Hodaka Rider

*sigh* I love rear wipers. Especially on a coupe or sedan. Extremely functional, too.

Very peppy engine. Lots of tuning potential. http://forums.tdiclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=13

Zap: I've got all the equipment and know-how for this. Just finished up a Wedding DVD for a friend with tape from two different sources, plus a slide show set to music. Be happy to do this!! I have a US mail address, plus my bro in Beaverton may be coming up here soon. Just say the word!

Depends on type of tools used, amount of rust, etc. I can see it taking an hour or less, or several hours if you run into problems (just like any other work on an older car). Bottom line, if your fronts are shot, check the $ options at the parts store. I say, if the slotted are only about $5 more a piece, go for it. If you can get your hands on the rear set (j/y or marketplace forum), go for that, too. Whatever you do, don't forget a full flush/bleed of the fluid, and check your pads, lines, and suspension components while you're under there!

One more note, organic pads are still widely used in street applications (usually the least expensive option at the parts counter is the organic). In race applications, though, organic is gone (most people quoting the "gas free" argument are often getting the information from a race-oriented article, ie Williams Performance Friction).

Notice I didn't say that he should get slotted to help with cooling and off-gassing. I had a different reason for suggesting the slotting. Also, it's interesting to note that even though new pad compositions do not have the same gassing problems that older ones have, performance and racing brake packages still usually come with slots - could this mean something? If you check the FAQ's of reputable brake manufacturer's web sites, you'll find some answers. They usually say nothing about gasses, they usually say to stay away from drilled for most applications (some exceptions can be found), and when they mention reasons to slot, you'll find basically the same reason I mentioned: to clear debris from the pad/rotor interface area. Whether it be brake dust, water, or dirt/mud, slots help clear it. There's also mention of less pad glazing (the slots help scrub the pads better, reducing glazing problems) So, I stand by my recommendation of slotted rotors.

Good summary, Nipper, but he wants full output to the rear to drive a divorced transfer case. I know that this has been done with an earlier auto (EJ/auto/transfer case in a hatch). The spool might be the best way to go if you want to keep the auto, but you may be on your own for making one (is the spool available for the auto? anyone?)

Slotted is a consideration. They don't warp a easily (if properly slotted), and they will keep the mud and crap cleared off the pads a little better offroad. Plus, you can use a bit more aggressive pad, as the slotting helps heat them up quicker. "Without having to do the rear disk conversion" This statement doesn't make much sense. With rear disks, the car will stop much better, it's not alot of work on that car, and it's only about $100 for good used parts. If the fronts don't really need to be done yet, do the rear disks first!

Well, my wife wanted to go to WCSS8, but scheduling does not allow for it. Maybe this will work for us!

What car are you using them on? What kind of pads are you using? What are your driving habits/style?

Yes, all of the lifts lower the front engine cradle, which holds the steering rack. This changes the distance between the steering shaft from the firewall and the shaft from the steering rack, which is where the extended linkage goes in (replacing the stock linkage).

You will want 3"-4" of lift. Any brand will suffice. ***You should go over all suspension, driveline, and brake components to make sure they are in good shape.*** Rear disks are nice, only about $100 in parts (+/-). Drums need to be adjusted manually on the EA-81's, and can pack with mud, causing braking problems (seen it happen). Watch the flex hoses, I had one go on me, and had to drive home 70Km knowing I only had one good stop left in the brake system. Front struts are usually pretty good still on these things (but check them), rear shocks are usually shot, but they're cheap. You should consider a 5 speed D/R swap. The 5 speeds have a better low range, plus better gear spacing to help cope with the bigger tires you're going to put on.

Looks similar to the "Diamond Blue" that VW used around '69.

Are you going to let us know how much $ ?

Well, I put it in for my own peace of mind. Canadian owners have apparently not been notified of this issue, but I figured it was a good idea anyways. By the way: $2.25 at Select Subaru in Post Falls, ID.

http://vwdov.ca/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=1009936#post1009936

I was in Sandpoint/CD'A area on the weekend. Lots of Soobs out there. Parked at Target and there was a Forester XT with custom plates: LIL SUBI, I think. Anyone here? I was the Silver Forester with BC plates on the other side of the Outback. When I came out, there was an Outback on either side of me!

Yup, we just traded my wife's Liberty (also silver, and basically a wagon) in on the Forester. She was a little sad at first, but she is SO happy with her Soob now. We've only put about 100km (~60 miles) on it so far, but the gas gauge has barely moved! The Liberty would've been through about a 1/4 tank already (in town, very hilly here). Oh yeah, those cars all put power to all 4 wheels, as well. Course, you have to tell the Loyale when to do it and the other two just know

They're not all Subarus, but they're all wagons! (and all silver. actually, there's one more silver wagon and a brown one not in the pic.)

I'll be getting SSR's to go on my AA rims (5). Just have to save up a little more $

Thanks all! Looked it over, drove it, looked it over, talked it over, traded it over! I'll have to post a pic in the Wagons Only thread. 1 Silver Forester Sport, 1 Lifted Silver '93 Loyale (on stock tires 'til I put it on the road) and a really cool non-Soob: my Silver '92 Passat Syncro. See a theme?

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Nelson area. Nelson will be 'home base'. There's lots of choices for accomodation here, hostels and such even (nice ones, too). You'd need to budget for gas and food, it's ~650-700km each way to get here.

I'm sure it can't be near as bad as the Liberty's driveline slop/cold lurching. Sounds good on the rest, dunno if I'd bother with the rewiring, though.