Caboobaroo

Max boost I'd run on a stock EA82T would be 10psi so it doesn't run too lean and cause detonation (bye bye pistons, hello holes!). Factory spec compression ratio is 7.7:1 Now my '89 RX (now a parts car) had a real bad case when I got it. Waterpump went out due to bearings in it, thus overheating the car to the point of blowing the headgaskets, then overheated more to the point of cracking BOTH generation 2 heads into the exhaust port. Basically, if you blow a headgasket or its overheating, pull over! Let it cool off, check the coolant level and fill it up if low. If its eating water like crazy, then best bet would be to tow it instead of trying to limp it anywhere except to a safe location (off a road into a parking lot).

yeah so do I! So the end of January I'm going to start the swappage from the RX to the coupe (5-lug, bodykit and stuff like that). Hopefully I can get the car ready for the engine and tranny when I get them, get them ready, and start dropping them in. I don't really want to deal with trying to button other things up like the suspension, brakes and whatnot while I'm still trying to get the engine and tranny worked out. I have this tranny (its a push style hydraulic I believe) with clutch and such, an extra EA82 driveshaft so I can have the front of it shortened to work with the EJ tranny. On a kind of side note, how can one tell what the final drive ratio of the tranny is seeing that I don't have the rear diff from the parts car. If its a 3.9, I might as well go ahead and swap my LSD carrier from my 3.7 and put it into a 3.9 casing! Another question that has been in my mind but I can never seem to remember to post it. The coupe I am doing this conversion to is originally an SPFI car. How is this going to effect the swap compared to a MPFI vehicle? I do still have my RX so I can grab anything from it I might need.

well you have to remember that JDM engines come from Japan, where the cars are RHD whereas our cars are LHD. Instead of like lets say, the port for the brake booster on the intake, being on the left side of the intake, it'll be on the right side of the intake, that sort of stuff. Nothing major from what I gather, just a few little things like that.

you have to remember, I've dumped plenty of money into my RX with the EA82T. I can probably spend LESS money (bought the car for less too!) then I have on my RX and still have a ton of goodies. I figure after the EJ20K swap, awd 5-speed, rear VLSD, my 5-lug conversion, turbo goodies which I have (GReddy Profec II B-Spec EBC and matching TT), bodykit and lots of other stuff, I'll have LESS money into this car then my RX, or roughly the same. So money isn't too much of an issue even though I'm planning on getting a second job (my OT is getting cut at the GM center). Besides, I got lots of parts to sell as well!

So ok, what I'd like to see is a pic of the passenger side without any sheetmetal on it (ie the fender and hood) so I can get a better look of how badly the subframe is bent down or up. Then I can determine which way the fram will need to be bent and some advice on how to do it. It seems that since the frame isn't that badly out of wack, that this will probably go back fairly easily, especially since there's a plug hole right where the bent portion is.

You should have the 3.7 final drive so fi you get a turbo 5-speed, then you'll be set on that area. Also, the axles will be a 25 spline as well so if you decide to get a 5-speed from a NA car, then you'll need to convert the axles to a 23 spline DOJ. On your 4EAT, since it is an electronic tranny, you'll have to figure out a way to start the carunless you have more success getting the two wires that are for the neutral safety switch on the tranny, to close. I did the same exact swap on my '89 RX (4EAT -> FT4WD 5-speed d/r) and I figured out which wires needed to be conencted for that but for some reason, it never worked! So I hooked up a pushbutton instead on the dash, only gets power when the key is in the "START" position and started the car very nicely. Other then that, GD summed it up pretty good. One thing on the clutch setup though, you'll want to get a clutch kit for a turbo car or for an XT6 and have a stock turbo flywheel machined to an XT6 spec (slightly bigger and better clutch over the stock turbo clutch).

Another thing to check is the battery cables themselves. Sometimes they can get corrosion into the cables under the insulation which will put a serious voltage drop in them, thus, not allowing the starter to get enough juice. This is soemthing else to consider if the battery tests out fine.

yeah those are pretty good deals, however, they're twin turbos, not really something I'm looking to try and modify to put into my coupe. Too much work for me right now. However, I am liking the look of that 4:11 VLSD:brow:

For pulling clamps, I have found some modified Vise-Grips do very well. I welded on a hook to the handle of a larger pair, welded on a body file for lead and metal to the jaws after I cut them into 2 - 1" pieces and voila! The body file pieces give it more of a "bite" to the metal, then the hook gets chained up to the rams we have on our frame rack at the shop and pull pull pull! If anything with that lower frame rail, take it to a shop and have them pull it where it needs to be but tell them thats the ONLY thing you need done. Also, make sure that you have cut off everything that you're replacing so its pretty stright forward for them. They might charge you like 5 hours of frame time for it but I figure that might be easier then trying to replace it from another car.

You need one like mine!

Now... did the control arm get bent because the wheel was hit or because the front end is so out of whack that it caused it to stuff the wheel into the wheel well? If you're into doing this repair yourself, I'll try and help you in the right direction. First off, if you can source an EA81 Brat/coupe/sedan/wagon down there for cheap or free, I'd buy it as long as the front end was good (back end could be smacked to the rear seat for all you care). Then, remove all the sheetmetal from your Brat (ie fender, hood), along with the radiator, everything from the strut tower forward and everything on the core support. Now you can access the damage of your Brat and then take some pics of it. If the damage doesn't go further back then the front of the strut tower, you can cut off the upper frame rails (where the fender bolts too), drill out the spot welds that hold the core support to the lower right frame rail and the spot welds that hold the core support to the upper and lower frame rails on the driver side as well. This will give you all (or most) of what needs to be replaced, off the car. Then access how bad the lower frame rail on that side is. In the pics, it doesn't look too bad but looks can be decieving, especially with a bunch of twisted metal around it. If its straight, then take your parts car, and removed the same metal in the same sort of fashion as you did off of your Brat. Also, another tool you'll want to invest in, and is very cheap, is a tape measure. Granted, you can't be precise with it but it'll help you make sure you got the front end square with the side that wasn't hit. You'll want to measure corner to corner. Before you weld it, clamp it all together with Vise Grips so then you can measure and measure and measure before you weld it up. Find a friend with a welder and weld it back together. Then hang your sheetmetal and if you made sure it was almost perfectly square, you shouldn't have any problems hanging the fender and hood. Oh yeah, I work in a bodyshop:-p

I haven't bought Matt's engine yet seeing I'm waiting for the holidays to pass (I hate spending money on family...). I have thought about the Megasquirt but I can mate the EJ harness up to my stock harness in a weekend, whereas for me to build a Megasquirt right now, isn't on the top of my "goals" list. I might later down the road but for now, I want to keep it stock and get it running good before I do any real sort of modifications. I just need to get me a good running vehicle here soon... since bumming rides and walking kinda sucks in 18" of snow:rolleyes:

it is a possibility that its an external water leak from the headgasket. Have you checked to see where the coolant line under the turbo goes into the bottom of the head? I have seen one that leaked from there due to a bad copper crush washer.

how much play is in the throttle shafts that control the butterflies inside the carb? If there's enough play in the shaft, then it'll allow it to leak and thus, stumble like its a toddler trying to walk.....

are you plugging them in while its running? You need to plug them together before you start it. Then mess with the disty. Another thing you can do is disconnect the battery for 2 minutes to reset the ECU, hook the battery back up and connect the green connectors. After that, start the car. If your car still doesn't want to start and you're getting the MAF code again, disconnect it and the car should kick itself into a "LIMP" mode. Car will run but won't run very good. This is also a method to test the MAF sensor.

Maybe you should label your pics to give us an idea of what lines you're referring too. There's one in the second pic, all the way on the right, bolted to the strut tower which goes to the vacuum booster on the brakes.

Yeah we're getting dumped on pretty good up here, just without all the deep standing snow.. just the massive snow drifts from the wind:-\ I wish they'd send us home when its nasty out like this but noooooo LGMAC is like the last place to shut down, with the exception of Wal-Mart

well I found the whole engine, ECU, and harness for $950 in Denver from a guy who just recently joined the USMB but I've known him over on www.awdpirates.com since I joined there. Plus, he's been around that board forever and a lot of people trust him. He told me the only things that were missing from the engine were the turbo and the intercooler, which I have both. He also said he had taken the intake for another engine he built for someone or himself but he had the "G" intake which would work with everything for the "K" engine. Plus, I have a AWD 5-speed from a parts Impreza, clutch/flywheel, and a few other items needed for the swap, which were free or trading some mechanicing time. I also have the complete 5-lug conversion with Impreza front suspension and such under my RX which will be going into the coupe as well. Really the only items I think I might need right now would be depending on what style the tranny is (hydro vs. cable) for the pedal cluster and a matching rear diff. So I'm thinking for everything I'll need still including the cost of the engine, I might be in the $1800 range or so, which is waaaaay less money then what I put into that stupid RX!

YES! Cheaper is definatly in my budget! I got 2 EA82 drivelines laying around so I'll take one of them to a shop and have it shortened. Dave, you have any other thoughts on the intakes?

Yes, the GL-10 line was supposed to be the top of the line edition for the EA81/EA82. However, you could get a GL-10 without a turbo on the EA82s (just NA MPFI) and you could get a GL EA82 with all the options as a GL-10 but it wsa badged a "GL" (turbo'd EA82 GL comes to mind). There's tons of different things you could get/not get depending on the model line and special ordered cars with extra options, etc. etc. etc.

it'll be a burnt valve. One of the very few issues the EA71s have

Nice, thankfully I have a couple EA82 driveshafts and hopefully the one from the parts Impreza. So Dave, I put a post over in the new gen forum about the intakes and Corky said the EJ20K engine will work with the "G" intake. He sais that the only differences are on the "K" engine, the plumbing for the turbo runs under the intake like the newer WRXs and the "G" has a 90 degree fittin on the turbo so the plumbing stays behind the intake. Here's the post... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68845 I'll double check if this is correct but the TD04 and plumbing setup I have on my RX will work because I have the plumbing going into the inlet of the turbo behind the intake like on the older VFxx turbos.

sweet! Thanks Corky for clearing that up for me:clap:

well I have the turbo situation figured out. I have a TD04 which I know doesn't have the 90 degree inlet BUT I have piping from my RX (when I had the TD04 on the EA82T) that would make it work. Pictured here Would that still work? I'm pretty sure that the TD04 has the same exhaust inlet as the stock turbo for that engine (VF11 or something like that?). If it does, then I'm also planning on using the 3" bellmouth downpipe I have for the TD04 as well:brow:

I was wondering guys/gals if an intake from an EJ20G would work on an EJ20K engine? I've heard that it won't as far as the bolt holes being different but the person wasn't 100% sure on it. I'm planning on dropping an EJ20K into my '87 EA82 coupe this spring and have sourced the engine a couple hours from me. Guy says that he has the intake from the "G" engine since the intake from the "K" engine is no longer there. Does it depend on the years of the engines?