Caboobaroo

Those green connectors are the diagnostic connectors that when connected, they display the codes the ECM contains. Here's a sit that might help decypher what codes you might have. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

well I'll have to take a look at the cherry Brat to see what it looks like. You can use the square tubing as a spacer and put longer bolts in which I don't see it being a problem unless it rubs on the tire. Guess it all depends on how long the tubing is. Maybe those coilovers will end up in the cherry Brat;)

Bill, lifted wagons are the best! To help answer your question about the tubing, it depends on how the bracket is going to be made. I know in BYB lifts, that bracket is made from flat stock and welded in an upside down "U" and has two holes in the base of the "U" that bolt into the stock location on the body and it has two more holes at the top tips of the "U" for the new shock to bolt into. It also has a curve to the bracket that matches the curve on the body inside the fender well area. Lets get together next week on Wednseday and we can discuss it more if you'd like.

I noticed today that the Brat was smokin a little after I started it up and let it warm up a bit. Seems usual since its below 32* here. Started driving home from work after I let it warm up a bit and I swear I smelled antifreeze. First thing that pops into my head..... headgaskets.... I get home, pop the hood and take off the radiator cap with it running. Antifreeze is low. Another sign that its a possible headgasket. I take a big whiff of inside the radiator and what does it smell like? Exhaust fumes...... So since I'm going to be doing an oilpan gasket on it, might as well do headgaskets right? The only bad part of this? There's 2" of snow on the gorund outside and its colder in my garage then it is outside. So I guess it might have to wait for a little while:-\

yes, welding is your friend when it comes to exhaust. I welded mine all up on my '78 and had no leaks! Also, get a stock EA82 muffler and cut the metal hangers off of it and weld them onto key locations on your exhaust so it can hang from the stock location. Just make sure you hang it before you go welding it all up.

I got one from an "86 turbosedan... I can check the connector on it this weekend if it might be similar to what you have... I dunno though

If you follow th top radiator hose, it'll go into a fitting on the engine (actually the intake) and there are two bolts that hold this fitting onto the engine. Those two bolts hold on the thermostat housing and inside is the thermostat.

yeah and it makes it easier to pull them out when you pull out the engine and then the tranny. doing the whole unbolting the front crossmember takes more time and effort then you really want to do.

If you can get a more close up pic of the waterpump, we can ID it better.

more toward the back since it will give you a more throaty piped out sound because it would acted more as a muffler when its installed up front. My '78 sounded AWESOME! So awesome that some crackhead stole my muffler in the middle of the night in front of my apartment complex...

the intake ports between a EA82 and a EJ22 are waaaaay different. So different to the point where you'd either have to make a Frankintake or just leave the EJ22 intake on it. You'd be a lot better off with the EJ22 intake since it flows a lot better then the EA82 intakes. Also, there is no place to put a disty on the EJ22 engines IIRC. No EA style trannys will directly bolt up to a EJxx engine. Bellhousings are two totally different beasts. There are a few people here on the board that make the adapters to do that, just do a search for it.

you might want to get a can of Seafoam from a local autoparts store and pour some of that down the carb. Basically, you want to pull off the air filter housing and rev the engine a bit and start pouring slowly. You're engine will start to bog down but make sure it doesn't by keeping it revved up. It'll clea out any gunk thats trapped in the barrels. I'd recommend pouring 1/3 or the can down the carb, and the rest in the gas tank to help clean out the jets and whatnot inside the carb.

sounds like a bad alternator. This same thing happened to me when I hooked all 4 lights up on the Brat I'm driving plus the stereo which has 2 10" subs behind the seats. You might wanna put an EA82 alternator on since it has a little more amps runnin from it or search for the GM alternator swap

well I was meaning my original nonspyder intake. COuld it have been made to work with my '89? I know they didn't start with the spyder intakes until '87.5

Also to add, you can use the same parts from any part time dual range tranny as far as linkage and driveshaft. Actually, you can use a driveshaft from any EA82 4wd manual vehicle and it'll bolt in. I have a driveshaft out of a parts wagon that was carbed and a dual range 5-speed. Crossmembers are the same and so are the speedo gears and the clutch cables. Just make sure you get a clutch cable from a 4wd car since IIRC, they're longer and have something else at the pedal side for more strength. Only differences externally between a part time and a full time are nothing!

YEAH! But I'm not in Washington.......:-\

For the most part, the FT tranys are similar to the EJ AWD trannys in the fact they both have a center diff in them. The only reason why they resemble a part time dual range is the fact of the dual range in the Full time trannys themselves are built on the same design.

Good luck. You'll have some major clearance issues with the driver side turbo and the master cylinder.

I do know that Hondasucks figured out why these digidashes go out like they do. Might want to send him a PM and see what he can do if anything.

You best bet for a bolt in upgrade is to find a Viscous LSD from a turbo Legacy sedan which will be the right gear ratio for your car. If you plan on using a stock LSD from an '80s subaru, you'll have to convert it like Jibs said.

Well now that it runs (barely), its time to start working on the many reason why is barely runs. First off, in my hard researching of the nonturbo spyder intake I have, I have found out that the nonturbo'd spyders came wihtout a knock sensor. So today I decided to pull apart my stock nonspyder intake wiring harness I have to see which pin I have to pull to make the knock sensor work with my new intake. Turns out, there are two wires that go into one for the knock sensor right next to the large white intake harness connector. It looks like someone might have rigged it to work but it also looks like it could have been done at the factory but in a real $hitty way. One wire is white, which from my electrical diagrams, is the correct wire for the knock sensor and the other one is black and been spliced into the white wire. From what I have heard, the '86s came with a two wire knock sensor. Could this intake have been from an '86 and made to work with my '89? Next, I removed a part from my intake that had a burden on my intake outlet on my TD04. It has 2 wires going to it and has two larger hoses going to it as well. One hose appears to be coming from the PCV valve on the side of the intake. This part is NOT on my nonspyder intake! It is about 3/4" think, round and standing straight up, aboutn2" in diameter, and the hoses come into the top on either side. The electrical connector is right below one of the hose inlets. Also has a nut that has a tamper resistant mold over it. Anyone know what it might be? I don't have a digital camera right now so I can't snap a pic of it.

ok so thats where it was at. It looked like a parking lot over by Avery Park....

sounds like my '78 Brat did when I had my custom exhaust but it wasn't dual. Go gen 1's with custom exhaust. They rock!!!

Keith, is this job opp still open? I'm sending you a PM...

looks like it parks over by Avery Park in tha pic near the university