Dog1

Loyale 2.7 Turbo, Key question....where did you order the LED bulbs from? Dog1

Cougar, The count is up to seven, but I think I may have the answer. While at Pep Boys , I played on their Sylvania computer and came up with a number 67 Sylvania bulb for the purpose. It's for driving lights , is twelve volts and is rated at 4cp (whatever that is). It's the perfect size for fitting into the unaltered hole. Anyone know if this is the correct answer? Dog1

Bumping this one up to see if anyone has a good number for this bulb. This is for the running lights on the front of the vehicle.

Counting you........five so far and we still don't know the correct bulb number (BG). Dog1

Too late. It has an 1156 bulb now. I took the other light off and modified the other lense assembly the same way. The guy over at Autozone told me that the 1156 bulb was the one to use. Next time I'm in, I'll quiz him as to what the proper bulb should be. Does anyone out there have the right number for this bulb? Anyone have problems using the 1156 bulb instead? Dog1

Thanks for the replies, but it is a no go. I have the lense unit in my lap and the hole the socket goes into is smaller than the diameter of the 1156 bulb. I know it is the correct bulb, as I have the broken base of the old one. I am replacing the lens as well as the bulb due to an accident that took the lens and old bulb out. Any other guesses? Dog1

I have to change the light bulb (1156)in the right side running light. No problem removing the lense assembly. No problem unlocking the bulb socket. Problem is, I can't get the lens cover off to get at the bulb. It appears that the cover is glued on with some sort of sealent that has turned to concrete with the years. Any easy ways to get the lens off? I don't want to crack the lens, as spares are mighty hard to find in this area. The car in question is a 1987 GL Station Wagon. Any help would be appreciated. Dog1

Steve, Try pouring a couple bottles of ISO HEET into the gas tank, not the carburator. If you are having the same problem that I had, you might also check to see if the airfilter has an ice buildup on/in it. Mine would get warm enough to get the ice on the filter to melt, then the resulting water would mix with the fuel and freeze up the inside of the carburator. Sorry if I wasn't clear the first time. I had to religiously add a bottle of ISO HEET to the tank everytime I refueled to keep the moisture out of my fuel lines. I guess the cheapest gas station in town isn't the best place to fuel up at sometimes. I hope the solution to your problem is cheap and easy to apply. Dog1

If this was a carbed vehicle, I would say that your carberator is iced up internally and you need to put a bottle or two of Iso Heet in it. I had the same problem with my 1984 GL Hatchback and this is what cured it. The new cars can run with water in the gas, but it sure was bad news at 8000 ft in the winter here in Colorado in mine. I still add it to every tankfull I get even though I have a Turbowagon now. Dog1

You know you have it bad when the first tool you reach for is a torch to solve your problem (written by a guy who has a mig, tig, plasma arc, track cutter, multiple oxy/acetylene rigs, and two 300amp plus stick welders) LOL Get help quick before it is too late! Dog1 P.S. I'm going to an auction in a couple weeks of a machine/welding shop going out of business. Need a welding fix? (as I lower my welding hood to hide my shame)

Weird idea, but when was the last time you changed out the air filter? When I replaced mine in my 1984 GL Hatchback, the gas mileage went from 23 MPG to 28 MPG. Dog1

Have her pull the cover off the airfilter housing and look at the airfilter. If it has ice on it, tell her to add some good quality deicer to her gas. The heat from the engine will melt the ice and allow you to get a few more miles, then it will repeat until it stops you again. At least that is what happened to my 1984 Hatchback. I'd wipe the moisture out and make it a few more miles. Finally got all the water out of the gas, put a new filter in , and the problem went away. Sorry, don't live in the Idaho area. Dog1

I had the same thing happen when I called a guy up to put in an offer for a bulldozer I wanted. The other guy was there as I talked to the guy and he told me I could have it if the other guy didn't want it. Missed it by five minutes. I just had something worse happen to me. I decided to get rid of a car I owned (a Subaru) , but didn't want it to go to the junkyard because it still had a lot of life left in it . So I offered it for sale on the board (actually meaning to give it to the first person who really needed a car and would give it a good home). I had two quick responces and the first person was the one who ended up with the car. He told me how his first car had been rearended and he needed something to drive until he could get a project car ready to run. When he asked me the price of the car, I told him I would rather trade services for the car. He didn't respond to that offer, so I asked him how much would he offer for the car. He offered $200 if it would pass emissions. When he finally called my house, I told him that I had actually planned to give the car away for free to a person in need. He said he would pick it up the next night. I gave him the car, title , a gallon of antifreeze, bottle of oil and saw him on his way. The car was a good runner that averaged 28 MPG. It was a beater, but a dependable beater. Imagine my surprise when the person posted that he had a new daily driver and included a picture of his Subaru. Unfortunately, it wasn't my old one. Nor were the other two/ possibly three Subarus in the picture in front of his house. I emailed him concerning the repair of the transmission (wouldn't shift into third) , got no responce so I have to assume that my old Subaru is now either sitting in a junkyard or was rendered down into parts to finance the car project he was working on. In all honesty, I gave him the title, so the car was his to do with as he wished. I just wished it a better fate. So you can see... not only do the buyers get had from time to time. Good Karma will come to those who do good , and the others will get thier rewards also....... Dog1

Giving this a bump to see if anyone can come up with an answer. Dog1

ShawnW emailed me back when he drove it home and said it did ninety mph. I was getting 28 mpg out of it when I last drove it. Third gear in the transmission was out (my guess was the syncros, but Shawn said the shift fork was probably bad). I drove it without third gear or a speedometer for about a year. It's a beater, but a beater with a lot of life left in it IMHO. You need to talk to Shawn about it as I gave him the title and it is his now to decide the fate of. I just thought it needed to go to a good home and/or someone in need with little cash but willing to work on it. Dog1 Dog1@BigMailBox.net

Shawn, Since you don't need the 1984 Subaru Hatchback I just gave you for free, could you give it to someone in need who can make use of it. Looks like you have a full plate (looking at picture of garage). Dog1

James, I have the exact same problem and like you, am facing the wrath of a Colorado Winter (I'm at 8,000ft). I am saving up right now to put it into the shop to get repaired, but would prefer to fix it myself. Like your's , mine engages , dash diagram lights up ,but as soon as I shift it goes back out. A few sharp turns tells me it isn't engaged. If no one on the board comes up with an answer, I'll post what the guys at the shop end up bleeding me for and what they said was wrong. Dog1

Thanks to all who responded. Checked the water pump and didn't have any sideplay. Used a large screwdriver to tighten idler pulley...not the prettiest way to do it, but it got the job done. Had a hell of a time finding the belts. NAPA said they could order them in and get them in a week from Seattle. Four different parts stores later I found some. I envy you guys in Washington and Oregon (AKA Subaru Central). Bill90Loyale. I used to shoot with the Coast Guard up in Alaska when I was stationed at Elmendorf AFB in the early 1980's. Amazing we all survived our youth playing with all those low-bidder munitions and toys. The Air Force should set up a recruiter's site on this website with the number of troops joining up to be mechanics .

Bill90Loyale,Thanks for the info. In other words, just replace it the same way I would do the one on my truck. You will have to forgive me, as I may appear somewhat slow on the mechanics of a modern automobile. I have been accused of being stuck in a time warp when it comes to newer automobiles. Until I got my Subaru, the newest vehicle I owned was a 1977 Dodge Truck (the same one that I have been driving over 25 years and 258,000 miles). I still have vehicles that I drive that date back into the 40's and 50's. I am very carefull working on equipment that I do not have a strong understanding of. This probably came from being in Combat Arms ( AFSC75399) for twenty plus years. Working with weapons and explosives for that long and still having all body parts intact is a result of being very cautious and methodical. Thanks for taking the time to explain things for the old fart who's learning to love Subarus Larry Roa

When I didn't notice an increase in engine temperature, I pressed on the last three miles to home. Will look for weeping out the bottom of the water pump seal (I'm assuming that they work the same as my 1977 Dodge Powerwagon) and will spin the alternator pulley to check to see if it is O.K. . I'll go pick up new belts to replace both of them in the morning. NAPA still the best place to get belts and parts from? Larry Roa

ell was that? All the sudden my emergency brake light came on as well as my charge light. Oil pressure went to zero immediately. You have probably guessed what happened already. The front alternator belt broke and unplugged several of my connectors before it exited my vehicle. Can anyone give me some words of wisdom as to what I should be look out for; or tricks of the trade to make the changing out of the alternator belts as painless as possible? Never changed one on a Subaru, so I hope to avail myself of your knowledge. Larry Roa

As this car is new to me and I have little to no experience with push button four wheel drive engagement , I need some knowledge shared with me before the snows hit up here in Colorado. When I push in the button on the left side of the shifter, the dash panel shows the four wheel drive is engaged. The problem is that the light soon pops of (especially if I upshift). Am I still engaged or not? I had it out in the parking lot early one morning and I had the sensation on being in four wheel drive there, but I don't get the same feel when I'm on the road (harder/jerky stearing in corners) . The only way I can think of testing this out is to jack up the car so all four wheels are off the ground, start it up, put it into gear, engage the four wheel drive switch and have my son tell me if the back wheels are turning as I go through gear changes. Any other (less potentially hazardous) methods out there? Dog1 Blundering my way toward Subaru Knowledge

Myxalplyx, Unfortunately no. Had several unforseen things come up that pretty well wiped out the money I had saved up to do the job. As soon as I get back on my feet financially, it will be on the front burner. I now believe the intercooler is off of a Mitsubishsi (SP) 3000. I think rllywgn has disappeared off the Subaru scope, so I'm just guessing. Any thoughts of what type of stuff I should start looking for to do this job?

I just had the brakes redone on my 1987 GL-10 wagon and the calipers sound like they are not releasing all the way after stopping. I took them back to the shop that did them, but they said they couldn't fiquere out what was wrong. They will not make the noise when you first start out, but after they warm up with use, they will make a loud moaning noise (don't know how else to discribe it). I went to another shop and they suggested that I change out the pads from the semi-metallic ones over to a set of softer organic ones. I've put about three hundred miles on the semi-metallic ones, but they don't appear to be wearing down enough for the problem to go away. The shop who did the brakes originally now wants to try replacing the rotors they turned with another set of turned old ones to see if this is the problem, but I don't want to pay for their experimentation (I already had to pay for two timing belt replacements in a month after the belt they replaced broke within three hundred miles of driving. They said it was a bad idler pully that caused it, but you would think them being a Subaru Specialty Shop, they would of caught it the first time.) Anyone out there have any suggestions?

I stand corrected. I spotted a Subaru wagon with a lift kit in the parking lot of Home Depot today. No hood scoop, but it is nice to know I'm not alone out here. Larry Roa Dog1@BigMailBox.net