Caboobaroo

I have seen issues with many cheap knock sensors and usually it's not the sensor itself if it has a removable pigtail. Just a heads up if you have a knock sensor code come back after a few weeks...

Has the timing belt been changed?

Subaru stopped putting underhood filters on cars in 2003. Only one is in tank and is nonserviceable.

So it's been a few months since I posted in here last. Been busy but not with the car per say. My wife and I moved from Seattle, WA to Portland, OR in July, got married on the first of September and finding new jobs. Now that we've gotten fairly settled, time for me to post up the next big step for Scarlett. Done a lot of maintenance type work on it including another good used alternator, new power steering brushes, oil change, rear diff swap, new OEM rear diff snout bushing, polyurethane mustache bar bushings, and new pads with turned rotors. For my birthday in October, I went to another XT member's house and picked up all the parts he had left from his XT6s. Ended up getting two ER27s, two XT6 5-speeds, two radiators, two sets of tail lights, two sets of fog lights and so on. The engines are the biggest thing that I was after, plus a transmission since mine is making noise. The engine/transmission assembly in the foreground is a stock shortblock, fresh heads and Delta 272 torque cams. The engine in the background is a built shortblock (bored, Wiseco pistons, new bearings and such) with fresh stock heads and stock cams. The built shortblock has a blown head gasket into #1 so I need to get it torn down and assess the issue but I have a new set of OEM head gaskets sitting on my toolbox. Now if I only had time... Just keep an eye out for my slow updates!

I believe it was within a couple weeks but exactly, I can't quite remember. It started with a shuddering at idle while sitting still, car had sub 100k miles. Fluid was a bit burnt and the customer asked if we could change it so I flushed it and the issue went away. Within two weeks it was back at the shop with a pump that failed internally and was full of metal shavings when I removed it. Just make sure that if it does put metal into the system that it is flushed before the new pump is installed. Should be a matter of turning the wheels back and forth with the lines disconnected from the pump. It makes it easier with the wheels off the ground when doing it. I usually use a cut down oil quart container to catch the fluid coming out. I believe the only place to get a new replacement pump is the dealer, or find a used one. If you're patient, it can be an afternoon job to replace it, for me, about an hour.

IIRC, the way the wiring is done in the 2007 3.0 is a CAN system which can be a bear to wire up properly. I've seen a few guys use the same engine but use a Link G4 or another standalone fuel management system (like Megasquirt) to run it. You might want to get your hands on a wiring schematic for it if you haven't already.

All of the 3.0 oil leaks have been mentioned that I've seen, valve covers, oil cooler o-ring and chain case. It's much easier to replace the valve covers and the o-ring then to reseal the front case cover in the car. My wife's sedan has a small external coolant leak from the head gasket on the passenger side but no oil leaks anywhere. Hoping to get it to 150k before I yard the engine out and go through it as it does have a bit of a chain tensioner noise.

Joe, it isn't uncommon for the power steering pump to fail internally on this year of STi. I had a customer with a similar issue and just days after I replaced the fluid and it went away, he came back with a pump that had munched itself. Just be aware that a new pump from the dealer is upwards of $500

That sounds about right. I'm not a big fan of doing valve cover reseals on 3.0s because they are very tight and usually fairly nasty with grease and oil. Also, I would only run the stock recommendation NGK plugs in it unless you want to change them more frequently.

Yes, the '96 2.5 had a composite head gasket.

I've just recently done a timing belt on an EJ25D that came in for a noise. Turns out it was just starting to loose the ball bearings and when I pulled it off, it fell apart.

What year is the car? Most Subarus, you can bolt most of the 4wd system into but depending on the year will change what parts you'll need and what other modifications the car might need.

If you need another ECU, I found one in my parts when I was moving.

All spider intake engines I've seen have had the standard timing marks on the flywheel, the blocks still have the same hole in the bell housing too. I always verify the timing with the marks on the flywheel over the ones on the balancer.

But the gap is only 1/8" at most. I modified a set of WRX backing plates to bolt onto my XT6. I ended up slotting two of the original holes in the backing plate to accept the different bolt pattern and then drilled a new hole for the rear bolt with nut. I still plan to reinforce the areas around the "new" holes to make them more precise but haven't had any issues since I converted it to the rear ebrake setup.

You need to fix all the little stuff before you worry about run ability. Not having the MAF, the front A/F sensor and a majority of the sensors hooked up, it will run just not very well. Get that stuff taken care of and then worry about how its running. It currently doesn't know how much air is coming in, doesn't know how lean or rich the exhaust is and depending on what isn't hooked up, will cause the enginto run like poop.

I found a small strap, I think from a parking brake cable and bolted it in to hold the end of the linkage. Like Rob said, you'll need to shorten the front half of the driveline 55mm. Easiest way to bolt it to the car is using XT6 5-speed front and rear transmission cross members and the EJ center section. This will only work if you have a late '87 and newer GL only build date will know for sure. I found that my earlier built '87 GL coupe had a smaller transmission tunnel in it. The transmission fit fine however I had no direct bolt in crossmembers. I was in the middle of modifying a 3AT crossmember to bolt to the EJ center section when I came across my newest shell.

So I might be able to get my hands on a couple spare transmissions. There might not be an XT6 transmission so would another EA82 case work for my swap? I gotta get this done, mine is starting to make more noise now that I'm daily driving it...

Might want to swing the endlinks back up into the correct position. The swaybar ends should be above the rear lateral links. Overall though, easy and free mods are the best!

So, does it click when you try to start it? Does it actually spin the engine just doesn't crack off? I just noticed you're in Sweden. Is it a second generation or third generation Outback? Different markets got different models in 2004 which is why I ask. Just for grins, disconnect the black ( - ) cable from the battery for 30 second. Reconnect with the key off. Get in, turn key to "ON" but don't start it. Let the gauges sweep and leave it there for 10 seconds. Probably will hear some relays under the right side of the dash click during this. Then try and start it up!

I see you're fairly new to the board so welcome! Might want to check out the USRM for 5-lug tips, tricks and parts list. Would help out for the answer but there are two different versions. Personally, when I do it again on my race car, I'm going to use the EJ knuckles and struts like I did on my XT6. Steering angles are a lot better then the factory XT6 knuckles.

Shuld have specified, all Subarus with a flat 6 EXCEPT the XT6, had an automatic transmission coupled from the factory available in the US. I have seen the manual 3.0 overseas but nothing that was offered here. I have seen guys do the swap into VWs and an XT6 but I believe there is a bit of a tuning issue when the engine computer waits for a signal from the transmission computer for a shift point. Im not entirely sure how it was handled using a stock ECU but if I were doing the swap myself, I would be running a MegaSquirt 3 box.

With the higher rated clutch, I'm partial with converting to a hydro clutch. If I can make it work, I will try using the cable system first.

Yes, the XT6 control arm bolts are bigger. I hogged out the holes a bit and welded a washer to help push the bushings away from the inside pocket of the crossmember. I would ditch the XT6 knuckles and run a pair from a '90s Legacy or Impreza and then you also gain the front camber adjustment. What do you need to know about steering racks?

You are killing the engine while running it with a flashing CEL. This means you have a cylinder not firing and should be looked into. I would start by checking the spark plugs, spark plug wires and coil pack terminals for arcing or corrosion. If they are good, drop the exhaust header off of the bottom of the heads and look into the exhaust ports for possible dropped valve guides. When one drops, it holds the valve open and the cylinder never compresses the air and fuel mixture.