Caboobaroo

The EJ flywheel, like stated before, will not work with an EA box, period. Your best option if this is a street car, is to use an XT6 flywheel as it's the lightest of the EA series flywheels and uses the largest clutch disc. For off-roading, you'll want something with a bit more weight to help with low speed, low RPM torque. I'm in the process of making an adapter plate to bolt onto an EA/ER engine so I can run the EJ box, EJ flywheel and clutch. Currently have a '97 LGT 4.11 5-speed and an OS Giken twin disc clutch to run behind the built ER27 I'm in the middle of.

The the 2004 and 2005 Cal-spec emission cars, the P0420 is a nightmare. This is three cat, 5 oxygen sensor system. Had one in recently that I put a new B1S1 oxygen sensor in to see if it would help (this is after another shop did an cheap B1 cat) and within a couple weeks, it was back with a P0420. By the time I was done (over 3 different visits), the car had all three cats and all 5 sensors replaced. Don't cheap out on the cats if you do need to replace one. I would start by checking the 02 sensor reading to see if you have a lazy sensor. Basically a sensor that isn't sending the ECU info fast enough.

What's the year and model? I had a 92 Legacy come in with a bad master cylinder after another shop did complete front brakes. I replaced the master but noticed it wouldn't bleed out properly. Found the ABS module was leaking from the backside where the case halves come together. Replaced it with a working used unit and sent it down the road.

I've left them in high and run it without and linkage before without any issues. Just remove the bracket and what's left of the cable from the transmission and hold onto it for later.

Glad to see you still have it!

2006 was the first year of the variable valve timing on the nonturbo 2.5 liter.

Looks about right. I would say that the pistons in the EA are JDM EJ25D pistons from how deep the valve reliefs are cut. That is a ER27 as well, and turbo pistons.

I've seen a similar issue when people install lowering springs themselves. They tend to forget to keep the conical washer on top of the spring perch which is what the top bearing rides on. Makes it bind while turning which sounds like your symptom. Since you have coil overs, you don't have that washer but that doesn't mean the bearings aren't binding. Could be improper installation or the bearings are extremely worn. If you can, jack up the front end until the wheels are just off the ground. Then unbolt the three nuts on the top hats underhood and let it drop down. You need to get the studs clear of the mounting holes and see how each side spins. If it doesn't free spin, you found a problem.

From my experience, do NOT use Fel-Pro on the 2.5s. The metal they use is a lot thinner then 6-Star, the coating cannot withstand more then 20k miles before it's floating around in the cooling system (nothing like seeing blue flecks while diagnosing an overheat). Check out All Wheel Drive Auto's website. They sell a complete kit with everything you'll need for the job and to do it right.

It's unfortunate but the stereo and HVAC controls in the 2005-2009 have major issues. We have replaced 4 in the last 6 months due to parasitic draws, inop HVAC controls, inop stereo control, etc. I've also seen a couple issues with the door switches back feeding into the system do to an internal short, causing a draw as well.

I was able to get a set of new column covers from the dealership. I'm not sure about the rest though.

I have a MPFI XT engine at work that is NA. Will try and get you the desired numbers tomorrow.

I have both the Snap-On 3/8" and 1/2" electric impacts and they are now my go to. I used to use a pneumatic Mac 3/8" and a Snap-On 1/2" and even though the electrics aren't as strong as the pneumatic guns they're great for 80% of the work I do. I've also modified the 3/8" to accept the larger 18 volt battery from the 1/2" on it. Granted I've also installed the updated motor to handle the extra bit but I don't have to change the battery as often.

Yes, it will bolt right in. If you are looking at used, make sure they're lower mileage or if they have higher miles, swap in a new set of struts. If you have an H6 engine, you will want to use the Outback springs in combination with the Legacy struts. The front springs are stiffer to accommodate the heavier engine.

Like Gary said, head gasket issues aren't as prevalent as the EJs but are a lot more time consuming to do them. Mostly they like to leak oil from the valve covers, oil cooler and timing chain case. They also have a common electrical issue regarding the throttle position sensor. It can cause bucking and unsteady throttle feel especially when you get on an incline. I've had issues with mine the last couple years but it didn't get real bad until yesterday. Ordered a new TPS and the short wiring harness that goes to it (as they can sometimes have a bit more resistance in the wiring) but the harness itself isn't cheap.

The issue with that code isn't an AWD/FWD issue. It's the solenoid that controls the torque converter lockup is malfunctioning and not allowing the torque converter to either lock up or unlock.

I believe the center one is an IAC gasket and the bottom two are spider intake coolant crossover gaskets.

On almost all 2000 and newer Legacy/Outback/Baja share the same box even if it didn't have the filters. Remove the glovebox and surrounding plastic to get the whole glovebox out and disconnect the plug on the resistor which will be pointing straight at you after the glovebox is removed. Then there will be 4 metal clips that hold the resistor plate onto the box, I use a small flathead screwdriver to pop them off. Once the plate is removed you will see a slot where the filters will go. The lower one will come out first, followed by the upper one. The new ones will be marked for the proper direction to install them.

My 2004 Outback sedan is the same way. With stock size tires, it would read 3mph faster then both the ECU and GPS would read. I'm now 5mph fast since I swapped to a different tire size but it's consistently off. Haven't figured it out, maybe some extra resistance in the speedo head? I've got a lot of other projects to work on and it doesn't really bother me.

I see them leak all the time. I tend to drill a small hole in it and thread a small slide hammer into it and pop it out. Seen other guys tap a screwdriver through it near the edge and pry but you would want to be careful as to not score the aluminum or cam shaft.

I found that I had to use an OEM o-ring on my XT6 as all the aftermarket versions I found were not quite as thick as the OEM one. Had two of them start leaking after 10,000 miles before I fitted the OEM o-ring.

When I saw this thread pop up, it made me laugh to go back through and read it.

Fuel pressure should be 36psi while running. anything higher means it probably has a fuel pressure regulator issue. If it over field itself, it's possible it washed the cylinders and now it doesn't have enough compression to start. Easiest thing to do is hold the throttle wide open and crank. It will shut the fuel off to the injectors and hopefully burn off the excess that's in there.

Also, unlike the older models, the Duty C solenoid that engages the AWD clutch pack is now part of the valve body assembly instead of being by itself. Only option to replace the Duty C solenoid is to replace the entire valve body assembly.

I might have time this weekend as it's just a few miles up the freeway from me. I already have some stuff to do but could have some free time on Sunday to go look at it for you.