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kilgore

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Everything posted by kilgore

  1. kilgore

    How ya doin? Been a while? Car running well?

    I'm in a bit of a pickle here, was wondering if you had any idea where a guy could get a cheap EGR valve from in town here? Do you know of any engines or anyone with parts laying around? My poor old girl failed air care and now icbc wants her off the road! Turns out there's a leak in the valve's diaphragm (smoke test confirmed this).

    Anyways, just throwing it out there, seeing what sticks!

    Cheers! (you ever get round to those HGs? fun eh...)

  2. kilgore

    dude. thank you for the wheel bearing article. made the job go so much smoother! thanks again. C

  3. kilgore

    try posting in the newer subaru forums. this bb is mainly for older models and doesn't cover your 97 OB. good luck!!

  4. kilgore
    http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34941 Here's a link sent to me by a friend, a Toyota guy, but a nice enough guy nonetheless... Show's alot of cars, mostly members here no doubt, but also some nice comments from the general 4by community. cheers
  5. kilgore
    Try your lug nut...
  6. kilgore
    To clarify, some of the gaskets in the felpro kit you may want to get OEM as they are garb, namely the exhaust gaskets and the cam tower reinf. o-ring. I see you've been made aware of this already. have fun!
  7. kilgore
    If you initially wanted the FRM than I apologize, but this wasn't made clear. I had the exact same problems you had with your HGs. I did mine last winter (w/o pulling the engine) with a Hayne's manual (which was super helpful) and the USRM from this site. Although a factory service manual is nice, it isn't necessary and there are some procedures that are made more complicated than they really are. It's not a very complicated process, and should take you a weekend if you have all the parts. Get the felpro gasket kit, they don't require retorquing - you do not want to have to pull the engine apart twice - and have most everything you need. Get a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench to get at the valve cover bolts if yer leaving the eng. in the car. Read up and then read up some more and then give 'er. Be super careful cleaning the aluminum block mating surface. There are numerous threads on this. I found this helpful as well. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55920
  8. kilgore
    Just go buy a manual - they are worth their weight in gold. There are a number of different sections of a manual needed in order to do the HGs and once you have your engine open there are a number of things to look for to make sure your engine is slap-happy. Judging by your previous posts you are new to your car, a manual will save you from posting here every time you need help and will keep the gurus from getting annoyed with you... A $15 manual and the 'Search' command are your best friends.
  9. kilgore
    I have heard of spraying a mist of ether to locate vacuum leaks. The best way to precisely locate would be to test with a vacuum gauge I suspect, as small leaks won't necessarily be noted using ether.
  10. kilgore
    I had a similar bogging issue in my ea82, turned out to be a leak in the throttle body - the gasket was torn. Replaced that and she's golden, more bottom end now and less bogging when cold. Just a thought.
  11. kilgore
    I had the same set up. The foglights were mounted on the underside of the bumper until they were smashed off. My relay is mounted on the front side of the drivers' side strut mount beside the coolant reservoir. The relay circuit draws from the parking lights (corner lights on my car) and are powered directly from the battery through an in-line fuse. There is a single wire to the lights which is spliced at the bumper. I upgraded the relay so that each light has it's own power.
  12. kilgore
    Try posting here for wheels. They sometimes pop up, or others may have them kicking around in a shed or otherwise. This is how I scored my 15s. Just a thought. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showforum=15 This guy's got 6 rims in Kansas... Not sure how far that is from you. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1539
  13. kilgore
    My 92 Loyale injector looks like the cheaper one. (For what it's worth...)
  14. kilgore
    I think there is a difference with the 2wd and 4wd front struts. Aren't the front 2wd's longer (from the spring seat down) by 1.5" or so?
  15. kilgore
    +1 on the EA82 fenders, mine are getting pretty gnarly! If anybody in Washington is willing to sell a set I would be interested. I could pick them up as well. Shipping those things is quite spendy...
  16. kilgore
    got it. no worries... partsman gave me the wrong ones (2wd). He was adamant his book was right but it obv isnt... looks like another strut change on the horizon. yay
  17. kilgore
    If somebody has easy access to a 4x4 Loyale front strut, can you please measure the distance from the top of the steering knuckle (where the strut sits) to the lowest point of the lower spring seat along the strut body? Can you also let me know the brand of strut you have as well? Thanks!
  18. kilgore
    I put a jack under the arm to support it more securely so I could pry against the knuckle. I pried between the control arm and the knuckle with the wheels cranked one way or the other.
  19. kilgore
    Sounds quite similar to the performance of my EA82 when the headgasket was blown... no low end compression. Just throwin' it out there.
  20. kilgore
    Once you have it moving you're just about there. I took the load off by putting a jack under the control arm and jumped on a really long pry bar instead of hammering. Hammer a fat flat-head screwdriver in the pinch joint (making sure not to impede the removal of the joint). It'll come.
  21. kilgore
    Recently installed some sachs struts on the loyale - parts guy couldn't guarantee the '50% off sale' KYBs would fit, so they gave me the sachs' for the same price. The struts appear to have given a bit of a lift to the car! Even random folks are asking if I lifted it. I didn't measure the clearance before installation, but side by side they appeared equal for the most part. I now have 12" to the centre of the control arm bolt and 11" to the centre of of the hub (14 pugs with 195/65's). So basically there's a 1" difference between the centre of the axle castle nut and the control arm to crossmember bolt. Curious to see what other owners measure this to be on their stock 4x4 suspension, might be an easy way to get some boost for those looking for a slight lift.
  22. kilgore

    Hey, glad to see a Newfie here!

    I see you're doing yer HGs. I just did mine a while ago, it was my first big job on the car and it went well. So I can help you with anything if you want. I also took loads of pictures that I can email you if you want. TAKE LOADS OF PICTURES, and follow most directions in the Haynes manual. Some of the directions are a little misleading, but generally they are correct. I did it with the engine in the car - count on buying a couple packs of Robaxacet for your back. If you can, and have a stand, then by all means pull the engine. I did mine in the alley. Email me anytime at speeder76@hotmail.com, or if you're in a bind you can call me at 778-839-0948 (It's a Vancouver number) for any help. I'm not a mechanic, but I might be able to help you out.

    Chuck

    (now in) Vancouver

  23. kilgore
    Sorry for the multiple posts... The dealer calls it the 'center piece axle'. Part number: 623024020
  24. kilgore
    Oh, and it's not a flat washer between the castle nut and the cone washer, look closely and you'll see it's a spring washer. There might be writing on it that says 'OUT' indicating how it should be installed.
  25. kilgore
    Cone washer will do.. You'll probably have better luck at a dealership. My local had one in, they said they always stock at least one!
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