Caboobaroo
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Everything posted by Caboobaroo
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Check out C&D machining in Kirkland. They do all the machine work for the Dirtfish rally cars and have done great work for me in the past. They might not be cheap though.... -
They've never had an oil level sensor until 2010 I believe. Your 2008 has three PRESSURE sensors, one for each head (they give the ECU feedback when it comes to controlling the variable valve timing) and the main sensor on top of the block directly under the alternator. If you're frying engines, maybe you should be checking the oil more often. Also, keep your oil change interval to 3k miles as the oil will break down and cause the rings to wear after that mileage. Once the rings wear, it will start consuming oil and even if you don't have a leak, the oil will disappear.
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Oh man. Rob is the closest on this. Peek under the dash by the steering column. There should be a box with two plugs going into it, a black one and a white one. The side should say something along the lines of DRL system or Day Time Running Light Control, I can't quite remember. One of the two connectors needs to be unplugged for them to be disabled. Did this on my '04 Outback
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I plan on doing a manual swap into my '04 and so I've been doing research for it. Everything bolts in but you have the cluster to deal with (PRND321), and you have to make the ECU happy by tricking the TCU. ECU is looking for 3 things from the TCU, startup in neutral/park, needs to see when the transmission is in gear (it needs to think it's being held in "1"), and a pulse signal from the torque converter. I know people have done the 3.0 swap into other cars with a manual and have had decent results but there always seems to be an issue with the CEL and coming down to an idle. You could get an EZ30DR with a manual transmission overseas but nothing here was offered with that setup.
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The setup is the same as my XT6. If you want to come by and take a comparison look, I'm just a few minutes from you.
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EA81 axles will also work but are about 1/2" longer from what I can remember.
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2000 to 2009 Legacy and Outback use a similar 2 pieces rear brake line setup like our cars do. You can get a set of stainless lines for a 2005 LGT and they should work with the setup you're wanting to run. I have the 2004 WRX rear brakes with 2000 Outback flex lines to go from the hard line mounted on the trailing arm to the caliper. No modifications required.
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Sounds like you should sell it and buy a Ford..... And no, the WRX STi is not "amazing". They have their issues like every other car, including your G37S which is wait, a performance car whereas the Legacy is not! As far as I see, you're comparing apples to oranges. And I guarantee that you will have to empty your pockets when it comes time too service the MB.
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All great suggestions and good areas to start! Now if you have the issue continue, check the steering rack bushings. Have seen issues once they've become oil saturated and have also seen them stretch from age. I've been dealing with a similar issue where my '04 Outback wanders real bad on roads with ruts or uneven pavement even after replacing multiple front end parts (bearings, hubs, ball joints, tie rods, intermediate shaft, transverse bushings), the problem continued. Finally had my coworker give the front wheel a good side to side shake and noticed the rack was moving a bit. I have a set of Whiteline polyurethane rack bushings on order currently and hopefully will get them in before the holiday!
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You are correct on both. The three hoses are the fuel lines and the others are for the Evap system. No need to mess with the Evap lines, just check the fuel line clamps for tightness. Every car I do a new fuel filter on, I usually try and hit as many of those clamps as I can to help prevent it from happening.
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Yup, the metal cup is actually the outside edge of the sensor and it has corroded to the aluminum housing.
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Since it's been cold, the rubber lines that connect the metal fuel lines under the intake manifold, have shrunk down letting fuel/vapor to escape. I had 8 cars in the shop in two days with the same complaint. Subaru has a TSB for the first gen WRXs to get a fuel line update but nothing for the other cars from what I can remember. Check the clamps to make sure they're tight but if the issue continues, you will want to replace hoses.
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It depends on what the CEL is on for. If it's kicking the cruise off, it's because the computer thinks the issue is bad enough to not be able to set it. Looks like you can try a drain and fill on the transmission with a new filter (located in the wheel well in reforming of the driver front tire behind the fog light) but if that doesn't work, probably will need a new valve body or a transmission. Found this while searching the forums. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p1844i-118383.html
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4.11 first gen EJ 5-speed internals with the center diff, center diff housing and tail shaft housing. Also a 4.11 open rear diff.
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The driveshaft from the transmission to the rear diff is the same for all '85-89 4wd cars with a two piece driveshaft (and Loyales from '90-'94). The higher end turbo cars and the XT6 had a rubber dampener built into the front portion of the driveshaft but the ones without don't seem to have an issue from what I recall. Now if you're referring to the axle shaft, also known as a half shaft for an axle, then those are XT6 specific for the fronts. The rears are interchangeable with all 4wd Subarus from '85-89 and Loyales from '90-'94. Hope this helps.
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Nah, mine won't go anywhere near the sand either, it stays on the pavement. I did a coast cruise a few years ago with a bunch of people off of NASIOC but I rode along with a friend.
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I would really like to make it a bolt in part rather then modifying the stock piece. My original plan was to build a metal tube frame that bolted in place of the factory aluminum piece. I still think I might do that if I don't think the aluminum piece will work out. Was able to get the bell housing off of one of my ERs yesterday afternoon so during the holiday weekend, I will be getting precise measurements of it.
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Just the mounting plate is different when it comes to the square block style. I believe the round ones don't have an orientation as well but I haven't messed with those for awhile.
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This is a great idea, especially for the older H6 engines as they run a similar multi rib belt. I've actually been looking at doing a retrofit in my XT6 with one from a 3.0 but more amps the better!
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I should get a picture of the ER27 head gasket as I want to put MLS gaskets in mine....
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Ivan, I plan to take the stock ER engine bell housing, cut off twice the amount of the thickness of the EJ/EA adapter and weld the adapter plate to the stock bell housing. I figure since the bottom studs are the same, I can use those to align the adapter plate square. Hopefully I can find some time to get the bell housing off of my extra engine and start modifying it.
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Just to make it clear, NOT an EJ to EA adapter. I've been contemplating making an adapter that will bolt to the back of the ER27 that I'm building that will let me run an EJ transmission and an EJ clutch. I sourced up a twin disc OS Giken clutch that was in a first gen Legacy for a steal. I plan to redrill the flywheel to match up to the ER crank. I know I can put the EJ transmission internals into my XT6 case but I really need a stronger clutch... After doing the math, I've found that I really need to make the OEM bell housing on the engine roughly 0.56" shallower to make the transmission bolt closer to the engine, same thickness as adding an EJ adapter plate between an EJ engine and EA transmission. I'm thinking I might try and take an adapter plate and tig weld it to the OEM bell housing after I get it cut down. Thoughts? Opinions?
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I could make an appearance depending on the weekend seeing as I'm now just up the road in Oregon City.
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Prep the block surfaces for the head gaskets with a sanding block and some 220/400 wet sand paper. Plus everything that Ivan said with addition to the coolant crossover o-rings. If the small hoses for the throttle body haven't been replaced, might be a good idea to get a hose package from the dealer which will replace the radiator hoses, water pump bypass hose, heater hoses and throttle body bypass hoses. If the radiator cap is aftermarket or has a swollen bottom seal, replace it with an OEM cap.
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It's a head gasket. I bet money on it... I'm also in the same boat as Ivan. I'm redoing other peoples head gasket jobs that we're not done properly, both on the dual cam and single cam engines. "If you give a crappy mechanic good parts, it won't last. If you give a good mechanic crappy parts, it won't last. If you give a good mechanic quality parts, it'll last." "Just because you think you can doesn't mean you should."
