vasy

96 OBW. What is the torque spec for the long mounting/pivoting bolt located to the right of the alternator (when facing the alternator). The bolt is between the alternator and AC compressor. I checked my limited FSM in pdf format but didn't find it. Thanks.

I have a 96 OBW, 2.5. The 97 FSM on oil pump removal says to drain oil and coolant, remove water pump, then remove oil pump. I'd like to know: (1) if water pump must be removed in order for oil pump to be removed; (2) why draining engine oil for the purpose of removing oil pump? Is it necessary to drain oil? Oil pan is lower than the pump. If I let the car sit overnight before I start the job, how does draining oil help with oil pump removal? (3) When I reinstall oil pump, is it better (easier to get the whole job done) to drive in the crank oil seal to the pump when I still have the pump on the floor, or is it better to install the pump to the block first, then drive in the seal? I'm afraid that if driving the seal with the pump off the car, although it's easier to drive it in but during the last moment of the job when I attach the pump to the block, the Utra Gray sealant might get messed up because of unintended movement/friction. I plan to reseal the oil pump and it's my first attempt to deal with the pump.

Does anyone know if the timing belt tensioner roller of the 2-piece (old style) tensioner assembly is the same part for 96 OBW's 2.2 and 2.5 engine? I found 2 part #: 13069AA037 and 13069AA063. Subaru dealer told me they're different but Import Expert told me it's the same. This is the round roller, not the compressible adjuster. I need to know if they are interchangeable.

I removed my 96 OBW left side door panel twice in the past 5 years to work on the window master switch. First time it didn't take me long but the second time, for some reason the panel did not want to go back. Took me a good 30 minutes just to reinstall the panel. Hope I don't have to do it again.

It's common for the oil pump's screws (on the back of the pump) to get loose. If that happens, oil leaks out and builds up pressure. The pressure can push out the crank seal. I've heard that happened to a few folks.

On my 96 OBW 2.5, it's 10mm. I think the torque setting specified by FSM is about 4 ft.lb, but not sure.

An EndWrench article recommends using a special tool to hold both left-side cams before removing timing belt. This tool ensures that the cams don't move at all. But it doesn't do any good if one needs to remove the cam sprocket to replace cam seal, am I right? You can't use this tool if the cam sprocket is not there! EndWrench did not address this left-side rotating-cam issue if the seal needs to be replaced. A related question here - how to remove cam sprocket to replace the seal. I know you can remove valve cover and use an open-end wrench to hold a particular spot on the cam while loosening the sprocket bolt. My question is: can this be done to both intake and exhaust cams (is there room to put your hand and wrench to hold the lower cam)? I see more room around the upper cam, especially if you need to hold the cam and remove the bolt by yourself. Welcome any comments.

My 96 OBW came from the factory with 2 key fobs for power door/lock. I bought this car new so I can tell you with absolute certainty.

Don't have experience with polishing but do have experience with after-market unit. I bought one made in Taiwan for my 96 OBW 6-7 years ago. Now the lens (housing) of the after-market one has started to peel a little. The other headlight is still from factory, a little yellowish but no peeling. I'm going to polish both with non-gel type toothpaste, using a drill attached with a small modified grinding wheel - one with grinding material removed and wrap on several layers of cloth, tightened with rubber bands to keep cloth material on the wheel.

It's leaking coolant from the passenger's side of the plastic side tank. I plan to keep the car for as long as I can so I'd like to get a brand-new one (lasts longer vs. used). I can get a new OEM from 1stSubaruParts.com for $245 shipping included. Radiator.com quoted me $188 including shipping but they wouldn't tell me what brand it is, a little odd to me. For the timing being, I'm using a modified radiator cap that does not pressurize to minimize leak. I've done this before on this Subaru and a 1990 Nissan. Never had water temp issue with the modified cap.

Beemer11: I also need a radiator for my 96 OBW with auto. Do you mind sharing your experience with your replacement? Is your Outback an auto, or 5-speed? Does your replacement from Radiator.com fit perfectly? How is the visual quality of construction? Thanks.

A couple of questions here: 96 OBW 2.5. When I removed the valve covers last time to replace the gaskets for oil leak, I also needed to replace the plugs. So I removed the plugs first, then removed the covers. Now 32,000 miles later, the valve covers are leaking again but it's not time to replace the plugs yet. Can I easily remove the covers to replace the gaskets without removing the plugs? I also plan to replace the smaller gaskets around the plug holes. Do you replace the 12 grommets for the valve cover bolts? These 12 little things cost 3.5 each.

Someone please tell me, when the front CV axle is removed from the AT housing, does AT fluid come out of the axle-to-transmission joint? I've done a front-wheel drive Nissan and AT fluid came out of it and I had to use a container to catch the fluid.

I've been using the cheapest Bosch platinum plugs with 1 ground electrode since 60K miles. My 96 OBW now has 126,000 miles and no plug-related issues. I'm now on the 2nd set of the Bosch.

My 96 OBW had this problem in 2003. It was intermittent but only with warm engine. Got CEL P0335 which lead me to replace the crankshaft position sensor. That cured the problem.

I started using Fumoto valve since 1984 or 85. I used them on 6 cars from VW, Ford, Nissan, 2 Toyota's and Subaru. The one on 1990 Nissan lasted from 1990 to 2008 when I sold the car. No leak except the one on the 96 Subaru. It leaks a few drops after each oil change. The oil leaks out not from the nipple opening where dirty oil normally drains out of, but from the gap where the spring can be seen. I never understand why. A few days after each oil change, I can see a few drops and wipe them off, never leaks again till next time I open the valve to change oil. No leaks at all with all other cars I put the valve on.

One of the posts says that you used carb cleaner to clean the PCV hose. That reminded me of my story with my 2004 Toyota Camry. I removed the PCV valve from the Camry and sprayed carb cleaner into the valve to clean it. Before the cleaning, the valve was working fine and the car was fine. No oil leaks anywhere and no problem at all. I was just being diligent. Guess what happened? The first time I drove this car after cleaning the PCV valve, after about 30 miles of driving, I noticed engine oil leaking out of valve cover gasket and oil filter mounting flange. I replaced the PCV valve with a new OEM valve and oil leak stopped totally next day. In my case, it's obvious that the carb cleaner caused the PCV valve to stick, although I must say the sticking is not much because I moved the valve back and forth at an angle and observed the thing inside moving back and forth. Some of the carb cleaner you used on the hose might have gotten into the valve.

In my case, my Nissan has been regularly maintained. The PCV valve has been replaced several times, about once every 40,000 miles. So the one on the car now is not restricting the air flow. I wonder if using an appropriate one that is different from the stock will reduce crankcase pressure and cause less oil leak. But I guess, by conventional wisdom, if that works for reducing oil leak, it'll create other problem.

I have a 1990 Nissan Maxima with a minor rear main leak for years. Did you replace your Nissan's PCV valves with stock ones, or a different valve with different pressure rating?

120,000 on my 96 OBW (2.5) with original HG. I bought the car new. The only issue I have is oil consumption (not external leak) @ 1 quart/800-900 miles but I can deal with that. OEM PCV valves replaced and checked at regular intervals.

It's fuse #30 in the engine bay on my 96 OBW. The fuse box says it's for clock and room lights. My clock is on the radio. I don't think this fuse's circuit contributed a major portion of the low battery problem but it certainly drew some current. The power door lock system is the main culprit. My battery never totally died because of this. The brand-new Optima got lower voltage than it should after a full charge and sitting 1 night. After pulling these fuses, the voltage stays where it should be.

I often wonder why Subaru and Toyota both recommend rotating front/rear, but not left/right. Their factory tires are not directional for my 96 OBW and 2004 Camry. Trying to achieve more even wear, I always cross-rotate every 5000 - 7500 miles. This also includes my 90 Nissan Maxima. Never had any problems with my non-directional tires. I just bought a 2009 Camry and will need to make a decision in about 5 months. Anyone has additional comments about whether we can/should cross-rotate non-directional tires?

I had the same battery drain problem with my 96 OBW. I traced the problem to keyless entry system and another fuse that controls the radio and map lights above the rear-view mirror. It might just be keyless system alone that caused the problem but I pulled fuses for both systems and the problem is gone. It's been about a year since I pulled the fuses and I decided to keep the car the way it is now. Too much trouble to do a real fix. The engine problem you described is not related to the fuses you're talking about.

My 96 OBW broke from the center just like yours. I bought one from the dealer for about $14 (a lot of $ for the little plug). Don't have the parts # but you can always bring your old one to the dealer. The new one I got doesn't come with an o-ring. Make sure you get a new ring or re-use the old one. I also patched my old plug with JB Weld but hasn't tried it yet. The center part of the plug is hollow and that's why it broke and leaked.