Caboobaroo

well from what I understand, besides trying to keep the coolant temp down, you also need to keep the oil temp down which will also help keep the temp of the engine down overall. I got a nice sized oil cooler but I don't have the sandwich for it yet. Hopefully, I can get one and start doing some testing on the engine I currently have. Since my RX finally runs now:banana:

derr derr derr....I feel stupid. Ok anyways, I've had both a NA spyder harness and a turbo nonspyder harness apart and they seem to be the same but the spyder harness didn't have the knock sensor that I needed so I had to wire it in. Other then that and the fact that the TPS is a 4 pin connector on the spyder vs. a 3 pin on the nonspyder, and that the sensors are in different locations, they seem to be the same overall so I don't see why the JDM harness would be really any different. My spyder harness plugged right into my '89 RX harness and the only thing I had to do was pull the pins out of the old harness connector for the knock sensor, figure out which holes they went in on the spyder harness and the plugged them in. I hope it works though:rolleyes:

plus, there's a few board members here in Laramie/Cheyenne that have lots of parts for these cars like LUVMYBRAT. He only has 2 gen 2 Brats, 2 gen 2 turbo coupes and 2 gen 2 4wd wagons too. Then there's me which I only have a '89 RX and a '78 Brat now but my collection has been a lot more extensive. $500 wouldn't be bad but you need to post pics of it before people can decide if its worth the money or not. If you think its worth the money, the by all means, get it. My RX I bought from a junkyard because I thought it was worth the money. Now after a year and 6 months of having it and dumping $5000 into it, might not have really been worth it but hey, it'll be fun when she's done!

As far as rewiring the intake for the turbo, all I did was pull apart my old nonspyder harness and took out the knock sensor, and figured out which blank spots on the spyder harness were for the knock sensor and plugged them into it.

bump bump bump. I searched some peoples pic galleries and found some of the info I needed but nothing dealing with the charcoal canister. For those of you who have gotten rid of your charcoal canister, what did you do?

looks like something with your timing might be off due to the high temp of the heat. I've never seen an aluminum head melt unless it was from bad timing or some tuning issue.

well the 4 lo in the 4-speeds give you a lot more bottom end, plus it gives a closer ratio transmission. 3k rpms in 4-lo = 30 mph which is about the highest speed on a rallycross course if I'm not mistaken.

not to mention of the vacuum lines you have to run to make it work, plus, if something happens to one of the lines, you wn't have the 4wd when you need it most. I would go with a NA 3.90 d/r 5-speed and a 3.90 rear diff.

I'm really needing a vacuum diagram for my '89 RX so I can get all of the vacuum lines hooked up that control the stock boost controller, boost light, etc on that side of the engine. Also, I need a diagram or a pic of one of the lines on the charcoal canister and where it goes. Its the one with the round valve looking deal in it that doesn't go to the intake. Thanks a bunch guys!

aftermarket cheapo from like Autozone in my '89 RX

As far as the fuel filler neck, I dunno what it came off of. I do know it came out of a scrap bin behind the local GM dealership;) Jerry, as far as my turbo and exhaust, no BFHs were involved. Granted, I had to use it on the firewall to get the intercooler to fit right:headbang:

Since you said your Loyale as an auto, its probably going to be a 3AT which are garbage. The 4EATs came in the GL-10 wagons in '89, some '89 RX's like mine had, and a few other cars. As far as putting a 4EAT from a Legacy or a Impreza, too much to do to even worry about it. If you can find a 4EAT, it will bolt in HOWEVER, it is an electronic transmission instead of the mechanical like the 3AT so you'll need the tranmission wiring harness and the transmission computer as well.

If you would like some pics on rebuilding the stock carb, I have a factory service manual that I bought for my '78 Brat. I also had a '79 4wd wagon as well. I'ev gotten to know these cars like the back of my hand so feel free to send me a PM if you need any help as well.

Bill, a headjob on a Subaru is maybe an afternoon affair. The only thing that could hold you back to make it longer then an afternoon is if you run into a problem with getting parts for it.

Its been so nice out the past few days. It sucked cause I had to work until today which is one of my days off. So I decided to quit being lazy and gettin my WRX intercooler installed where its not so jerry rigged in there. LUVMYBRAT was so kind and finding me a filler neck from a gas tank which had the exact reducer I needed on it to go from the 2 7/8" outlet on the intercooler to the 2 3/8" inlet on the throttle body. I cut off the piece I needed and put it on. While I was getting the plumbing fitted and cut, I noticed that I'm going to have to cut my firewall a bit for more clearance for the pipe coming form my TD04 into the back of the intercooler. So thats where I'm at now, then it'll be timing, hooking up some misc vacuum lines and getting her tuned in a little bit better (she seemed like she was only runnin on 2 cylinders, bad timing!). Hopefully this afternoon/evening I can see about taking her around the block under her own power! I haven't done that in this car since I tore into her back in December of 2004.

yeah you gotta share the wealth with the rest of the cars Bill. Cause the wagon and the t-coupe might feel not worthy enough for any goodies if they ALL go into the cherry Brat;) Besides, we can do the EJ swap here:D

basically the hardest part about doing a rebuild is getting the block to split. You need a "special" tool for pulling the wristpins out of the block so it'll slide apart. Thats why I didn't break my EA82T totally down since I couldn't get the wristpins out.

EJ22 + turbo 5-speed + LSD into the Brat lay the turbo Brat to rest and drop the drivetrain into the new turbo coupe rebuilt EA81 from CCR into the wagon and lift it Whatcha think? Oh and that reducer worked!

any old school carbon fiber kits?

yeah those were my plans as well along with the possibility of the copper headgaskets too. 9.0:1 with a big ole fatty turbo is gonna make her fun!

yeah but Brad, my RX is finally running with the stock engine in it.... Why didn't yours ever run with the turbo engine you put in it? Hmmmm????? Just kidding. Congrats. Now this just means I'm gonna have to start on my new EA82T here before too long but I'll probably have the one in the RX right now in there for the show. Oh and I got the manual BTW yesterday.

I believe those were the rally spec that might have been using the 4x140mm. The STi has been using the 5x114.3mm hubs since 2005 I believe, not '06

but did you have the block and heads O-ringed? Might be worth a try.... I'll have to maybe do that this summer when I start on my new engine.

I have also done this complete swap in my '89 RX but I went from an 4EAT auto to a RX tranny. Like it was said before, use the whole driveshaft, not just the front half of it. It will make your life so much easier. I got mine from a parts wagon that was a NA d/r 5-speed. Bolted right in.

ahhh I won't forget seeing the famous Trashwagon #5 when it came to WCSS5. I even still have a pic that I took at the meet on my computer.