Caboobaroo

but gen 1 Brats are teh sExY!!!!! Trust me, I got one and she was awesome before I tore into her. Now she's getting completely restored with a few minor mods done;)

nope no difference whatsoever that I have been able to determine.

The differences in a solid lifter engine vs. a hydro lifter engine for you Jerry... cams are different like stated the lifters (duh! *smacks forehead*) pushrods If you can get those items from a hydro lifter engine, you can swap them into a solid lifter block. If you want a good solid lifter block, I got a couple, one has about 100k miles on it;)

so that means get on da ball Will... I've got a spare RX FT tranny and I'm waiting... waiting for a good day to tear it down and put one in;)

looks like its probably rolled over once. It appears to be a DL with the quad headlight option or a GL. If I got an interior pic, I could tell you right off the bat.

with the FT, you'll notice the 4wd linkage has 3 positions where the part time has 4. Full Time d/r 4hi neutral 4low Part time 2hi 4hi neutral 4low You'll notice a major difference...

I can't say I've really had any of those.....:-\

bleh, that carb has many problems if you haven't encountered them already. I had the Carter-Weber on my '83 hatchback and oh man, what a pain! They are good carbs IF you can ever get it to run right. My advice would be to swap it to a Hitachi and be done with it. Besides, you'll get more power with the Hitachi I believe and you can actually get rebuild kits for cheap for them.

usually by the condition of the vehicle is the first clue. General Disorder a million years ago, was parting out a '78 wagon that had only like 75,000 miles on it and you could tell since the interior was pretty much immaculate. Lucky me, I got the rear seat and most of the carpet, plus the rear lap belts too...

chassis type refers to one being a 3-door and one being the wagon/sedan IIRC... I dunno which one is which off the top of my head but that should be the difference. Just for the record, drivetrain wise, there is no difference between the 3-door and the wagon/sedan, just the body.

Go find one for a Legacy or a '93-'01 Impreza and it should fit. Will did another article on how EA82 front diffs and EJxx front diffs are exactly the same right down to the part numbers.

wow so I got done doing the conversion about 2 hours ago but I bled the brakes and wow, what a difference. They needed to be bled before this swap so I didn't mind bleeding them. This this stops on a friggin dime now, I'm very impressed! No more grinding coming from the rear. Now its time to take care of the sloppy shifter syndrome it has. I've read up on what the problem is but I think a welder will do the trick;)

you COULD tow it over to my parents house and dump it off if you'd like....... Yeah sounds like you have a case of air drying electronics. They don't tend to like water very much and are very picky a lot of times. Let it sit for maybe a couple days and you should be good to go. Also, like was said before, check all of your fuses!

You want me to stop by? I might have maximumBRAT with me but I think of myself as one of the gen 1 guru's here on the board.....

I am thinking about getting a set of EA81 carbs that Hondasucks has. They need to be rebuilt but I think he paid $50 bucks for them? Who needs a stock aircleaner? Get some sheetmetal and a welder and you're good to go at making your own. Thats at least what I'd do...

well I got some PB blaster but I do have air tools, mwahahaha. Anyways, I got the whole rear end like I said and I'll jack the car up and swap it all over as it comes off. Good thing is that my sister's boyfriend is going to help me on it.

Well I have everything to do the conversion, actualy the whole rear end, suspension and whatnot from my old part car ('85 GL-10 turbosedan) and I'm going to be doing the rear disc conversion on it. I've read up on it a few times but maybe there's some secrets to it that I don't know. I'm going to be doing this afternoon since I have to bleed the brakes anyways so why not? Seems pretty straight forward.

I found that the Aromor All Quicksilver works pretty well. I've used it on some detailed rims ('95 Chrysler Town and Country alloys) and spoked motorcycle wheels and i cleaned them really well. Just make sure to follow the directions correctly or it could fubar your rims. Also, keep away from automotive paint since it will turn it a different shade if left on it (found out from experience)

well had the guys at work test it today. Battery was good but the alternator was dead as a doornail. No ripple from the diode no nothing. So I went and replaced it with a different one on my lunch (woo, a whole 5 minutes) and she got a little more peppy and the lights went off. Now the voltage gauge is reading 14 volts so all is good...

Bill, pop the hood on the tubro Brat and start comparing.... you'll see major differences like what Brian said. Injectors are part of the head just to the outside of the sparkplugs unlike and EA82 where they're in the intake

should be a 3.90 open diff in the rear...

heh, after getting the cherry Brat back on the road with the original engine back in it, I need one... bad.... worse then Bill needs one lol. I want a Brat again.... Hey Bill, wanna trade the RX for your cherry Brat?

well the volt meter in the car is reading less then 12 volts though. I'm still going to check it with a volt meter but its running and driving just fine. Could it be a dirty connection possibly? IIRC, this alternator on this engine was working fine when I had the engine in a '81 wagon.

well its possible the only other alternator I have is covered in oil and I don't really want to see if it still works. I'll check to see if I have a spare but does it sound like the alternator is gone? I'll be getting some voltage readings here in a few.

Will has enough stuff in the engine compartment of his RX. Dual alternators would push it to the limit!