Hodaka Rider

Use header wrap on the y-pipe and the cat. Keeps the heat in, allowing the cat to do it's job better while keeping the flow up. Speaking of flow, retaining heat in the Y will increase the flow, too. All good. Keep your mpg and whatever muffler setup you had before.

Brian: Baja (bahahahaha) Turbo. Not EA series. Sounds fun!

Actually, you might have read it here. I did that for my tranny mounts- worked great.

Distributor: the 2WD disty swap was a tip from a page on EA-82 performance. I can't comment personally on whether or not it makes a difference on those engines (completely different disty) but on the EA-81 cars, the 2WD curve is not necesarily better. I have graphs of the different EA-71/EA-81 curves available (and I believe I posted them at one point). If you are running too much initial advance then you probably will get more low end with a 2WD disty, because it won't start to preiginite as easily. The 4WD disty curve shows more advance at lower RPM's, which will give you more output when properly tuned. High RPM's may be a different story. Haven't really checked that. Tom: start with stock specs, then advance a couple degrees at a time until you hear pinging when you floor it under load at low (1700-2500 or so) rpm's. When you get to the point where it's pinging, back it off a degree or two. My car is in serious need of a rebuild, and I was only able to get about 4 degrees extra before it started pinging. I switched back to 87 octane since, and my timing is back pretty much to stock because of it. I did notice a nice increase with 92 octane and extra advance, but gas is too pricey right now.

Yah, and downstairs is a great microbrewery! I work in middle heaven.

I was upstairs at the coffee roasters this morning getting my daily grind for the espresso machine, and started flipping through a local backcountry adventure mag (Off-Piste) that was on the desk. Come to the back cover and what do I see?: They thought I'd gone nuts!

That's funny. I thought the Sub4 heads were well over $1000 for a pair. Anyways, $1000 for a pair of highly modified heads is really not that expensive. Many 4cyl performance heads are much more than that.

My '83 manual just did this to me. Short story: The + cable from the batt to the starter is aluminum wire. The battery end of the wire (where it attaches to the post clamp) was a little loose, and had been causing a little arcing. Arcing on aluminum wire= aluminum oxide, which is an insulator. Cut the end of the wire off, strip back some insulation, new connection! The long version of the story includes suspecting the battery, changing the starter, and scratching my head a bit.

I need a Brat body in 1:24 scale or so. Anyone got one?

"Runs out pretty well against an RS" Hmmm.... I'd give it maybe 20hp advantage on the RS, considering it's still ahead in 4th gear.

Has anyone here looked at the link I posted? Am I the only one here who has actually driven a modern turbo-diesel car? They rock. Go to a VW dealer some time and try out a TDI Golf or Jetta.

My thoughts are with you all, especially Christy. Make sure you let her know for me, John. Jason was a really great guy, for those of you who never met him. I had the privilege of spending a couple days and nights sharing a cabin with him and Christy in LaPine this spring, as well as offroading with him and helping him unstuck the wagon. He will be missed.

Anyone with negative thoughts or feelings toward diesels should go here for a bit. To prompt you: is 180-190 hp an about 300 lb-ft of torque enough?

Thanks for the reply Kernzie. I just sent you some more mail.

My '83 4X wagon gets about 8.7 on the highway (100-130 KPH) with my load of tools and other gear.

Kernzie: I just emailed you.

Wow. If I had a dollar for every post we've had on this very subject, I could buy a new Soob.

If you want good mileage, buy a diesel. 2003 VW Jetta TDI = at least 650 to 700 miles per 14.5 US gallons at the speeds you're doing.

My feeling exactly first time I saw 'em.

Unfortunately, most of the footage of my soob in action is not available to me. John (mudrat) and Ross (magnificent on the old board) have a bunch of video from the LaPine trip this spring, which has some stuff with my car in action. I think Ross's friend has a bunch of stills from that trip, too. I've got a few stills that I've taken myself, but most of the time I'm by myself up here, so no Vid. Here's a couple, though: outta the mud On an old mining trail navigating a simple water bar I'll try to find more.

THIS is something we totally agree on! Fer shure. Too bad more people don't understand that one, even in N/A engines. That and the size of the pipe. Some people are really silly on that one.

Semantics? OK, I guess I'll give you that one. I'm just quoting what I know from the link I posted (atually refered to on the Banks turbo site) and the compiled into I have from turbo experts (Banks, Garrett, etc.) It's all good. They just all seem to treat backpressure as a bad thing, not something that makes power. They also seem to all agree on exhaust flow as being the key. I can see what you mean by pressure in the manifold (pre-turbo), but I guess that's where we diverge. I have never seen that particular pressure referred to as backpressure. Backpressure is typically used to refer to resistance to flow, not something that actually helps. Manifold pressure is another story all together. Semantics, I guess. BTW, all of the power engineers I have talked to would refer to it as manifold pressure as well. Maybe it's a difference between USA and Canadian schooling? :eh:

Either that or crack and possibly shatter. No biggie, I guess.

Talk to MudRat.

plexiglass