Hodaka Rider

So is that a no?

There's no 'h' in syncro. Sorry, just a pet peeve.

You can send me a set to make up for my lift not showing up yet.

OK, first of all, try to stay as far away from Midas as possible. Why? The Midas touch: everything they touch turns to gold - for them. I'm sure there's some honest ones somewhere, but not that I've ever heard of. There is no "transfer case". What you need to do is get the car to someone who know Subarus. If you do want to give up on the car, I'd love to take it off your hands! I need a Legacy donor for my engine swap.

I had thought of going that route, Skip (used to be popular way of putting a Corvair engine into VW's), but I'm not sure if it'll work with the Soob oil pump.

OK, I think I missed something. I only read through your posts twice, but I'm not sure I know exactly what information you are looking for. Are you looking to find a way of using a Subaru engine and trans in a mid or rear config? As far as I know, it will not work in a rear config (the Subaru R&P cannot be flipped), but a mid config is doable - in 2WD only. Your only options are different transmissions with adaptors. There are already adaptors out there for using the Subaru EJ series engines with VW trannys, so why not go that route? That way you can do either mid or rear engine, and if you use a Syncro donor, you can have all wheel drive.

Yep, I've got one. 1994 Loyale stock AM/FM with cassette.

You got three choices: 1) Use the adaptors the aftermarket has (or make your own) 2) Remove your heating sytem (the heater core is what sits behind the radio) 3) Put you head unit under your seat, in the glovebox, or somewhere else.

Here's an idea: keep the SPFI. Engine will bolt in, you can even keep the trans. To keep the SPFI, search for the 'SPFI Conversion Manual' here. You will only have to pay attention to the bits that are directly on the engine, I think. As for power, you may want a little more. Consider rebuilding the EA-81 with 1600 pistons and a Delta cam.

OK, here's a possible long shot, but check it out anyways. One of my cars had aluminum wire for the battery cables. One day the car wouldn't start - turned out it was a little corrosion in the batt. terminal. Corroded aluminum = aluminum oxide = insulator. So, what I'm getting at is that if your wires are aluminum, you could have poor contact, causing the current to not flow though all of the strands of the wire, which would definitely cause melting of insulation.

Well.. I started this one after the snow started flying up here (check the rest of the pics in my gallery). I have an AWD VW Passat to play in, as well as a Jeep Liberty 4x4. Subaru is ongoing project - rebuilding engine right now.

And I woke up to this!

OK, time for another update. It's a full rebuild - but things aren't too bad! Crank cleaned up nicely last night with two stages of pollishing - extremely minor scratches on a couple journals - mostly just deposits from the bearings. Final pollish will be done right before assembly. Pistons are not perfect, just a little bit of scuffing on the skirts, though. Engine has 294,000 Km on it - about 182,000 Mi. Siezed when the previous owner apparently drove it awhile with zero oil in it. So far, everything is measuring very close to stock spec - not even anywhere near wear limits.

OK, not exactly sure what you're looking to see. The passage from the driver's side (WP side) to the passenger side is a smallish oval port. the rest of the mating surface between the halves is pretty much just that - mating surface. I'll take pics soon (keep forgetting my camera).

Very cool! I'm going to see about getting a JDM GT Twin when they're available for sale here in a couple years.

My EA-82 SPFI is apart right now. Forged rods and crank, cast pistons. I believe the main difference with the turbo is the pistons, but don't think they are forged, just dished for lower compression.

Kinda close? Well, if 8-9 hours driving can be considered close. (see map) I've got a buddy up in Chilliwack, though, and my brother lives in Beaverton. Who knows, I may do this after my Loyale is done (if someone buys it from me quick). Have to put a D/R behind the engine, though.

Yep, I remember about 3-4 years ago I was going beach camping with some friends. It had been a really wet spring, and the usually easiliy accessable beach was blocked by several large logs. I could get over them fairly quickly with my soob, but others were coming with less capable vehicles. So, out comes the chain and I dragged several waterlogged lengths out of the way. One of them was over a foot in diameter, and about 20' long. No prob. I don't doubt the ruggedness of the newer gen units, but they still tend to start at around 7-8 grand around here. Hardly a candidate for bush vehicle in my opinion.

OK, just got a reply from the ever helpfull Skip. Here's what he said: So, looks like it could work without correcting the step height, but I'll make sure it is at XT-6 spec.

Check the Marketplace. There's been several sets for sale lately. Other than that, there's several spots on the board where it shows what to look for at your local junk yard. The Peugeot 505 is the best donor, but watch out for metric (390mm) wheels - very hard to find tires for.

I actually knew about the disk interchangeablilty before he made his big 'announcement'. Pretty easy to figure out that if the part numbers are the same for the differnet cars, that the part is the same, too. Anyways, if it really is .085 difference, then I can just modify my flywheel to compensate (milling machine and lathe available). But from the number of poeple who have done it without modding, it may be just fine!

Hmmm.. Can you not tell FT4WD from P/T 4WD by the linkage? That and the FT did not have much reduction in Low.

Correction: Japanese Domestic Market

WOW! There must be a LOT of heat in that engine compartment. Good thing the turbos have a nice blast of air coming over them from the breadbox. Wonder how big the oil cooler is on that thing? Wait! Is the turbo outlet fed into the supercharger inlet? Looks like it's service life just got cut in half! (prolly a 100,000 mile unit anyways).

Can anyone confirm? Skip?