Hodaka Rider

Needs plexi/lexan with NACA ducts.

Nice shots Ed! Looks like someone had a bead blowout. Ouch! Not that it really matters when you're having so much fun, but does anyone have any good giantkiller stories?

No, not the ones in the head. Although, I usually smooth them out while I'm cleaning up the ports/chambers.

Measure the end of your spark plug (diameter) and the entire threaded length. I'm willing to bet that the math would put the entire threaded end of the plug at maybe a little more than 1cc - maybe 2cc. Plus, it's partly hollow. So, here's what you do: Drill the plug holes in the head out to the same diameter as the plug where the hex for the socket is. Now hold the plug in place in the head, as far in as you can, and glue it there with crazy glue, epoxy, or bubblegum or something. You've just reduced your combustion chamber by approximately 1cc! Yay for you!

I would be a little worried about the possibility of carbon deposits on the plug threads that are now protruding into the CC. Could make the next plug change difficult. Also, those threads may provide some nice hot spots to facilitate preignition.

Also, on SPFI/Carb intakes, think about that long tube of a manifold the air/fuel has to go through to get to the heads. Ouch. There's a maximum flow killer right there. You could get it opened up with an extrude-hone type process ($$), or attempt to cut it open, port it, and weld it back up ($$, time, weldin skillz). I would think the MPFI setups will show more gain from some port work (when combined with manifold work) then the SPFI/Carb setups. Also, remember that these engines are already putting out a fairly decent hp/L number. A 5.0 Mustang V8 of the same era (mid 80's) as the EA-82 puts out less hp/L. Those engines respond pretty well to port work, but the EA series already has fairly good flow. EA-82 SPFI: about 50 hp/L Ford 5.0 HO V8 (1987): about 45 hp/L

Sweet, well order a set for me, too. Stock thickness. I'll even pay you a finder's fee for being the first person to get a set out of Cometic without any hassle. In fact, I'm sure there's three or four others here who would do the same.

Just based on personal experience, by NGK's again. Save the extra money you don't spend on Platinums, and put it towards a good set of plug wires: Magnecor. None of this will make any more power than good stock stuff, but If your current setup really is that old, you will notice a differnece. Again, buy the NGK's the owners manual lists, and a set of Magnecor wires. New cap and rotor too, of course.

Ahem...http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61824&highlight=cometic

Bigger= more heat EMI/RFI insulation, good for high-temp applications, and they also have a larger-diameter core - good for high-output ignition systems. Actually, it's all on their website. I recommend the KV-85, especially for the turbos. In reality, though, any one of them will outlive most other brands and the core will not break down.

Depends on how low the oil was. I have an engine I'm rebuilding where the oil was low enough that the pump was starved and seized, taking out a t-belt with it. This prevented major damage (rod through block), but the engine still needs a full rebuild.

Yeah, not sure who his reply was aimed at. Whatever. I remember what it was like to be 16. But I don't remember it being like that. Maybe he just needs to hang around for awhile and learn, instead of shooting his mouth off.

Mmmm...what?

I would suggest that with the SPFI, better compression, and the proper cam grind, you should be able to come close to or hit the 100hp mark.

Not as cool as Zap's, but:

OH MY MONKEYS BALLS, MY HLA SUXORS! Sorry, had to do it!!! Lots of good info on the board here for the HLA issues. Oil pump seals/gaskets (particularly Mickey Mouse) and those pesky O-rings up top. Or try MMO or similar to de-varnish.

I bought a Forester. Outback felt too big, Imp definitely felt too small.

Wow, I saw this thread was still going, so I came back to check on it expecting someone to have bought one or something, but I guess people are still trying to sort out the differences and +/- factors of the different generations on Soob engines. Maybe we need a new topic in the FAQ for noobs? Not that most of them would read it, or even do a search. Just funnin'

Hey Rick, I'd like to PM/email you about something. (but can't, seeing as you have them both disabled) Go ahead and shoot me an email at miked@subarubrat.com so we can chat.

Yay! Go Andy!

This is one of the reasons I'm trying hard to find the '88-'89 5spd D/R. I plan on doing the EJ swap eventually, and the '88-'89 trans has a neutral safety switch. Hook that into the remote start (I'm pretty sure this allows use of an "automatic transmission" kit instead of a manual trans one). Other than the transmission question, If you figured out all of the harness issues for the swap, installing the remote start should be cake.

I do. Now if only I could spare the $$$. Blown EA-82 SPFI anyone?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mercedes-benz-supercharger-eaton-m62-blower_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33741QQhashZitem280044139244QQihZ018QQitemZ280044139244QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Definitely dual-carb heads. And that exhaust is @ss. Fix it!!

Wow. Did no-one else see this? Put the SVX engine into the OBW. Mo' funner car instantly. Oh yeah, did someone say forced induction?