Caboobaroo

most of the gen 1 cars I've seen usually have the AC compressor outside of the alternator instead of inboard like this one is. Seems to look ok to me.

you know I'm up for it Bill. I can also help pay for some food and drinks if need be:banana:

I'm getting close to test fitting an EA81 into my '78 Brat. I'll let you know if the steering rack has to be swapped or if its doable with a stock rack.

mine was directly bolted to the stock roof rack rails on the wagon. It took a couple screws to get the rails off but nothing too difficult. Now I just need to measure, mark, and make a couple holes in my roof so then I can paint it:banana:

I scored a free bike rack that is in nice condition minus it needing to be cleaned up a bit. I got it off of an '85 4wd wagon that came into the parts stash a few days ago. Took it off last night, just gotta go back to get the rails so I can mount it onto my RX. I've been looking for one for awhile so I'll be able to take my mountain bike up to the mountains to go use it. Granted, I still gotta get it on the road. I'll get some pics when I get it mounted finally. Probably this weeked:D

without the center diff locked, there will always be moe power going to the front wheels then the rear wheels. There's more mechanical stuff that power HAS to go through to get to the rear wheels so without it locked, there will be more power going to the front wheels. Also, the '85 and '86 RX's had a PART time 4wd tranny. Totally different then the Full Time 4wd tranny. Its the same as a regular d/r tranny BUT it has a 3.70 front diff and the low range isn't as low as the NA d/r tranny

nope, the full time trannys are always in a 4wd mode, granted more power goes to the front wheels then the rear wheels when the diff lock is not on. When switched on, it locks its 50/50 like you said.

If its an '86, then yes, it will have hydraulic lifters in it if I'm not mistaken.

but be forewarned, they're a pain in the butt to try and find. I had both of them blow out on my first Subaru ('83 hatchback) and it had sat for 8 years in a field with water in the crankcase. She ran when I was done with her;)

yup, I have a write up in the USRM if its still there. I can't remember now. Ahhh here it is... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50403

I got a pic for you guys that I found over on Skip's website. Check it out... http://community.webshots.com/photo/332702224/2514642550067339125owyehZ

hahaha.... I was waiting for a thread like this to pop up. I got close to $4,000 into my RX right now and its not even done yet. Here's a basic look down on the price list I have '89 RX turbo with a bad motor and bad everything but tranny - $150 stage 2 clutch - $200 gen 2 turbo heads - $75 TD04 turbo - $120 AEM cold air intake - $60 extra plumbing for CAI, turbo and IC - $150 WRX TMIC and hoodscoop - $115 GReddy Profec 2 B-spec EBC and matching turbo timer - $213 full 5-lug conversion for front and rear - $775:eek: Megan Racing downpipe - $150 spyder intake plus other portions of spyder intakes - $190 brand new OEM clutch cable - $20 center console for auto -> manual conversion - $20 steering wheel, rear hatch, one side window, gas tank, misc parts - $80 shipping to trade for cams - $100 Autometer gauges - $200 3 gauge A-pillar pod - $21 fluids and filters - $40 gasket set from the dealer - $200 Mics parts for trying out new things - $200 Total - $3,079 I know I'm forgetting a whole mess of stuff that I've gotten for it but you get the idea. I stripped it down to almost nothing and rebuilt it with a few minor upgrades. Still got a couple thousand left to spend to get it to where I want it and where it will probably be reliable.

ahhhh yes, reverse brunouts were always a favorite thing. I forgot I had it in reverse and I went to do a burnout and started roasting the tires in reverse. Car was movin a bit so I let down on the ebrake, crank it hard to the right and swung the nose of it around, slammed it into first and away I went! But yeah, I don't think I could ever cut my grille up because its getting harder and harder to find a cherry quad headlight grille for a gen 1. I just happen to have two;)

Sweet, looks like I got another project to do next weekend.

nope no rubbing issues whatsoever. Plus, the fact that I lowered it like that made the rear diff like to posi whenever I did awesome burnouts. Can't wait to do it again:D As far as those size tires, I dunno if you'll have any rubbing issues with them. I'm planning on staying a more stock size with mine cause I want to put some EA81T 4-spoke alloys under it with a nice black paint job.

I hear ya on that one. I too have both sensors in my room chillin next to the spare upper intake portion I have for a spyder. Anyways, I don't have a scanned copy of the wiring diagram for the spyder but I do have the FSM, part 6, which shows it. kingbobdole and blownbimer are gonna be coming up next weekend to help me figure this out so hopefully, I can help you out as well:D

Quick question, will a govenor from an '91? Loyale with a 3AT fit into the 3AT on an '84 turbo coupe? I believe that is what is wrong with LUVMYBRAT's daughter's turbo coupe. See this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55672

Since your car isn't turbo'd, it won't help at all really. The reason why people got these were for their EA82 turbo engines since the turbo has so much heat that gets transfered to the engine oil, thus making the heads and the block run at a hotter temperature.

Yup, I also removed the bumpstops that are located in the top of the piece that sits on top of the spring. Its about a 1 1/4" thick and with removing those and removing my rear bumpstops, I was tucking stock 185/70R13's!

Hmmm, I might have to do that..... Sounds good, it'll be a few days before I can com up with some funds to get parts/ship parts but I might just have to do that...

From what Tex has told me, since we're both running basically the same setup, is that the 4-wire TPS should be ok. Granted, I have yet to pull any codes from my RX but it seems to run ok with the 4-wire TPS. He did point out a good observation though. There is a major difference between the 3-wire and the 4-wire. One rotates clockwise where the other rotates counter clockwise. I dunno which is which but that is the main difference I have seen physically between the two. The other thing, the 4-wire TPS has that 4th wire for a idle control that the XTs came with and the regular EA82s did not. I'm going to be figuring this problem out next weekend and can bring you back some knowledge of my discoveries.

Your best bet is to go buy a helicoil kit from a local autoparts store. Drill and helicoil it and it'll work fine. Since there's like 10 helicoil inserts in a package and since that bolt is a common size on Subaru engines, you'll be using it for a lot more then just the thermostat housing. I got a set and have used it on a lot of intake manifold bolts that go into the head. Everything from an EA82T to a gen 1 EA71. Worth the money IMO.

If you have one of those 90 degree screwdrivers from Craftsman, they work pretty well. I actually just removed the one from my old intake. If you need one, just gimme a holler! I got like 4 of them:D

you wanna talk about breaking the bank as far as 5-lug conversion? I have close to $800 into my 5-lug but I had all the rear XT6 stuff shipped to me along with the swaybars and the tie rod ends. I feel your pain buddy, our yards which are local have broken me on parts that I've needed. Now I just go down to Denver which is worth the drive cause I also get to see a few friends as well:D

I need to know if there is any place that I can get a set of new door seals for my Brat. Also, will an EA81 steering wheel fit onto the steering column of my Brat? Lastly, if I put an EA81 solid lifter with a s/r 4-speed EA81 tranny into my car, will the original drivehaft still work for it or will I have to modify it? Thanks guys, can't wait to get it back!