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I have a 2016 Outback with exactly the same issue. Just had the radio (head unit) replaced today under 3-year basic warranty. I've heard other folks with the same issue and their dealers replaced the units under warranty also. Edit: it's not normal. The new head unit does not have these zig-zag lines, neither did my factory unit when new.

I have a 96 Outback with auto purchased new in 96. I replaced the factory rear pads around 40,000 miles. Replaced the rear pads again twice, about 40,000 miles apart using Adv Auto parts. Replaced the original factory front pads at 120,000 miles (not a typo) with OEM pads. We don't drive hard so that's easy on brakes. Had to replace 3 calipers after 120,000 miles due to dragging pistons. Used Adv Auto for the 2 rears and reman Subaru for the left front. Still have the factory caliper on the right front. Now at 151,000 miles no issues at all with brakes or anything else (did the HG around 130,000 miles).

I've used it in an unconventional way with good result. My AT pan had a minor leak at the rear corner. I first dropped the pan, cleaned off all old gasket, put on Ultra Grey on a brand new pan and installed the new pan. The leak came back 1 year later. I then used Right Stuff to fix the leak. But I did not remove the pan this time. I thoroughly cleaned the leaking area on the outside of the pan. First with dry paper towel followed by alcohol on paper towel. Cleaned it REALLY well. Then applied Right Stuff on the outside of the flange where the leak was. I applied several layers with finger, waited till it's dry before the next layer. Did so over the course of 2 days without driving the car. At the end, there is a thick layer of Right Stuff on the outside flange of the AT pan. Guess what, the leak has not come back in 2 years. I did the same to a persistent leaking valve cover gasket due to a casting defect on the cylinder head flange (there is a hairline crack on the bottom flange from the factory). Worked well for about 1.5 years now. The leak has totally stopped. The trick is to thoroughly clean the area before you put on Right Stuff, and put on several layers, one layer at a time. The issue I have with this product is with its storage. I used the type that you dispense with a caulk gun. I followed the instruction by leaving an 1-inch of the stuff hanging out of the spout.as a plug. But after about a year of storage, the remaining stuff in the tube became partially hardened and it was difficult to push it out. If you can use it up in less than 6 months, it's not an issue. Don't have experience with the aerosol type.

What was your CEL code?

What brand did you use 5 years ago? I don't have any suggestion for you but was curious why a 5-yr-old sensor needs replacement. I still run both factory O2 sensors on my 96 2.5 with 150K miles. No CEL.

What years' Subarus use this waste spark ignition system? My 96 OBW 2.5 always have even wear on all plugs after 50-60 K miles service life.

Where on the ABS unit did it leak from?

I saw Valvoline MaxLife at my local Walmart for the exact same price as Amazon today, $15.88 plus tax.

Here is a picture of the factory oil filter on the FB engine showing part of the hole. As I turned the filter very slowly and removed it, most of the oil in the filter drained down into the crankcase. There was very little oil left in the filter resulting in no spilled oil at all. The only oil left in the round aluminum tray at the base of the filter was on the mounting flange. Cleaning up was extremely easy, the easiest oil change I've ever done. I also installed a Fumoto valve shown in the 2nd pic.

Exactly. I have a 2016 Outback so I know something about this. It's been discussed at Subaruoutback.org. This "hole" is simply an oval dimple about 2-3 mm deep. Mostly likely the result of the casting/machining process said above. I filled mine with JB Weld to get rid of the depression so that dirt and spilled oil don't get in there. Of course that's really not necessary. Any dirt there won't get into the engine with the filter in place. I changed the oil on this car a few days ago and the top-mounted filter is really easy to handle.

I have a 2016 Outback. Many 2015/16 Subarus come from the factory with low level of coolant in the overflow reservoir. Many say that's because they didn't fully burp the cooling system at the factory so the level gradually drops as you drive the car (it burps as you drive to let out trapped air in the system). Mine was in the middle of the hi/low marks with cold engine when I took delivery. It gradually dropped about 2 inches in the first 2 months and then stayed there. I read about many such reports on another forum. I think your service advisor was wrong. Whatever is stated in the manual is correct. But in any case, as long as you have at least some coolant in the overflow, the radiator is full or near full and that'll do its job. I keep it at full mark with a cold engine for both my 1996 and 2016. For both cars, it does not spill out of the overflow no matter how long I drive the cars.

There is a small metal tube leading to the EGR valve. When I had P0400 6 months ago (~142,000 miles), I removed the EGR and used a stiff wire to poke into this tube to clean out the inside. I reused the original metal gasket and the code never came back.

I just wanted to point out that in some cases, the splines of the axle on the wheel end get so tightly fused with the hub, you can't separate the axle from the hub no matter what you do with any tool. I've heard people breaking the hub into 2 pieces while using a hydraulic press to separate the axle from the hub. That happened to me on the right front (I didn't break anything, just couldn't separate with a gear puller from Advance Auto after soaking with PB Blaster for a few days). I just replaced the boots and grease. On the left side, the axle and hub came apart with a slight pull. And I don't get lot of snow where I live.

I was wrong earlier saying there was only 1 bulb. There are several on the back side of the panel. The light on the top area in front of the panel I was referring to is for illuminating the gauge needles. These 4 needles on the 96 are not self-illuminating. But my intermittent problem is that when this problem does not show up, all bulbs work. When the problem shows up, none works. The entire panel is pitch black. It's all or none. So it's not a bulb issue. It's probably a bad connection somewhere or a switch on/off issue. This problem did not happen last night.

Worth trying. If I do that, I'd like to replace the bulb since it's 19 years old. Anyone knows the size/# of the bulb? I believe the only bulb is on the top and in front of the panel. It's a 96 Outback.

That's a good thought. I'll try that and report back in a few days.

Wife said it happened twice in the past week. When driving at night with the headlight switch in the on position, all of a sudden the instrument panel (the entire speedo and tach area) went black. The headlights were still illuminating the roads when the panel went black. She then manually turned the headlight switch off and back on. Doing so brought back the instrument panel light both times. The light bulb in the panel has never been replaced (I bought this car new). I think for the 96, there is only 1 bulb located in the top area of the panel supplying light to the entire speedo, tach, fuel and water temp gauges. How should I troubleshoot? That bulb is still good because she can bring the lighting back by turning the headlight switch off and on.

These plastic screws are hollow so need to be tightened with care. I think I paid over $10 at the dealer a few years ago because I broke the old one. It has an o-ring so it's not the threads that seal. Since that purchase, I got a few from junk yard as spare.

The Firestone I have my lifetime allignment with won't try to adjust camber even though my 96 OBW's front struts came with factory camber bolts. They only adjusted toe. 1 week later, I read the FSM and turned the camber bolt myself (on the right front). Brought the car back to Firestone again for anohter allignment job. The print-out said camber (and others) were in spec after my own adjustment.

There are 1 or 2 small coolant hoses under the throttle body, about the thickness of a finger.

I'm interested in this also. Anyone? Found this on ebay but they say it's for 2002 and newer Subarus. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gray-Leatherette-Car-Seat-Covers-Front-Pair-Set-of-2-Faux-Leather-/111532446802?fits=Make%3ASubaru#vi-ilComp

If you need new struts, it's a good time to buy now. From 3/1 till 4/30/2015, buying 4 new struts can get you $40 or $90 back. KYB says all 4 must be purchased on the same receipt. Monroe does not specifically say that but does say ebay purchases do not qualify. I checked around for prices for 96-99 Outback. Amazon has the lowest prices for Monroe struts; Partsgeek has lower prices for KYB. I ordered 4 Monroe for my 96 from Amazon. With 5.3% state tax, total is $267.20 (free shipping). After $90 rebate, net cost is only $177 for 4 struts. I know many folks here prefer KYB but Monroe's final cost after rebate is $48 less for me. For what I need Monroe is just fine.KYB-rebate.pdf2015_Monroe_Take_Control_Rebate_Pad_-_US1-4.pdf

I've been using Valvoline synthetic brake fluid for all of my cars in the past 5-6 years. Internal swelling of hoses is possible. 1 hose is new (OEM) and the other 3 are 18 years old from the factory. But there is no driving-related issues except the left front caliper might have a slight piston-sticking problem. I said "might" because that wheel is always about 10-20 degrees hotter than the right front. But when the left rear caliper (which I replaced 3 months ago) was sticking, it's much hotter (30-40 degrees) than other wheels, and the fluid level in the reservoir did not go up. I do plan to replace the left front caliper before winter this year. I filled the fluid in my garage and always checked the fluid in the same garage. So it's not because the car is on an incline. Well, I'll see what happens after I replace the front caliper and put in new fluid.

Possible. But this much rise in fluid level in short period of time has not happened to any of my cars before. I checked my cars at least once a week. This Subaru, due to its old age, usually 2-3 times a week. I first checked after driving. But the level has remained the same overnight. I also notieced the color of the fluid is a little darker than just a couple of weeks before.

I've been keeping brake fluid level in the reservoir at 1mm below the full line since I replaced the left rear caliper and hose about 3 months ago. At that time, I flushed brake fluid at all 4 wheels and everything is fine after that (no spongy pedal). A few days ago I noticed that the fluid level in the reservoir went up to 1-2 mm above the full line. That's odd. I've never seen brake fluid level going up by itself (no work done to the system). The old caliper's piston was sticking causing very hot wheel. The new re-built one works fine, no more hot wheel. Why did my fluid level go up?