff. oil and there was a lot of metal in the oil and on the plug. It quieted it somewhat after the oil change, but I'm sure it's going to get worse. My question is, since I am going to leave it in FWD, can I really remove certain parts (like the differential, rather than rebuilding or replacing with a used one?) I remember another post on usmb a long time ago where someone referenced leaving (I think) the drive shaft, that you had to keep in because certain fluid, (maybe the transaxle?) would escape? I mean, has anyone really done this? Or should I just get the diff. rebuilt? Thanks for any help. '97

I know this is an old topic, but this one perhaps a little more specific? I know NGK plugs are the way to go, but when I look on ebay I see a few different ones for sale. Model numbers: BKR6E11 7090 2756 seem like the good old fashioned ones. Then there are the Iridiums? Any preference as to best for a 95 Legacy Station wagon? Thanks much all. '97

Actually, I thought it was funny that in the one pic from the rear it looked like a sedan with the rear trunk off. One person's ghetto is another's home... "So they loaded up the hacked-off-rear ghetto trailer-park Suby And they moved to Beverlee!!!"

Perhaps Dylan I could bring mine out to your shop for some custom work... I know, it'll cost, but it's worth it.

There it is. Finally. Reading helps...

Maybe we could turn this thread into a "You show me yours, I'll show you..." Here's my present Sube. and this is NOT a beater, THIS IS MY REAL CAR!!! (Note the front-left fender as well as the rear...)

Can anyone redirect me (again) to that online search engine of used car parts? Thanks so much. 97

Well, in my experience I know those sensors going cause a kind of panic, but I think they kind of go mostly around 140 or so, and then no more. But you never no. Yes, the AWD is great, one of the best low cost vehicles, in snow. Kind of one of the first SUVs, at least the wagons. I was rereading your first post, and actually getting new tires is one thing I look forward to on these cars. Cut the rotors/brake job all around, all struts sound, and new tires? Woo-hoo!!! Of course, have always been a fan of michelins, particularly the hydroedge, WHICH I KNOW OF A GREAT SET FOR CHEAP BUT WILL POST NOTHING AS TO THEIR WHEREABOUTS ON THIS VULTURES NEST!!! Good luck for him. Lotta miles ahead. Maybe for the next person. '97 (now 95)

Yeah you're gonna love this place. I maintained my old gf's 95 legacy for a few years, then bought my 97 with 140000 that drove like it had a bad axle, turned out to be a tire, for 2500. ran it to i think like 320k, and scared of overheating probs so sold it to some poor neighbors for 350 to be nice to them, with warning about heat etc, and they promptly got it fixed and sold for like 800. just recently bought a 95 wagon with 130000 cause i was kind of stuck with no car for 3500, and the guy let me make pmts. the only question about whether to fix that or not for me would be the body and interior quality. If the 2.5 (it has 2.5, right?) runs well, i'd keep it on running. you could always just get a 2.2 and replace at some point if necessary. at 140 the legacy just begins...

Hey all. Long Time Gone. Can anyone direct me to that great smorgasbord of used engines trans etc site that's out there? Bookmarked before, but then lost prev. whole drive... If anyone wants to turn this into a thread I thought we could add it to the manual pages? Unless that's already been done, I know I've been part of this discussion before, then a simple linky dinky would do for me. Good week, all. '97 (now 95)

Let's not say goodbye, let's make it until we meet again. Because WE MOST DEFINITELY WILL!!! Had a lot of VWs in the past, mostly like rabbits, etc, and while they ran great for a long time, after about 70-80 k they had all kinds of electrical probs. But I really hope they've improved since then. Probably have, most cars have. 2004, that's great. I just got a 95 Legacy wagon with 135k, but it's good for a while. I was desperate, and lucky this car was on the lot. Have fun!!! '97

If you look up he posts made by me, i think you'll find a lot of info on this. It was of a great concern to me at one time, cause my legacy was a 97 made in 96, and i needed to know. '97

Hey all. Recently bought a 95 2.2 wagon, i believe its the LS or LSi, forget which, but it has driving lights. Nice car. But, the weird thing is, the driving lights don't work, (checked fuse and its good), and the two interior lights only work in the fully on position, they don't work in the mid position where they turn off when doors are shut etc. Shut doors and theyre still on. Is there a relay or something that has to do with all these three light systems? Thanks for any help, Happy New Year all! '97

The first thing I thought of when i saw this thread was the brakes. And/or whether you had the same tires all around. I'm on my third legacy now, and the brakes and mismatched tires can cause a lot of weird vibes etc. When i bought my second one, i was convinced it needed a new axle it vibrated and howled so, but i bought it anyway as was a good deal, and when i took it to suby to get checked it was a tire. BUT, at 300+K miles you have to realize all brake parts have been through a lot of wear, and i had for example my left front caliper making a lot of intermittent probs etc.