Caboobaroo

There is a reason why I do not own a turbo Subaru. Being a professional Subaru mechanic and our shops "turbo expert", I'd rather have my 3.0 over a 2.5 turbo any day. Though I have been seeing a lot more of the newer EZ30s with AVCS having head gasket and cracked head issues. Currently tearing down one from a 2006 TriBeCa that has a cylinder 3 and 4 misfire and coolant that has gone missing. I dropped the exhaust off of it this morning and found coolant coming from #3 cylinder in the exhaust port.

So heres the run down. When the oil doesn't get changed regularly enough, it eventually plugs the screen filter inside the banjo bolt for the oil feed to the turbo and starves it. It will damage the turbo shaft and the metal bits that come off of it get dumped into the back of the passenger side head. It then gets cycled down to the oil pan where it gets picked back up and run through the engine. If the car was driven with a failing turbo, it can potentially send all the metal through the engine and takes the bearings out. I've done countless turbos and engines in the 2005-2008 Legacys, Outbacks and Foresters. I have a whole barrel filled with junk turbos. Also, Subaru has an engine oil flush they recommend to use before turbo replacement.

I'm a member over on this board because I'm in the process of getting a MS2 3.0 working on my XT6. Should have the information you need. Good luck! http://www.msextra.com/forums/index.php

I did new brushes on mine at 150k with the same symptoms. Would randomly stop working, usually when it was below freezing. Took me just over an hour to replace the brushes. Wasn't hard to do but I recommend a good bungee cord to help strap it up while you work.

I found out that we have the special tool for doing the timeserts into the block. Looks like I will be doing some head studs sooner then I anticipated! Also found my dad's Dremel when my wife and I were visiting over the holidays so time to get some head porting done! Oh and thanks for posting up the link to the old rally book. I've been wanting that for quite a few years now, just totally spaced going over to ausubaru.

That $2k mark is ten times what I paid for my XT6.... Awesome set of heads though!

The electrical coils are actually the blower motor resistors. It's been awhile since I've played with an EA81 though so besides the junkyard, I don't know where else to get the parts you seek.

I agree with it needing the oxygen sensor. The P2097 is a post catalyst fuel trim too rich but that doesn't mean it's the rear oxygen sensor issue. I would start with replacing the front air/fuel sensor (front oxygen sensor) first, clear the memory and see what comes back. I also know that there was a dealer campaign on some Subarus of that era that needed an ECU reflash for the P2097 as well but it's always good to start with the air/fuel sensor.

You only need to upgrade if you're engine is pulling in more air then it used to. Such as having an engine with higher compression, larger cams, turbo, etc. On a stock engine with basic bolt on mods, stick with a stock one. It's also a common issue for those MAF sensors to take a crap and the new aftermarket versions are worthless. Best bet would be to source up a used one. I just recently got 4 @ $30 each from a local wrecker. It's the same MAF from '95-98/9 with the exception of the '99 2.5 SOHC engines that came in the 2.5RS and Forester.

You should really check the fuel pressure before going any further. The pump will kick on for a few seconds and go back off if the key is on but the engine isn't running. Plugging the green D-check connectors together under the steering column will cycle the fuel pump as well. A weak fuel pump will still pump, it won't have enough pressure to actually run the engine though. So verifying pressure at the fuel filter under the hood is the best thing to do. Anything below 30psi points to a weak pump.

Is this the one on top of the snout of the rear diff? I bought one from the dealer last year and there were a couple left in the country but they were over $100. Super Pro makes a polyurethane replacement but like it was said, some polyurethane window weld will work if injected into the slots on the old bushing.

Granted, it might put me in the poor house next year but I'm probably sending RAM a set of ER27 heads to have them do a full meal deal to them. With the higher compression and the big Delta cams, I think I might need it.

The "additive" is nothing more then a coolant stop leak, just been renamed to a "conditioner". The 2000 to 2004s don't usually leak until 150k to the point of needing to have the head gaskets replaced. The 2005-2009s seem to leak sooner in their life, usually 50k-100k. I only use Six Star head gaskets for this era of Subaru (all 2000-2009 2.5 NA cars), which are a multi layer steel and much better quality then the Fel-Pro Permatorques for not much more money. I've seen the Six Stars go for 200k without issues whereas I've replaced more Permatorques and OEM single layer head gaskets then I care to remember. Be due diligent about oil changes and scheduled maintenance services, it'll be the only way to get the most mileage out of them.

2012 was the first year of the FB in the Impreza. Since these are timing chain engines, it could be coming from a couple different places but with that kind of mileage, my guess would be either a bad drain plug gasket or filter install. I have yet to see them leak oil. I have seen them consume oil but not leak it. Pictures would be best to show the underside of the engine.

ABS codes can only be read using the ground pin method in the ABS diagnostic connector. There shouldn't be a code for normal system, just what codes are currently in the system. They do have an issue with the ABS motor relays sticking among some other issues which can happen in the scenario that you describe. Only way to know is to know what the code is.

Happen to still have an extra room? I am going to try and convince Carrie we should come up for this

Yes

I will bite. My 1989 Subaru XT6. Bought from the original owners and has been to multiple West Coast Subaru Shows where it has taken best XT a few years in a row. Far from stock and more fun to drive then a WRX or STi.

Check out Foreign Engines in Lynnwood, Washington. I've gotten a couple EJ dual ranges from them in the past but expect to pay over $1,000 for one plus shipping...

I wish Sweet82 was still on here (I think his name was Glen). He lives in Salt Lake City too and when I moved to Wyoming, I stopped by his place to check out the buggy. We went through the neighborhood in it and showed off a bit by climbing some stairs and a retaining wall. It was a nice buggy. From what I can remember, he got the plans from a place in Australia called Rhino buggies or something of that nature. Was just a stock EA81 drivetrain from a '82 4wd hatch he had bought new and finally rusted out.

I have a nice set of Spec B Bilsteins and Tein springs that would go nicely on you our new addition ;-)

Hold the phone... There should be conical washers under the top hat bearing plates, on top of the spring perch. If these are missing or installed upside down, it will cause binding in the struts. I've dealt with this quite a bit since I do alignments like the old timers, just with the ease of computerized equipment. Best way to check for binding, jack the front end up, kick the key into the unlocked portion of the ignition and move the front wheels back and forth. Sometimes it's also followed with an audible pop.

Not from oil starvation. The turbo fails due to a plugged filter inside the banjo bolt on the oil feed line to the turbo. It then dumps all the metal shavings into the bottom of the passenger side head which then goes into the oil pan. Once it's circulated through the system, the metal shaving eat up the rod and main bearings fairly quickly. I've also seen it score the crap out of the cams and cam journals before it starts to knock. Be prepared to spend $1200 on a stock turbo and another $4k+ for a new engine.

Even with the 2 piece driveline, I couldn't run the cable above it very well. I ended up putting both cables through one hole which has worked but I need to go back in and run them out above the subframe.

Those are Fel-Pro Permatorques. I cringe every time I see them in an engine because I've replaced those almost as frequent as the OEM single layer gaskets. I currently have a car in my bay which had Permatorques installed and it blew the gasket and burnt part of the compression ring out. Was puffing from the radiator like a steam train while it was running.