Hodaka Rider

Dude . . . You're my hero!

Thanks for the pics, Mellow. I understand what you mean now. I guess that looks doable, but then I need to find a M/T car with cruise to steal the switch from. Another idea my dad came up with is to just use a good sealed microswitch. Make a bump or detent on the selector shaft outside of the tranny, and mount the switch on a bracket beside it. Might work.

Dan just triple checked the car this came from, and swears it is an '88 SPFI GL wagon. Very strange that it does not have a neutral switch. *sigh* I guess I'm going to look at all the info on putting these into a Loyale yet again. I can't put a switch on the clutch pedal - there's already one there for something else. I don't want to deal with the car always throwing a code, either.

Anyone got more info?

Did the '88 it came in have SPFI, or carb?

I'll look in the morning, but I think the Loyale already uses a clutch switch for something else. Plus, it's kind of a kludgy way of doing things (IMHO).

Actually, I specifically requested that it be from an '88 or '89 with the neutral position switch. Thus the question.

OK, here's a question: Does this look like it has a neutral position switch, or not?

So, I'm looking for pics of EA-82 trannys. I got a D/R without linkage, and would like to see what the linkages look like (intact) for when I go to the J/Y to pull parts. Specifically looking for pics of '88-'89 SPFI D/R trans if possible.

The biggest question is why? Do you really think the Soob needs that much weight added over the front wheels?

"Age:15" 'nuf said.

Kind of funny, when my stock VW Passat has almost as much power as a lot of the 5.0's, and weight is similar.

So, after I popped my one rear axle, I noticed that my 4wd indiactor lights no longer . . . light. I know I'm in 4wd (I hear the 'click' and get lots of traction real quick). This may be moot, as I will be swapping in a D/R soon, but just wondering if anyone has had a similar occurance. All plugs under the hood seem to check out fine (don't have wiring diagrams to check properly, though. ie: continuity). Also, have not checked bulbs in dash.

Awesome! Good on you both! You'll LOVE having those rear discs on there!

Is yours a pushbutton 4WD? Definitely check vac lines!

Just the standard kit (1" drop at bar). Thinking of your 2" shim - actually, have been since you started offering them. I need to find bolts, though.

Rear axle. Standard AA 3" rear. Makes me wonder if they popped any axles with the kit on their car. Then again, this was the factory original. I don't have lo range. I've been trying to find the right transmission at the right price - no luck so far. I know that if I'm patient I can get one for under $100, so I have trouble justifying the $200+ that most places want for them (add shipping, too). On the positive side, this thing feels almost as powerful with the big tires as my '83 did with stock tires. (except for the bog, that is).

So, I finally put the Loyale on the road for three days (sat/sun/mon). Here's my impressions: 1) Loyale bog/hesitation sucks - especially with 27" SSR's involved and no low range. 2) SSR's are NOISY at highway speed. 3) Snow and mud are cake, even in 2WD (see note 4), with a lift and SSR's. 4) When a rear axle pops out of the cup, you have instant 2WD. 5) People like lifted Soobs :cool: So, I tried to combat the bog. Car has new air filter/plugs/wires (Bosch)/cap/rotor. CTS, TPS, and MAF all measure out good, injector seems OK, too. Timing was previously wrong, I fixed it. Bogs until 2K RPM's, then goes fine. Very little oil in intake, MAF cleaned. ????????? No codes. Anyways, yesterday I tackled a popular mountain bike trail, and was doing good until I got to a point where it was dangerous to go further without 4LO. (not much chance of extraction up there - too narrow for most trucks) So, I started to turn around, and had spinning tire action - this in a spot where I should have been OK with 4WD engaged. Then I remember a strange ClUnK a couple hundred feet earlier. Got myself turned around and back home (clack-clunk-clack), and found that the PS side axle shaft was held in at the inner end by the boot only! Pulled it - circlip was popped and mangled. So, gotta get another and hope it stays together longer. Other than that, car's off the road until I can sell my Passat. Same story for over a year now. Why is it so damn hard to sell a good car, when s#!t cars sell fast?

Hee-Heee! That being said, if you throw a lot of preventive maintenance at it, you could turn it into a raging hot rod. If you have searched, you probably already know this though.

SWEET! Finally a local member!!!!! Come to Nelson for a meetup? Or, I might be heading out to Trail in the near future. (Next week, maybe) I'm self-employed, so fairly flexible schedule.

You're right, he shouldn't discount this possibility. but he did say that at least one of his flywheel holes was not quite aligned properly.

Right. An older FI vehicle might still have issues if it can't compensate. Just as a newer ('80s) carb'd Subaru might be fine, because it can compensate a little with the "feedback carb" system.

My 27" swampers measure out to almost 28". I had to trim only a small amount in front of the rear tires. Most people don't even notice I trimmed it.

Kinda why I haven't actually done anything about the whole idea. Yah, that's why I said maybe lower the rear an inch. Then you would have 1+1 at the rear, plus the suggested 2 at the front. For a grand total of 2" drop at front of diff, plus 2" drop at rear of diff.