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Caboobaroo

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Everything posted by Caboobaroo

  1. an aftermarket fuel setup would be the ideal way to go with any upgraded injectors on these cars. A MegaSquirt kit is the most used here on the board and there's a few people who have built them themselves or have decided they were going to make a few for people, plus there's some that have boughten a kit and made it work with the EA82T. My problem is I was running a stock ECU with all of my mods, shoulda been one of the things to do before I decided to scrap the car after its 3rd engine:rolleyes:
  2. 280ZX turbo injectors are roughly 260cc whereas the EA82T injectors are 185ccs roughly. Remember, even though they're bigger, the ECU won't like the fact that they're different and the car won't quite like you. It'll run funny, idle funny and will have a slight shudder at about 4k rpms. At least my RX did when I had it running... TD04, WRX TMIC, Nissan 280ZX turbo injectors, spyder intake, AFPR, 3" bellmouth downpipe, stock EA82T with Delta 260 cams, and a few other small items.
  3. Keith is DrKrazy;) I'm Russ:-p I bought the car for very cheap and this was one of the only issues with it was a busted out window and a new one was quoted to me right after I bought it for $159 but somehow in a month, it became a dealer only item and went up to $515 before my 25% discount and an extra $40 for installation because I'm lazy.
  4. If someone can get me the window from it, I will gladly pay you for it and your time to get it. Thanks for the heads up Keith!
  5. This EA81 was bolted up to the original FWD 5-speed and was also bolted up to a d/r 4-speed in a '85 Brat as well. It had the 4wd flywheel on it from the Brat also... I dunno if that helps.
  6. So I can't find a window for my Audi in Laramie, which sucks. Found out that the window I need is a dealer only item which is after intallation, $430! For a window??? I need the driver side rear door window for an '89 Audi 100E. A window from a 200 and I believe a 5000 series should work as well. I'm definate on the 200 series fitting for it. So if you see one in a junkyard down there with a good window, PLEASE call me so I can go down there and get it... I'm asking because the lot of you go to more junkyards in a weekend then I seem to in a year.... Thanks in advance...
  7. Maybe Noss thought it was Halloween already! Looks like a blast but I couldn't say no to double time an hour today...
  8. I used part of a beer box to make one a few years ago. Never gave me any headaches. I also used some sealant for 2 stroke dirt bikes that is petroleum proof and it worked awesome. I still use that sealant to this day actually!
  9. I'm out as well. Roads are slicker then ************ and work offered me double time to come in and work for a few hours....
  10. What would cause it to not be swappable as far as the bellhousings are concerned? Its the side mounted starter EA81, not the top mounted starter EA81s that came in the '81 Brats.
  11. I know people have put EA81s into an EA82 chassis before but I have a few umm questions. I have a fully resealed EA81 solid lifter from an '81 2wd wagon sitting in my garage. My '87 coupe is an EA82 SPFI. I want to put the EA81 into the coupe while using the SPFI that is stock with the car. I know it can be done but what all would it take? I know there's a mod to the disty that has to be done, and the power steering bracket will bolt to the engine I believe (saw an EA81T with an EA82 power steering setup on it). I'm going to disconnect my AC as well since after I move, I'm going to do the EJ20 swap into it. I don't think it'll be that hard but what problems would I run into? I'm also swapping the engine crossmember with a turbo one (the one from the RX which has been modded for the 5-lug), swapping my whole 5-lug conversion, and swapping in the RX 5-speed as well. Thoughts? Comments? Opinions? It'll be driven on the freeway from Laramie to Seattle!
  12. I'm going to be doing a very similar swap into my '87 coupe ocne I move to Washington! After that, I'd be down for a photo shoot as well!
  13. gen 1s and gen 2s have a lot in common but there are things you can do to make life easier on yourself. I believe that I have been the only person on the board to put a full EA81 suspension setup that bolted right into a gen 1. Granted the control arms I had to do some fab work to but it wasn't anything difficult, just need a metal lathe and a welder. When you start looking for new parts for your gen 1, you'll find that the balljoints are roughly $35 a piece for lifetime warranty, plus as you found out, are a bear to get off when they've been on there awhile. The EA81 lifetime warranty balljoints are roughly $18 a piece which is a huuuge difference IMHO. This is also another reason why I decided to upgrade. If you can do fab work or know of a friend that does fab work, you can do quite a few things to it to help beef up the brakes and keep costs down for future repairs. How I did it was I used the EA81 control arm, knuckle, balljoint, vented discs with matching calipers and used my stock EA71 struts. Everything bolted right up except the stabilizer bar that goes from the control arm to the tranny crossmember. The stock EA81 stabilizer bar is about 6" too short and like you said, the stock one is welded to the control arm. This is where the lathe comes in. I found some solid round stock that was a little larger in diameter then the original, cut it the same length as the original EA71 stabilizer bar, stuck it in the lathe and turned the end down to the same measurements as the original (where it bolts to the tranny crossmember). I then tapped the end of it to a standard thread pitch since the hardware and the tap were cheaper, then bolted it to the tranny crossmember, bolted in the rest of the suspension and put the weight of the car on the control arm with a jack. After that, I tack welded it to the control arm with a 110 volt welder, pulled it out and welded it up nice and strong with a big 220 volt welder. I got some pics of it on the wagon if you care to see but if you do decide to do something like this, it'll save you headaches for trying to get the right parts, plus it'll give you the better vented brakes!
  14. my '78 did 110 down the freeway but that was with the high compression EA71 in it. It would go more but without any suspension in it, made it a little scary.
  15. replace the fuel filter. Then if its still low, I'd replace the pump. Other then that or a clog in the lines, or a bad FPR, there's really nothing else that can cause a bad fuel pressure.
  16. wow 10am? Thats quite early for me but I'll try to make it. I'll see about riding along with some of the other guys though... FWD Audi FTL:rolleyes:
  17. I'm with B but of course I decided to be a little hard on it........
  18. I got this from Hondasucks but I have also made my own. I have a cam sprocket from an EA82 with two bolts welded through two opposite holes. On the backside, I have a larger, Harbor Freight socket (7/8" IIRC) welded onto the center of it and then I can put a breakerbar in it and use it to tension timing belts.
  19. I can do the 18th but the 17th.... I'm scheduled to work until 3pm... argh
  20. I'm down too but I'd have to ride along... the Audi isn't AWD but hey, it runs awesome:headbang: And thats right after I get paid, w00t!
  21. ok now we gotta get a few things straight.... First off, the EJ22 is a very reliable engine and it WILL fit into that chassis without mods to the frame rails. However, the clearance between the valvecovers and the frame rails is very tight so I would slightly notch them for a little extra clearance. The EJ22 is acutally narrower then the EA82 and I've seen an EA82T put into a '79 Brat. The EA81 only came in the '81 GL Brats. You could still get an '81 with the EA71 but it was the top of the line '81 GL Brat that had the EA81 top mounted starter, d/r 4-speed, different instrument cluster with tach, plaid interior, wood grain trim in the dash, and so on and so forth. I have heard that you need an engine crossmember from the '81 Brat to put a EA81 into an earlier year but I've also seen a EA81 put into a '77 4wd wagon without it so basically its a fit and go type deal. With the EJ22, there is a LOT of mods that have to be done like suspension, brakes, wiring, fuel lines, relocation of the master cylinder possibly, and a lot of other stuff like that. The EA81 will drop onto the crossmember, the wiring harness with a couple connector mods will work on it and the tranny has to be swapped. Then for the shifter linkages, the hole in the tranny tunnel has to be widened up, tranny crossmember will have to be fitted somehow (there's some recipe with parts to make one work), but the driveshafts and the axle shafts are the same. I did a full EA81 suspension and brake upgrade on my old '79 4wd wagon. I went from the stocker stuff to EA81 control arms with custom made radius rods, EA81 balljoints, knuckles, axles, vented rotors and calipers, and stock EA71 struts with "specialized" coils on them. With the EA81, you don't need to upgrade the suspension or brakes but the vented rotors and calipers will give you longer life on your brakes, prevent brake fade vs the solid rotors, and the parts are cheaper. Plus, they bolt directly onto the stock EA71 knuckles.
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