boxerbob

Thanks numbchux. I've seen svx axles, they have two make ends. I'll probably just make a hybrid. If not i'll just drop off both diff's to my pops . I got the instructions from someone on here or nasioc and found a old haynes manual.

i need to know what axles will go into my car. i got of course a 1988 wagon with XT6 5 lug swap and my rear diff doesn't have the nubs like the stock style, one i got now takes male ends. what axles can i use? will early legacy axles do the job? i was just going to swap the gears into the old 3.7 LSD i have but said forget the trouble of re-adjusting unless i have too. thanks

i guess i'll look into one. thanks for the reply

hey all i got my wagon in pieces and got my bushings friday from superpro and Chris at MAperformance. i want to put in a rear swaybar, and i got one from my WRX. i noticed the difference in the front ones which is funny to me, its just a difference in how they mount. Focusing on the rear, how will i need to mount it? will i need to find my old mounts/endlinks from my WRX?

Td04? mine was bad for shaking loose and vibrating. easy to adjust. but also be aware of gaskets in the exhaust, if they arent full crush metal they may not even last for much of anything. i had one in my old WRX i thought was ok to run since it had the metal ring in it, drove it to get pizza ate there got in and no boost. that was all back when i didn't know jack about imports/new cars let alone a turbo one. hope you solve it

is it V9 or Y9? cause Y9 is still twin turbo. also W9 which is 1994 wrx-RA(11.47psi). V9 is all wrx wagons 10psi dropping to 6.8

walbro makes alot of inline fuel pumps like the one i bought for my ej20T. fit right in stock location. it was sweet. but like said above they only cost like 120 bux, some less.

thanks for the link, i was thinking the same thing about it. just a space saver thought.

got a ej20R i bought, switching it over to a medium sized turbo with 3in inlet, EWG. so i'm doing all the piping myself. not much space to put the EWG down by the pipes so my only real option to keep it over there is to bring it above the turbo. But i had this idea. instead of blocking off the old primary turbo manifold on drivers side i could run the wastegate out of it. would that function right possibly?

if it did say T-5 on your ECU it was an auto and it made probably about 250ps, maybe less.

was that an automatic engine? from what i could see its either a ej20k or G. if it was auto it was down 20-30hp from normal. 280ps on a ej20r which is stick becomes 260ps in auto which became a ej20h. also if it has plugs in the now drivers side head that tap into the oil and coolant, one of which is all the way on the front, its a 20K. they used 20R's heads since they were big valve/ports. all other heads are just casted for the spots.

i recommend stickier tires too. or wider with plenty of tread. ABS is really bad in winter too. really it does suck all around.

you by some chance weren't on a dead site called ohiosubaru's were you?

ever get to talk with them? i would ask jen on Clubwrx personally, she has gave me some info on it before about axle delete in front

one thing is find a SOHC 2.5 intake with DBC, i'm sure there are STi guys at nasioc or clubwrx.net who might know the answer.

ok... well for the one who wanted to know what i had, i got the whole intake and just about everything that was attached and i got the fuel pump, if you need the computer i can hand that over too.

well what is the complete list of items from this someone would need so i know what i'm taking off. i got everything since the motor is sitting there still.

just came to this. i'll get pics, email ya

do people ever have demand for SPFI parts like the whole setup? i have one (intake and all) sitting under my car from my old motor, needing more cash for project thought i would get something for it.

there is a chick on clubwrx that drags their EJ25 wrx, converted to RWD with a TH400 behind it. goes by i think yellow03 i think. real names jen, always in the bugeye mafia section.

thanks, i guess i've looked at those pages at some point , it has the first one purple for my screen! feel better knowing i didn't actually mess it up. know more than i trusted myself to

well got a daylight look at it. took to much in. it was past the red zone for the gauge. i didn't finish it up til after dark when i put it in. thats when it started the noise so i didn't think to check it. let some off and its better than factory temp's. no noises, smooth engagement. so this is a reminder to all, it acts like its locking up after filling, it backing up from to much pressure. when my pops did out 5.0 it only took as needed, only reason i didn't think of it.

well i called up jhot imports after getting a ej20 , needing the matching rear diff for it(4.444) and thats what i got. 125. should be posi too.

well i did it the best i could follow and i evacuated it right. books and hillbillys only know so much. anyways i talk to my pops who was a mechanic for many years. he said it could have took in to much refrig which i think is what did happen and to release some. it didn't start acting like that until it took over a pound, usually it wont take more than it needs but so often they do. He would have said something if i did something really wrong. also i might add i never said i did it perfect, just the best a back yard guy can do. plus thats what the guy gets for buying a 80k mile compressor. if it was new like i told him to do and stop being cheap after selling another car for 3500. i could have pin pointed it to me and easily take the blame.

BG5(?)-JDM legacy GT-B, 98-01 2.5rs but here is a site with a good list http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/lsd/lsd.html