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mkoch

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Everything posted by mkoch

  1. mkoch
    Oh, and adding, the clicking noise happens mostly when decelerating. If I turn hard, left or right, the clunking sound is not effected. To me, that means the problem is the DOJ, (inboard) not the CVC. mkoch
  2. mkoch
    Thanks for the advice. I brought the axle shaft/ bearing housing to a place that has a press, and they acted like it is a big risk to pop the axle shaft off. The tech said the axle shaft might be destroyed. I am looking at another option... Same old CVJ and bearings, new outer boot, but new DOJs and boots. The mechanics here have me spooked about removing the axle shaft. Where would I buy another bearing housing?
  3. mkoch
    I need to replace the front axle shafts. The seriously "clunk clunk" I plan to replace a lot of other stuff while I am at it, such as tie rod ends, ball joint. I have new wheel bearings and seals. The ones on the car seem to be holding up just fine. Replace them, or not?
  4. mkoch
    The problem is “no start”. She cranks well enough, but just won’t catch.
  5. mkoch
    On my 84 gl, the clutch pedal box bent. As the pedal became less efficient at pulling the cable, it felt like the clutch plate was going bad. Look ook at the assembly that holds the clutch pedal, and press the clutch pedal with your hand. Does the frame which holds the pedal deform? I wish I had done this before I replaced my clutch plate!
  6. mkoch
    Today’s problem, ignition coil. What is a good replacement? It throws a yellowish spark 1/4 inch. It is definitely not any shade of blue. Leaky engine oil. The oil pump seal is the culprit. The oil pump is fine, only one season on it. How do I re- do the seal? Water pump. This one is 11 years old, and 24,000 miles. Replace? Catastrophic Converter y pipe piece needs to be replaced. Where can I buy a decent one? Oh, and an donor-body. This one is rusty.
  7. mkoch
    Warm engine, 1,000 rpm, 50+ psi, 4,000rpm, about 30 psi oil pressure. This seems bass ackwards! Is it a problem?
  8. mkoch
    Thank you! I am carrying in the car a spare distributor module. I did not change anything in the past couple of weeks! mkoch
  9. mkoch
    1984 GL 4WD 49 State, with Weber carb. Bah! Trying to find the cause of a problem which comes and goes. 'been pleased with the Weber carb, starts right up usually. Yesterday, I had a crank but no-start condition. Choke in right position, correct fuel pressure to carb. 50 degree day. Removed dist cap, wd-40'd and thoroughly dried it. I attempted to start several times, and I did not get even a "pop". Also, with starting fluid, choke open, then choke closed, no start, no detonation. I let the car sit for a couple of hours, then came back to it to do diagnostics. I removed #1 spark plug wire, to check spark on disembodied spark plug. The car started right up with gusto on 3 cylinders. What is the most likely cause of intermittent spark problem? Anecdotal information wanted! It's all I have to go on.
  10. mkoch
    I plan to run some wiring for a dash cam. I would like to run it under the headliner of my 1984 GL wagon. Any advice or instructions on how to remove the headliner? It seems to be styrofoam, with a thin vinyl color layer. Is it glued in place? mkoch
  11. mkoch
    Does the EA81 have any place to install a block heater?
  12. mkoch
    Thank you everybody! I was able to start the car with little problem. It would fire up, then die after about three seconds. I solved this by pumping the gas to keep it from stalling. mkoch
  13. mkoch
    22 degrees forecast for when I plan to start my ‘84 Webered EA81. I have never started this carb in weather so cold. 500 miles from home, with an old battery, also. Any suggestions for a cold weather start?
  14. mkoch
    Thank you, Naked Buell. The broken piece was in there so loosely that I was able to tease it out with a knife point. , just waiting for the part now.
  15. mkoch
    Sigh, this could be an original radiator. The petcock broke, and I was fortunate enough to discover it after only 3 minutes of driving! Is there an easy solution to this?
  16. mkoch
    Thank you GeneralDisorder, your way worked.
  17. mkoch
    I was able to pound the wheel stud out! Any suggestions on how to press in the new one?
  18. mkoch
    One front wheel stud is broken off of my 1984 gl 4wd. Do I need to replace the whole plate?
  19. mkoch
    Thank you, montana tom! mkoch
  20. mkoch
    Hello all, Do I need special tools to replace the struts, brakes, and discs on 2000 Outback? I do not know whether just the pads, or the calipers also need replacing. I have all the tools and skill to do this on a 2nd generation GL. mkoch
  21. mkoch
    1984 4WD GL, I need to replace the axle shafts, front. 200,000 miles, seems like a good idea to replace the front wheel bearings and seals while I am at it. What else should I do on this job?
  22. mkoch
    "Like This Subaru Scott's PhotoSubaru Scott 04 May 2018 Aaaand now their website is updated. $141 for the y-pipe. Out of stock. Quote" Excellent prices on out of stock products.
  23. mkoch
    I am not a Subaru expert, and far from being one. The process is not so difficult. The hardest part is trusting that it is as easy as turning the rocker screw until it feels loose.
  24. mkoch
    Thank you skishop69. Can I replace the oil pan gasket without removing the engine? I have a hoist to lift it a few inches.
  25. mkoch
    I just did a clutch replacement on a 1984 4WD GL. I replaced the rear main engine seal, and the orange gasket featured in this video It looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking, and also I have some oil in the clutch housing. Can oil leaking from the oil pan gasket migrate up into the clutch housing? The bottom of the clutch bell housing is open. I am hoping it can, it would be an easy fix. Otherwise, I am looking at fixing a leak in the transmission.
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