Lucenut

Hmm, I must be describing it wrong. The tensioner pulley has a long bolt that moves the pulley to adjust the tension. The part where the bolt threads into split. I thought it was pot metal or something. I believe it is all one piece that the pulley is mounted on.

I have a 98 Legacy L Wagon and need some parts. I broke the tensioner for the alternator idler pulley. I need a new rear hatch latch/handle. Heater temp knob. Sun visors... I have called many used auto parts dealers in Western Wisconsin with no luck. Any ideas would be appreciated.

How bad is replacing axles? Any special tools needed?

They were replacement axles from about 4 years ago. Any recommendations on what axles to purchase?

OK, got it back from the shop. They balanced/rotated the tires and 99.9% of the vibrations are GONE! They said the CV boots are bad and it's cheaper to replace the whole shaft than just the boot. Is that true? These shafts don't have 10K miles on them in 5 years. Do the boots just rot in 5 years? I'll attack the tie rods myself this weekend and then get it aligned I guess. I'll also do the tranny fluid as it's probably never been changed.

Is this what I need? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/A1_Cardone/Steering_Rack/A1261977.html?tlc=Brakes,+Suspension+%26+Steering#desc

OK, I took her in for an alignment/balance job and the guy said the tie rods are shot in the front and he'd replace the whole rack & pinion for $400. Anyone ever done that sort of job? Doesn't sound too hi-tech. I could probably do it myself.

OK, thanks. I had disregarded the "propeller shaft" comment as a joke or something. I'll commence with my plan to check the rear drive shaft, get her aligned, tires rotated/balanced, and do the fluid thing.

Update. I took out the FWD fuse which was in there for almost a year. (It only gets driven a couple of times a week to the store or a couple of miles to lunch somewhere) But the "binding" or whatever when turning tight is almost non-existent now. And the vibration over 60 mph wasn't really there. But I feel a "looseness" or shaking. I must have a bad shaft or something. I have an appointment in the morning at a shop to rotate/balance the tires and do an alignment. Also someone on nasioc.com told me it sounds like the rear drive shaft. I'll also change/flush the transmission fluid, and see where we stand after that.

Thanks Rainman. Maybe I have the description of "torque-bind" wrong. When I back up and turn the wheels fairly sharp, it feels like the differential isn't working. The tires chirp a little like there's a solid axle. I don't get any "clunk" like you describe.

Replace transmission fluid? Any instruction on that? Should I get a Chilton's Manual?

I don't notice any difference in the torque bind when adding the FWD fuse. I emailed a Subaru dealer in Orlando last night and got this response: "From your description of the concerns on your vehicle, it sounds like the transfer clutches inside the transmission are binding, causing the issue when you are turning, and possibly the vibration when you are driving. When Subarus sit for periods of time without being driven, the fluid for the transfer clutches becomes like honey and causes the transfer clutches to bind. Another reason the transfer clutches get damaged is if less than all four tires were ever replaced at the same time. On AWD vehicles, all tires need to be the same size, brand and tread depth. Unfortunately, the only 'real' way to fix it is to have the transfer clutches replaced, which is about an $800.00 repair. It is, however, cheaper than replacing the transmission. As far as the vibration, that could be a number of things, including the transfer clutches. One of the tires could be 'out of round', you could have something bent in the suspension or one of your axles could be bent. One thing you could do to check this yourself is to install the FWD (front wheel drive) fuse. Installing the FWD fuse 'turns off' the AWD. This is only a temporary fix, and the vehicle should not be driven for long periods of time like this. However, it will give you an idea if the transfer clutches are damaged and you can see if the vibration you are having goes away. The FWD fuse is located under the hood on the passenger side near the windshield. It is a small black box labled "FWD". The cover pops open and you can INSTALL a 20 amp regular type fuse. After installing the fuse, you will notice the FWD light on the dash will come on after you start the car. This is just to let you know that the vehicle is now in FWD and not AWD. After you install the fuse and drive the vehicle, please let me know if the vibration goes away. If not, we can schedule an appointment to have you come in and have the vehicle checked out. You mentioned on your appointment that you would like an alignment, however, an alignment will probably not fix the vibration when you are driving. An alignment is done when the vehicle is pulling to either side. Please let me know how this works out." Any opinions on his diagnosis/price?

Hi all. I am moving across the country and trying to decide if I want to haul or drive my 98 Legacy L wagon. It has 120K miles. Everything is in pretty good shape, but I have never solved the torque bind issue on slow speed turning. And it has a pretty bad shake over 60mph that I haven't solved. I work from home so it has rarely been driven the past 5 years. About 5 years ago I replaced front bearings, discs, and shafts to fix the shake. But it's only gotten worse. It doesn't happen all the time. When you get over 60 mph it comes and goes. I don't know of a local Subaru or even import mechanic to go to. Anyone knowing a Subaru expert in Central Florida or have advice on where to start? It looks like the blue book value of it is about $5K. I would like to keep it around for a few more years but need to fix the shake.

I have a 98 Legacy L wagon. The battery seemed to have been losing it's juice the past 6 months. I only drive the car once or twice a week at most. Sometimes when it hadn't run for a week or so the battery would be dead. I'd just stick the charger on it for the night and it would be good for a couple of weeks. This week charging the battery didn't work, so I replaced the battery with a brand new battery I had as a spare for my boat. It is slightly bigger in size so I had to remove the plastic battery tray, but it is big enough to start the GM 350 in my old ski boat. But after installing the battery it only made a few clicks. So I thought perhaps that battery was low after sitting in a compartment in the boat for 6 months. So I put the charger on it overnight. This morning it won't start and doesn't even make clicks! The power door locks work, but sound a little weak. I looked at the fuse panel under the dash and in the engine compartment and didn't see anything sounding like an ignition fuse. Any ideas? I don't know what to try next. My cheapo multimeter seems to be dead also, so I'll have to get out and get something to tell battery status

I'm having a hard time getting started on my 98 Legacy L wagon. It just sits in the drive getting driven one a week 3 miles or something. It has oil leaks, torque bind, Now it sounds like a u-joint is gonna pop if you turn tight... but it's paid for, and just my style so I'd like to resurrect her. I plan to just jack it up saturday and see what I find underneath. I've read some threads about finding oil leaks. That sounds like an adventure. Also read about changing axles... I'll take some pics and post my findings. Anyone have advice on what to look for? Oh and she has 150K. I think I had the front shafts replaced about 5 years/20K miles ago. I think I had new discs on the front around the same time. I wouldn't mind lifting her a little like even just the Outback struts/springs deal. I hear that lifts a couple inches right?