Hodaka Rider

Maybe, I think that's the right idea, anyways. My theory was that a slight bit of moisture was in the tach head, and cold enough weather would freeze it temporarily. Never did take it apart, but moisture-chasing lube may fix it.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=505723&highlight=ej22T There ya go. It's mostly talking about the EJ22(turbo), but it has info on the newer EJ20, as well. Lots of reading to find actual answers. Here's more head/block info: http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/turbo/ejcalcs.html

Strange you couldn't find anything. The second sticky on this page is "Frequently Asked Questions: Tires Wheels Lift Kits Mods for offroading Soobs." Lots of info there on lifts and tranfer case mod as well. There is also a thread on the second page of this forum called "T-case pictures" which contains some good info.

Here's the car I didn't clear off:

How's he plan on stopping the tires from tearing the fenders off after the first few inches of suspension compression?

Funny thing is, I cleared the snow off the two cars, went away for a week, and it looks like that again now!

Again, I live way closer to tundra than you, and my carb'd Soob never needed any physics defying voodoo to run good. I understand how IC engines work, and maintained it accordingly.

OK, one more time. I'm going to try to teach how carbs work. The fuel is delivered to the float bowl by the fuel pump. Once the float bowl is full, the float stops more fuel from coming in by closing the float valve, or needle valve. Increasing fuel pressure high enough will force the valve open and force more fuel into the carb, but it will most likely flood the engine as well. Fuel enters the intake manifold by being mixed with air in the carb. The air is drawn through the carb venturi at high speed, creating a vaccuum. This vaccuum is what draws the fuel through the jets in the carb - get it? The VACCUUM draws the fuel out of the float bowl, through the jets, where it mixes with the air, and then continues on down the manifold runners, past the valves, etc. Increasing your fuel pressure or volume on an otherwise stock engine (ie: one that works well with the stock carb in 99.9% of all cases) WILL NOT GIVE YOU MORE POWER. If you change the jets, you may get more power. If you put on a different carb, you may get more power. If you increase the horsepower potential of the engine substantially and are constantly running the float bowl dry (you aren't quite at that level - maybe add another 50-100hp) you might want to look at fuel delivery. And before you say it, the stock carb won't provide enough airflow to support that level of horsepower anyways. Please read this slowly until you understand. By the way, if you think you live in the "arctic tundra", you should try coming up here some time. I've seen weeks of weather way worse than you see, and physics still apply here.

Then sell them up here in Nelson. Should be able to get $2000 or more for a decent turbo Soob up here.

Or, you could again ignore how a carb'ed fuel delivery system actually works, and go of on your own whim.

That's the popular opinion. Do you know for sure that the t-stat is sticking? When was the rad replaced last? How about the waterpump? Is the fan working properly?

Well, this morning I decided it was time to dig out a little! We're only driving the one car right now, and the others have accumulated a bit of snow!

Unless you truly are running the float bowl clean (not likely on a basically stock EA-82) the most you would need to do is re-jet it. Again, being a basically stock EA-82, it's not likely you need to re-jet. If you truly are hearing a whistling from your carb, you might have a problem there.

Are you using the defrost setting for the heater control? That'll do it - the HVAC system uses the A/C to help defrost the windshield - don't remember the exact why of it.

Werd.

Yup, FT4WD has it. And built engine. Uh-huh. Maybe look at the XT6 susp, but the stock rear torsion setup can be made good. Full cage, seam welding, fuel cell, lightweight seats, stripped interior, front airdam, small spoiler on trunk (just a lip, like on early BMW 3-series), brake cooling ducts, rear discs, rear LSD, 2.5" exhaust w/ 1 7/8 primaries, umm... Then give it to me.

Legacy GT's weigh considerably more than the Loyale. They are not light cars pretending to be heavy, they ARE heavy. Think of your Loyale with 3 or 4 of your heftiest friends riding alond with you. That's a Legacy with an EA-82.

Good info, Will. To all other posters or would be posters: if you think you know something different (Will and mikeshoup have quoted factory service manuals) please provide actuall proof in the form of factory part numbers or TSB's. We don't want false information ruining this important thread. This should be a candidate for the USRM forums, so maybe false info should be removed?

Fine. Go buy one. Wrap another soob around a telephone pole or a car on the freeway, and buy a v8 full of mistakes. We will chuckle all day while you achieve 30 hp/L in your super-duper American hot-rod from the 70's, and then say out loud "phenominal. He has found his dream, all the while notwithstanding our reliable (extremely, but for timing belts and headgaskets -and maybe the ill-conformed EGR) car that we have now gotten to 50hp/L in purely stock form, even without adding a custom canuter valve to hasten the inlet of obnoxious gasses."

Teh bettar one

Yah, but he's also welding right beside the gas tank, if I remember my Toyotas right.

I dunno. One time I tightened my belt like two extra notches. I SWEAR I weighed less that day. Until I tried to breath, and had to let the belt out again.

Umm, nope. Not the Loyales. Very strange problem.

removed

OK, I wasn't aware that the JDM EJ20 was a closed deck block. Sounds like a great swap!