Hodaka Rider

bgd: watch the video in the link. Yes, they are spendy - but oh-so-sweet.

Hmmm . . . Does anyone leve close to Mary? Might be helpful to have someone close by come and look if possible.

Under what conditions do you find the lights to be less than ideal? FWIW, I've driven quite a few different cars with different lighting setups over the years, and I find my '02 Forester to be VERY good. The only better setup I've had was an H1/H4 setup on my E30 BMW, which was unfortunately not DOT legal.

Every car I have owned does this. A major car magazine (don't remember which one) commented on this a while back. Here's some theories: 1) Tire sizing can vary something like 3% from what's on the sidewall. If a manufacturer made the speedo 100% accurate with OEM tires, and a consumer got a ticket after putting on different tires that happened to be on the high side of the spec, there could be a lawsuit. 2) There is a conspiracy that the government is involved in. When they changed the speed limits on most roads from 50 to 55, they made all the manufacturers doctor their speedos to read 5 high, so that people were still only going 50.

That's what I thought. I have read reports of the turbo going bad in those things in stock tune, and in at least one case, the engine blew right after replacing the turbo! The tech drove it out of the bay, it was idling, and then the engine RPM's skyrocketed until it seized! Anyways, any part you change on your engine can cause problems. I have used K&N on several vehicles with only positive results. Your mileage may vary.

I've seen that before, too. But only in cases where people had not re-oiled them properly, or had not let them dry properly after washing. What are the specific circumstances surrounding the ones you have seen? Were they cone-type, or drop-in?

Ummmm. . . except premium fuel does not automatically equate to a performance gain. It can actually decrease your performance. On the other hand, if your car has an adaptive/learning computer that will allow timing increase to make use of that fuel, you may see an increase. ie: WRX.

Any time now! C'mon up, we'll go visit a mine or two, might find some mud, maybe even already find some pockets of white up high already! I've got a friend with a stock 4-Runner who wants to see some of my favorite spots, non-lifted rigs OK. BTW: Nelson, BC, Canada. Google map it if you don't understand.

The 'nub' is actually a fin, and it helps split the flow into the two runners in the head itself that run to the two separate intake valves. I would guess that it helps more at low engine speeds than high, so getting rid of it will probably lose you a bit of response at lower rpm's. EA-81's and EA-82's both had these fins. (not sure about turbo variants, though)

Actually, Hood River is only about 10 miles further from me than Seattle. I'm in Nelson, BC. Actually, it's kinda funny that when I tell people in WA/OR that I'm from BC, they automatically assume I'm from Vancouver area. I'm at the other end of the freakin' province!! It's like Seattle, WA to Coeur D'Alene, ID for distance from me to Vancouver, BC. Anyways, not sure if i'm going to make it, but we'll see.

50 Lbs wheel and tire together. Dude, for the rest: I was talking approximate. And I think I came out pretty close.

Most of them did. Yours, however, is a GL-10. One of the portlier GL/Loyale versions.

So, I'm not sure what you're trying to get at here. Are you trying to say that you think the Loyale only weighs like 1500 lbs? 'Cause that's retarded. Sorry, but there is no way you can actually believe that. Go ahead and get a picture taken of you and your friend lifting the rear off the ground - I'd like to see that. My Loyale door tag reads GVWR: 3665 lbs. A base Loyale should have a curb weight of 2400-2500, as I stated elsewhere on the board. Curb weight vs. Gross weight (GVWR). Again, totally different things. For the record: doors weigh about 40lbs each, rear gate prolly more like 75. Engine with fluids: 300. Transmission: probably 300. Seats: 40 each front, about 60 for rear. Carpet and sound deadening: 100. Wheels and tires: 50 each corner. Struts: 25 each rear, 30 each front. Brakes: say 10 lbs per corner. Bumpers: 25lbs each, Glass and lights: 100lbs, Wiring harness: 100lbs, various interior bits (dash, headliner, seatbelts, etc): 200lbs. Wait, we're at almost 2000 lbs already, and I haven't even added rear diff, axles, driveshaft, engine cradle, tranny x-member, etc. And of yeah, the body shell. A bare body shell probably weighs in at about 400-500 Lbs. Stick that in your 'Alice-in-Wonderland' hookah, Caterpillar.

Curb weight and gross weight are totally different. Curb weight is the vehicle with all fluids and standard equipment (no winches, swampers, and tools ), and the gross weight is the vehicle loaded to rated capacity.

I think he said "drifting". Lesson learned: lifted rigs are not meant to be drifted.

Moderate lift is not adjustable. I took pics and such when I installed mine, let me know if you get stuck. I had offered to re-write the instruction book for them, because it kinda lacks, but they were already deep into the thought process of stopping the Subaru stuff at the time I think. I did mine with some help from an impact gun, made it easier. What kind of tool / shop setup do you have?

+ eleventybillion A lot of the others would get you lots of laughs. Especially the "EJS SUK" (reference to other posts on EJ power testimonials)

Straight vented Brembos would be fine. I personally like the slotted ones, as I stated, but not everyone agrees. If you decide to go with a more aggressive pad (one that likes some heat in it), then slotted will help give you more bite.

Not that can of worms again My money (for what it's worth) is on stock or slotted. No drillies. Even on cars with proper cast holes or factory drilled holes, you're asking for trouble in the snow belt, too.

I put 3-point belts in the back seat of my '69 VW Fastback. All mounting points were there from the factory, and this in a car that did not yet have inertia real belts. I also looked into doing it in my '83 GL 4x4, and it too had all the mounting points.

I think his point is that in the older cars (Loyale, GL, etc) the EJ-22 is a huge improvement over the stock engine. Keep in mind that a Loyale only weighs about 2400-2500 Lbs (curb weight) whereas even the 1990-1993 Legacy that most of these EJ-22's are coming out of weigh 2900-3200 Lbs (again, curb weight). That works out to around 18lb / hp, which is actually not bad. Put in a 2.0T or 2.2T, and the numbers can easily be brought into the 11-13 lb / hp range. Also, compare the engine output for it's displacement. 61 hp/l is not too shabby. Compare that with say a 2006 Mustang GT, which makes 300hp out of 4.6l = 65 hp/l. At 3500lb, each pony has to push 11.6 lb. So obviously an ej-22 Loyale won't be beating it in a drag, but it will surprise it (especially if the Mustang driver doesn't know how to launch, and the Loyale starts out in 4WD).

What I'm trying to do, I guess, is give the car the ability to handle a load without losing as much ride height. I have lots of experience with suspension in different cars, and I know that simply changing the struts and sway bar will not help the fact that with my family and gear in the car, the rear end sags. The springs are what supports the weight of the car. That being said, I'll look into the King Springs, but I don't really want a lift either. Maybe the STi setup? Does anyone know how much the car will be lowered with the STi stuff? PS: jon38iowa - "I don't think my springs are at all soft" - that's the effect of the shocks controling the oscillations of the suspension differently than the stock setup. If you were to take measurements with stock struts and the new ones, both with the same load added to the car, you would find that the change in ride height is the same with either setup. Firmer shocks= firmer rider, stiffer springs= different reaction to suspension loads (which in turn can mean firmer ride).

Well, there's one in town here that has a nice rack on it, but I'm pretty sure it was custom made by a local company: http://www3.telus.net/alfab/

OK, I've seen lots of votes for the GR-2's (here and elsewhere). But what have people done to address the fact that the springs are a little on the soft side? Anything?

Well, I guess I should mention that I do not want to lower the car at all. I need to keep the ground clearance for logging/fire roads when I'm not in the Loyale.