Hodaka Rider

You won't need 100hp to make something that light freeway driveable. It sure would be entertaining with that much power, though. OTOH, I personally don't see the problem with, say, an EA71 or 81. Maybe dual-carb? That would move!

Marc's a good guy. I stopped in to try to find a set of elusive 6" wide steelies when I was there once - no luck, but he was willing to take the time to sift through the pile with me. I have a local Peugeot enthusiast that I go to when looking for wheels, takes a little longer but he finds 'em.

Wow! I didn't know Tex had EJ'd the wagon! And headers, too? You got some 'splaining to do.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78948

Define "slow". I'm betting most people will think that a car that will lay down the quarter faster than 11 sec. is anything but slow.

As per my other thread, changed O2 sensor - much better now. It still surges a little, and has a bit of a flat-spot that seems more RPM dependent than throttle position dependent. Got some theories on that, too.

OK, tried the sparkplug wire disconnect - brilliant! Voltage did not change. Got a new O2 sensor - idle stabilized, revs smoother, but still a little surging. Back to the testing!!

BTW: this testing was done with car fully warmed up (drove around town and came back, rad fan cycled during my testing) and I held the RPM's above 1200 for 2 minutes, as recommended in my service manual, before checking voltage. Rev up: Yeah, I'll try that tomorrow. Yes, backprobing with it connected.

I fixed my post - put a decimal in the wrong spot! Still think it's bad? It looks to me like it's just working really hard to compensate for a problem.

OK, I'm thinking it may not be the sensor. I tested the O2 sensor: it's fluctuating between ~0v and 0.43 volts. Looks more like a lean condition than a bad sensor. Pulled a vac line after the t-body and voltage went down to a fairly steady .2-.3 - about what it should be. I may have mentioned before that my fuel pump seems to be a little noisy. Looks like it's time to check fuel pressure before and after filter and pressure regulator. Also need to check the wires at the pump for corrosion.

OK, borrowed a good MAF until my new one comes from svxpert. Put the original CTS back in after testing it YET AGAIN! Reset ECU. CEL gone. Fast forward several days without much driving, two new axles, new front brakes, and new ball joints later. I go for a drive to bed-in the new brakes, and get a code 32 on the way home. Could this be the end of the problems? Has anyone had something other than a bad O2 sensor cause the code 32?

OK, NOW I'm getting an O2 code. I spent most of yesterday doing brakes, axles (MWE FTW), and ball joints. Went for my brake bed-in loop through the countryside (lower speeds), and noticed my CEL on the highway on the way home (different route- highway speeds). Checked the code when I got home - 32. I have not done any further testing as yet. This is related to my previous thread input on hesitation/bogging/surging. (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22047&page=4) I replaced the MAF and CTS to clear the codes mentioned in that thread. Next question: Has anyone known anything other than a bad O2 sensor to throw an O2 sensor code on an EA-82 SPFI car?

I did the swap on my '93 Loyale. Left the stock valve in place, and have not had any problem with the rear locking before the front on dirt or pavement. You should be fine (assuming everything is in good shape).

I like to use the milling machine at my dad's house, but maybe that's just me.

You do all know that the only way you can register these for use on the road in the US is if you get someone who doesn't know what they're doing right? Anyways, looks like the ones imported into the US also have to be equipped with a speed governor. We don't have to deal with that in Canada. Which land is the home of the free, again?

Just got my plate from rguyver - very nice CNC'd piece. I don't know when I'll be doing the actual swap, but I have complete faith in the part, as I've seen the identical one in use (hard use) on other vehicles.

UPDATE 4: Yay! this morning I get a MIL and codes! Finally something to go on! Codes 23 and 21 (the CTS may be an old code - I drove it once with CTS disconnected). Ran out of time, but later I'll clear codes and drive it to see what comes back.

So, anyone who uses an ATV for hunting and is tired of freezing their nutz off will be very interested in these at the going price. Easy to lift, you can use ATV tires (maybe some ATV wheels, too?), and HEAT! Not to mention you can throw your gear, deer, and beer right in the back. Plus, I think one of these will fit in the bed of a full-size for transport.

UPDATE 3: Now it's surging Have not tested it on the highway, only around town a bit. Seems to surge only after it's warmed up. Grrrr. Weird that WJM recently posted how great he thought the stock ECU setup is, when so many of us are having problems like this. I think I'll try a different MAF sensor next. Can 'resetting' the ECU (disconnect battery for ~30 mins) clear any info on these, or are they completely non-learning? Forgot to mention: my idle also seems a little low and rough, too. I checked vac. connections: can see any problems.

Not to keep this heading off-topic, but David is a scientist.

How about "what kind of an environmentalist are you?" David Suzuki should be WAY better known than Al Gore by this point. I mean, sure Al invented the internet (*snicker*), but David Suzuki has been an Environmental Activist since the '70's.

WOOO-HOOOO! Got a ride in a Sambar today! Not the one in the picture, though. Turns out one of my clients bought one, and he showed up in it today. Didn't get to go far (and he drove), but it seems MUCH more liveable than the Suzuki I drove. It's having a stalling problem now, but I'm wondering if it has anything to do with his driving style (5th gear at 25mph? yeah, it'll do it - but WHY?) Anyways, I jokingly told him if it keeps acting up I'll give him $500 for it (he-he). No locking diffs on this one, no supercharger, but it still has the "EL" extra-low gear.

On my '94 Loyale, should I get a code/CEL if I disconnect the Oxygen sensor? I was checking things over today, disconnected the sensor, and the idle did not change and I did not get a code. For some reason, I thought that strange.

UPDATE 2: So, everything back together, timing set correctly. MUCH better now. It pretty much just feels like I would expect a good-running Loyale to feel with 27" Swampers on it. Now on to the front end work I need to do (ball joints, brakes, axles, strut rod bushings, etc.) I may even pop the D/R in soon!

You are correct. Last timing belt change was done by a tire chain store (Big O) - I found a decal on one of the timing covers.