eastwestboy

And what is the $5 fix? thanks

Thanks Fox, the thing is the mirror has to extend outwards a bit. When I look in the mirror now I see the left front corner of the trailer, and I ‘d like to see whats further back behind the corner. Looking around the corner, that would be great.

I pull an Aliner trailer with the 2006 Forester. The side rear view mirrors are just a bit too short to have a good rear view. I tried the clip on’s, but they shake like crazy and shift away in a short time. I need something that I can bolt on firmly, that means of course to remove the old mirrors. Are there any bolt on mirrors for that? I don’t want those huge things that you often see on RVs. Thanks

Replaced shoes and drums on the rear of the 97 Legacy. Also got the hardware bag with new springs, cup-washers, through bolts. So everything except the wheel cylinder is new there. Test drove it and worked fine. The first few days I had a bit of a deeper pedal travel, was only going around here in the country. Then the brakes worked perfectly, no more exessive pedal travel, just perfect brakes. After 2 more weeks now, I hear bang-bang from the right rear, proportional to speed. same loundness for high or low speed, hard or light braking. No noise if I don’t brake. Took off the drum yesterday, everything looked good, nothing out of order. Anybody has an idea? Thanks

sounds like an ignition problem. Coil, spark wires, plugs. Most likley the coil, wires can do that too. Also a bad electrical contact could be the problem.I would start with the coil. you get a CEL?

I think you are out of luck. I was aksing and looking around for that too. There are just not enough Subarus around here. Some believe they are pros with subarus because they know Porsches.

Anybody ever did new brakelines from front to back? How difficult is it? What has to be removed to access that space? Mine is a legacy 97 that needs that treatment. Thanx from eastwest

I have it on a hoist now. There is no way I could follow the brake line after it elbows in under the crossmember. Do I really have to remove the crossmember? I don’t even see anything of the line no matter where I try to look in. It is obvious that the line is broken up there, just from where the oil is dripping. So I guess the wheel cyclinders are OK, I just could not get the drums off yet. Tried heat, creeping oil, whackosis. Thanks for the answers, from eastwest

Legacy 1997 202 000 km. Breaking oil is disappearing. There are drops coming down from the 2 1-inch holes right above the rear right inner CV joint. Is there a joint or a connection box or something in the break line? Or did it just rust through. How can the line be accessed there? I cant see the line in this area. Never heard of a break line leaking where there is not an attachment. Thanks from eastwest

the Brighton is a 2.2 and has no headgasket issues. Here, such a car in good shape is around 2500 C$.

1998 Legacy 2.2: After the storm here, I started to loose coolant. It starts losing right after starting. There is a trail of coolant in the snow when I move slowly around. When I start it from cold, running for just 20 secs and shut it down, there is already quite some pressure in the system, so when I open the rad cap then, some 100-200 ml spills out, COLD! I don’t believe this is normal. Coolent is dripping close to where the exhaust pipe branches, but only when I do a short (20 to 40 secs) start and shutdown. Not when it just sits. Haven’t driven it since I realized this. Looks like it comes out of the motor, boy-oh-boy. What could be the problem? It has 203000km. Thanks very much.

What is the pitch stopper and where is it? Thanks for the answers.

I had a pinhole in the oil pan. It was just beside the dipstick tube going in the pan. A bit of jb weld did the trick. But there is more to come. The front side is rusted badly, it’s not going to hold for a long time. What about grinding it to the medal and just put one layer of jb weld on it? I know, it’s time for a new pan, but the $$ is not so many here. I searched “oil pan” on all forums, not a single hit. Nobody ever did something with the oil pan USMB? That cannot be! Thanks

I wrote here about the Forester 06 that stalled about a mile from home after I put gas in it that was a few months old. Thanks for all the replies. I drained the gas tank, there is a drain plug on the right half of the tank, in the other half the gas stays trapped, I guess. I couldn’t find a way to drain the left half. In the FSM and in the Haynes both indicate that both have a drain. After draining, I put in 7 gallons with good gas, drained it, and another 8 gallons. I then opened the gas line under the hood before the pressure regulator, hanged the hose in a container and cranked it. The flow seems to be good, I got almost a gallon out in about a minute. I tested the last portion of that gas on a kubota generator and it worked fine, even though that generator is quite moody. Put the hose back together, cranked, still no start. No CEL either. Could it be that there was something so bad in the old gas that even with my dilution process, there is still enough “toxic” stuff in there that it refuses to start? The me is puzzled. Thanks

Forrester 06: I was driving for 1 mile, coughs three times and stalls. Cranked, turned over but couldn’t start. Flatbed it back home, error codes are P0303 and P0404. The evening before I was refilling gas from a jerrycan, as I often do. The gas was about 3 month old and I am sure the can was closed tightly. I can’t believe my stored gas has done this, but this coincidence makes me doubt. The car is still under waranty, but it is a big hassle to go through that if it is not absolutly necessary. I also disconnected the battery for a few hours but that didn’t help. Also checked all fuses. Anybody with an idea? Thanks