Hodaka Rider

Yes, you have to split the case.

Compressed air= bad! I always let mine dry in such a way that they have good airflow top and bottom (ie: set it on edge). If you let them sit flat, the water will settle to the bottom, and the top will appear dry. If you put it in the car damp, the cotton can get sucked through the mesh, leaving holes in the filter. If you had an extra air filter box from a J/Y car, you could rig something up with a computer fan (80mm or 120mm) to blow air though the filter overnight (low pressure!) and dry it out good that way.

I now have a 5yr old and a 9yr old. We have a Forester for our daily driver, and it has loads of room for us, even for longer trips (a week or so) and camping (with a Yakima box). So, no, don't ignore "whoever said that a Forester is a good family car".

When I was young, we had a VW Rabbit (1978 Diesel). We went on lots of trips with it, all five of us. An Outback should have more than enough room for any family of four, or even four adults.

Nick is right. Subaru headlight wiring is a little different than your average Ford, GM, and most other vehicles. When the headlight switch is turned on, +12v is sent to the common wire in the headlights. The ground is then switched to the high or low beams through the dimmer switch.

Do it with an X pipe or H pipe cross-over. Skip did it, said it worked good (his was an X with a long center.

Yup. I pondered this many years ago when I had both a VW Fastback and an EA-81 wagon. No dice.

Sweet! I was just looking at those.

OK, this is all well and good, but the actual intake runners are the same diameter - at least between the '83 EA-81 manifold and the '93 SPFI manifold I looked at. That being said, if you are putting SPFI onto the EA-81 engine, you will gain power and get better mileage (assuming eveything is in tune).

NSA monitoring box.

I have no words.

When the alternator goes, the brake indicator comes on with the alternator (or battery) light. This appears to be by design. Happened to me last week.

You should seriously look at taking the inland route all the way. Just cruise 97 straight to the gorge. A few minutes south of Bend, there is a nice State Park (LaPine State Rec Area.) - cabins, yurts, and tenting spots. Showers. And you could spend DAYS running the trails near there. If you want, you can take 26 out of Madras, then on to 35 near Trillium Lake, and end up right at Hood River when you hit the gorge. Lots of mountain driving that way.

Is this the car in your sig? It's an OHC engine? Maybe try a Weber. Properly tuned, they can give you better mileage as well as more power.

I concur. You may run into the odd person who will try to tell you they don't fit right or something, but in my experience (I used to sell Magnecor) these people have not fitted the wires correctly (ie: not read the instructions).

Samsung SyncMaster 173p + LCD. 17" 1500:1 contrast ratio. Camo looks great!

That's weird. It sure looks camo green on my monitor.

Is this in the hatch? Seems pretty low MPG. My '83 got 26 US/ 31 IMP MPG on the highway cruising 70-75MPH (trip to Oregon). 300,000 km on engine/carb, decent tuneup, rebuilt disty, new plugs, new fuel filter, valves actually could have used an adjustment, one of the last good Accel coils. Plus, I was running Pugs at the time with 195/60/14 's and carrying a load of camping gear and tools. What is the state of tune (recent parts) on your car?

I believe the answer to that would be no. Unless the R-180 was available in a lower numeric/higher gear. (but then you're into $$ for custom work to get it in). What kind of mileage are you getting (or L/100km)?

(puts on Pirate 4X4 mask) That's such booty fab. (mask off) Sweet. Disposable flares!!!!

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/bumper.html This stuff works AWESOME! Pics to come (I just need to finish)

OK, I'm responding to my own post. Checked codes: P0442 (minor evap leak - Pending code: someone probably didn't tighten the gas cap one day) Checked voltage w/engine running: 11.91 ouch Pulled connector off Alt while running: lights went off. Re-connected: lights came on. Looks like the dealer used-car warranty is going to come in handy.

OK, I found similar posts, but just wanted to re-hash it. 2002 Forester Sport, Brake and Battery indicator lights stay on after starting car. At first, they would go out, but now they seem to stay on. Things I've tried: - checked brake and clutch fluid levels: OK - checked battery voltage (not running): 12.6V - e-brake handle is going down fine - DRL does not operate when indicator lights are on. Things I have not tried: - re-seating Brake fluid cap. - Actually looking at e-brake switch - battery voltage when running Car supposedly had 80% front / 100% rear on brakes when we got it a little over a month ago. We asked for the 96,000KM service to be done, but it does not look like the brake system was flushed.

Maybe, but Interco's website lists them both at 27.5" overall diameter. I guess if the 15's are a bit narrower than the 14's, they might balloon a little more - but I doubt they're narrower. I second the notion that the Forester struts have a different perch height than the outbacks.

From http://www.racetep.com (tuning turbos for a LONG time): This particular quote was from their Starion page, for a car with a 2.7L engine. I would think a 1.8L putting out WAY less than 300hp would be fine with a 2.25" to 2.5" system.