Caboobaroo

you need the CV ends so the front wheels don't fall off, not on the tranny. I believe there should be one axle in the back and one stub in some of the EA81 suspension parts I had under it. There are some of the original knuckles, control arms and such, but one knuckle is painted black and has no bearings in it since I glassbeaded it before I painted it. If you can get the knuckles (or wheel bearings and seals for one side), calipers, rotors, new balljoints or good used ones, you could put the original front end back together. Ther is no engine in it, its in the garage on the floor. I thought I sent you a link to the pics? I can't remember but here it is, and the most recent pics are the last ones, which I took a little over a year ago... http://rides.webshots.com/album/302448662rflEga

Thanks for the info Daeron. Only thing about the MAF which I have checked, that if its unplugged, the ECU will see this and throw the car into a limp mode. I've done it before and the car still ran, just poorly and would rev above 3500rpm or so. I'm thinking its my fuel pressure as well. I have heard of the Ford fuel pump deal but why spend money on one when I got 2 perfectly good stock fuel pumps?:-p I'll see about blowing air through the lines to see if that will help. I'm going to disconnect the line from the intake and from the tank and blow away and see what kind of garbage that has built up in it comes out, if any. If there is a lot, then I have a new OEM fuel filter (one is a Purolator IIRC). I'm going to start with the 3 basic items, fuel, air and spark. I know I have good spark for sure cause I got a nice shock off of it when I was rotating the disty to see if it was a timing issue. If all those check out, next will be to triple check my timing to see if its spot on, just to rule it out, then I'll be cleaning sensors. First sensor that I can think of that would possibly do this might be the coolant sensor but by the time I figured out where it was, it was too cold to clean it. Right now, its 0 degrees out. Thats pretty warm compared to yesterday!

I've removed/installed EA71s with me and the aid of a helper. They're pretty light and I can move one by myself. In order to put remove and engine/install an engine for that car, here's a rundown on what needs to be done... top two bellhousing bolts (14mm), pitch stopper needs to be removed (12mm nut and 14mm bolt on firewall IIRC), 2 - 17mm nuts on the bottom of the bellhousing, disconnect radiator hoses, disconnect electric fan and thermoswitch, remove radiator (2 - 12mm bolts), disconnect engine wiring harness (1 plug), disconnect 2 heater hoses, disconnect throttle cable, remove 4 - 14mm nuts on exhaust, remove 2 - 14mm nuts on engine mounts -> crossmember studs, disconnect alternator wiring, disconnect grounds from battery and possibly to the body as well, and then just lift the engine and pull out. Its easier to put a jack under the front diff case and jack it up to help with clearance for removing and installing the engine as far as the engine mounts. I might have missed something but that should be it. I also like to disconnect the clutch cable but its not nessessary until installation.

it is possible but the rear mains on these like to have a hissy fit after many years and many miles on them. I've had a couple gen 1s that have had a weep from the input shaft but the rear main seal is usually the main source of a leak. Replace it because if you don't, it'll eat your clutch up and then you'll have to replace it anyways.

'89 RX turbo - 208k miles on chassis '87 EA82 GL coupe - 256k miles '79 4wd wagon - 375k miles

'87 coupe, SPFI EA82, FWD 3AT. Talked mroe to the guy I bought it from since i bought it not running. When I went to look at the car, it would turn over and want to fire, but didn't. The guy told me (since he's from Oregon too), that he bought it in Ashland before moving out here, drove it out here and it started to spit and sputter and finally died because it didn't want to run without sputtering real bad. I'm thinking a fuel issue so once I get it to the dealership where its nice and warm, I'm going to test the fuel pressure. FSM says it should be at 21psi, correct? Fuel pump comes on, TB is getting fuel, appears to have a new, or relatively new fuel filter. Could the pump be worn out to the point that it can't put out the fuel pressure? Its not making any funny noises either. Would a fuel pump work from a '89 EA82T MPFI car? Would altitude have anything to do with it? It went from like 1000 feet above sea level to 7200 feet above sea level. Also, this car won't be havin the crappy FWD 3AT in it any longer... FT4wd 5-speed FTW!

eh, close enough:-p

Umm but I've seen an '81 GL Brat 1800 and it was a top mounted Craig... Maximum Brat's engine to be precise. Sitting on an engine stand in her dad's shop and it was a top mounted EA81...

that car would need some serious pulling on a frame rack to even get near being straight again. Part it, because if you can get it fixed, it won't ever drive like it should again. Or get another WRX body and swap it in there:Flame:

Head bolts get torqued in a sequence, you do realize. Here's also the list of the torque specs according to my '87 FSM... 1st step for headbolts 22 ft-lbs. 2nd step 43 ft-lbs. 3rd step 47 ft-lbs. Here's the sequence for the headbolts http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2611352520067339125VDhZqM Cam case bolt torque is 12.7-14.8 ft-lbs. Valve cover bolt torque is 4.4-5.4 ft-lbs. Intake manifold torque is 13-16 ft-lbs.

engine won't bolt up to the tranny, sorry. The tranny you have is a top mount starter EA81 tranny which only came in the '81 GL Brats. You can take an older EA71 from a gen 1 and bolt it to it but the bellhousings are different between the newer EA81/EA82 then this EA81. The ticking from the EA82 is probably a lifter tick. Unless the engine has bad compression in one of the cylinders, there's no need to rebuild it. Also, if the heads aren't warped, no need to replace those either. Just get a full gasket set from Subaru and do a complete reseal from top to bottom and you should be fine. Depending on the miles though, I'd recommend new water and oil pumps as well.

the trip permit will be in your name, however the plates and such will still be registered to the previous owner. The trip permit will alow you to drive it and if for some reason, you do get pulled over, show the officer the title and a bill of sale. This makes the car legally yours to drive with a trip permit.

Nope its not. The turbo brat got put down awhile ago.... The tranny is now in the red t-coupe Chef_Tim has and the engine is in his silver t-coupe. It was just something to keep in mind though.

Mike, Bill (LUVMYBRAT) is running a set of tires that size on his Brat and at the altitude, it makes it a little harder to stay at a constant speed on the freeway. He says that he has to keep it in 3rd gear to get from Cheyenne to Laramie for the most part, running like 4500rpms. Just something to keep in mind...

On the motor he got the tranny from...

Mike, you're probably have to put some 25 spline DOJs onto your EA81 axles. Don't know exactly how it would work but look for people who have put an EJ tranny into an EA81 and see what they did for axles.

I got your PM and shot you one back. I do have everything you need to get it back onto the road, even some nice snow tires on steel wheels:-p

I just called Donny and talked to him about this. He gave me a short list of parts needed and I told him I have everything, but that YOU were the one taking care of it all;) Anyways, he also said your brother who lives here, is making a trip up your way in a couple months and we might be able to get together and get you the needed parts. Also, I told him that if there was some way to get the car here, I could have it all done in 2 hours, plus it would leave here with a nice set of snow tires:brow: Shoot me a PM and we'll work something out!

Well it seems my swap is going to be postponed for about 6 months. I guess I'm moving at the end of May to Seattle:headbang:

Shoot me some pics and I'll talk to LUVMYBRAT (Bill) to see what he thinks. We both are in the Laramie area (I live here and he works here but lives in Cheyenne) and I have a ton of parts. Get some pics and I'll see what I can do with Donny's car. After all, I've known this car since before he ever left Bend!:-p I also have a full EA82 front suspension setup which is perfect for this car. Shoot me a PM or if Donny wants to, have him call me cause he has my number.

this is why I'm glad I swapped to dual electric fans. I had the same problem with my '87 coupe because they were on oober tight. a 10mm wrench with a 13mm wrench on that (poor man breaker bar) and a pair of Channel Locks and I was good to go

reseal the engine and put it into my wagon:brow: You know you want it! I got pics of it if you're interested:-p

doesn't look bad at all but not for $1000! The main areas on these to look for rust are the bottoms of the front fenders, behind the wheels. Poke at it hard with your finger. If it doesn't go though, then they should be pretty solid. The exhaust looks to be all original. The piece you were wanting to know what it was is not stock. Could be part of that nasty looking trailer hitch, which you should get rid of! Interior looks a little beat but at least that dash is either original or has been replaced from another Brat ("A69L" is the vin code for a Brat). The wheels on it don't appear to be stock. The wagon wheels are EA81 style, and the steels are probably EA81s as well. Engine looks to need the following seals... front and rear crank seals oil pan gasket valve cover gaskets oil pump gasket Should be good as new after a few pressure washings! If I were you, I'd get in on a new windshield gasket because the old gaskets like to crack right there letting water in, which is probably why it was siliconed up. I've seen it done on probably 7 gen 1 vehicles.

No problem Phil:-p Oh and that last post of yours was #1,000! lol:banana:

The Brats that had the center light were a gen 2. People have modified then to work in a gen 1 though but it requires cutting the grille and making it bolt into the radiator support.