Caboobaroo

well there have been one or two people who have redrilled their hubs to a 4x100mm pattern but I know one guy is located in Aussy. Why not go the 5-lug route? If you do, then the options for brake upgrades and custom suspension comes into play, making the RX handle like its on rails. In the front of my RX, I currently have '95 Impreza struts (soon to change when I get some extra cash), Impreza hubs, Impreza rotors and calipers, Impreza axles, XT6 control arms, XT6 tie rod ends and XT6 swaybar. In the rear, I have XT6 hubs with rotors, XT6 swaybar and XT6 calipers. I also have a set of coilovers for the front and rear as well but I haven't installed them yet. Compared to redrilling the hubs, this was a walk in the park. Now all I have to do is bleed my brakes and get an alignment. There are so many options once you convert to 5-lug compared to the 4-lug...

so with just the MS, you still have to have the crank sensor? Or does that just help with the EDIS part? I want to go with just the MS for now and add the EDIS in later if I can. Don't mean to hyjack the thread, I just want to learn more about this as well:D

now THOSE are foglights. I like 'em! I have a friend that had the same set on a Datsun 510 wagon. It looked HOT man. Same goes for your wagon:D

The only hard part of lifting a gen 1 Brat or wagon is the fact the torsion bars are funky. The angles where the torsion bars connect to the body in the rear are very hard to figure out but if you can figure it out, the rest is basically like lifting an EA81 car...

dunno if its illegal to drive without bumpers but I did for a few months and never got pulled over for it. As for weight reduction on a Brat, it probably aint gonna happen very easily unless you do the interior strip and maybe cut half the bed floor out or something like that...

everything should be the same since they did use the same carb depending on the year of car it was taken from. If it's the two barrel Hitachi, it'll be the same but if it is the one barrel Carter-Weber, you'll have to do a swap to the two barrel in order for it to be the same. Search around, a few people have swapped and posted about it

you are right. It does dictate the engine size. It's the engine code that a lot of shops don't use but helps differ between an EA81 and an EA82, both of which are 1800cc engine. EA71 is a 1600cc (or 1.6 liter), made from about mid '77 to '80 with the top mounted starter (in '80 was only availible in the Brat with top mount), EA81 was from '80 to '89 depending on the car. The hatchback was made till '89 with the EA81 in it, Brat was made with the EA81 in it till '88? or so. Then the EA82 which is a over head cam model instead of over head valve like the EA81 and EA71's. EA82 was made from '85 to '94. From '90-'94, it was avalible in the Loyales since that was the only EA82 body style car left due to the start of the Legacy model line. Then there was also the ER27 which was only avalible in the XT6s. It was a 2.7 liter flat six; and EA82 with 2 more cylinders. That was avalible from '88-'91 IIRC... Hope that helps a bit

If the 1800 has the starter top mounted, then yes it will bolt in. If it has a side mounted starter (will be off to the driver's side) then it won't unless you either A. get an 1800 tranny that will have the same bellhousing that matches the engine or B. if it'll work, bolt the 1600 belhousing to the 1800 engine and it should mate up.

I like the look of the OEM WRX hoodscoop better then the cheap knock offs (no offense guys). I almost have mine molded into my hood, its taken me a few hours to make sides that widen the hump in the hood. Total cost so far including scoop has been around $50. I got the sheetmetal for free and I got some Bondo and the scoop for not very much either. I'll have pics here soon once I get it done and primered but I have been taking pics of it along the way:D

I got me a parts car for my RX. Its an '86 part time dual range 4wd sedan WITH the checkerboard interior. It also has a few parts I need to get my RX running again so hopefully it'll be back on the road in no time. Body is pretty straight BUT the hood and trunk lid are crap, broken sunroof (damn), EA82T is kinda apart but another engine that I can build for my RX when I get going on the monsterous motor, only 120K, digidash, black interior so I can convert mine over, and a bunch of misc. parts for it as well. Good axles (w00t) and tranny so hopefully I'll be able to sell some parts off of it. Yeah... I'm excited!!! The RX will LIVE!!!!

it sounds like the original tranny is an easy fix. The detent that hold the shift fork into first and third, since they are the same, is bad . A detent is basically a little ball with a spring behind it, applying pressure against the shift for rod and when you shift into a gear, the ball pops into a groove in the shift fork, preventing it from coming out of gear...

I have delt with John in the past many time from going to his old shop to kick it around with a bunch of people from this board like Junkie, subaru_styles, Flowmastered87GL and a few other people, to going to the new shop which he currently has. I have seen many of the projects that man has done in person and I am very impressed. Some people do NOT seem to realize that custom work takes much longer then expected because its CUSTOM. Especially when no one has ever done it before and its being done for the first time. Give the man a break, he's got a family to take care of and having them come first should come first bottom line.

the fenders from an '80 or '81 hatch or wagon are the EA81 bodystyle whereas the '80 and '81 Brats are the EA71 bodystyle or gen 1. Any fenders from a SUbaru from the late '77-'79 (or till '81 on the Brats) will fit though.

I agree!!! I'm far from being an electrical genius and so I don't have the confidence to screw, I mean, put something like this together let alone make it work properly...

Or just move somewhere that doesn't have inspections;)

Well when I think of a minitruck, I think of full on air bag setup, four link, c-notched frame, etc. Now I COULD use the old suspension from the Brat which has NO aftermarket parts whatsoever, mod in an EA82 suspension which yes, is being done currently but still, not a lot of options for aftermarket parts, or cut the whole floorpan and bed floor out of my Brat, build me my own custom rollcage attached to the Mazda frame and basically bolt on all of the outer sheetmetal to it, kinda like a drag car. In the year that I have been planning this, I believe it can be done with some time (well, a lot of time, lol) and money. Since I'm doing all the work myself, the cost should stay pretty reasonable for the type of project I'm doing. Now you're gonna ask me why the hell I'm doing it. Well I'm doing it because I can and because no one else has done it before. I'm going past the point of modding the car, its gonna be a totally different car, period!

I know where there's a 360 truck body and bed AND a 360 tow truck;) The tow truck is BEAUTIFUL!!!

My parts store has my car in the computer:-p When you get to the store, just take the couple of minutes to pull the cap and rotor off the car, walk inside and have them compare them. Seems to work better them "Well this is is" and then getting the wrong parts and then having to wait again for them to come in:rolleyes:

yes the Mazda frame is close but its still a few inches too long SO when I C-nothc the frame for the rear axle to tuck up into, I'll be shortenting the frame at the same time as well. I was thinking along the lines of a small block chevy motor for it;) I already got a turbo car so I want something that I can have fun in at the strip:D

So I was out at the Wyotech campus looking to see if there were any parts I could use for my RX like a manual pedal cluster and I came across a Mazda truck, about mid-late 80's I believe. Anyways if some of you might recall, I stripped down my '78 Brat in hopes of channeling the body or chopping the body all to hell and drop it onto a truck frame to make a minitruck out of it (hehehe first minitrucked Brat). This got me all excited since the body is totally trashed from being a comp car for collision/refinishing BUT the frame is perfectly fine AND it has front disc brakes (something that was a MUST). So at the end of the phase, I will be bringing home a little Mazda truck to make my Brat come back to life. And no, it won't be a "lets drop the body onto the frame and make it look like we spent 5 minutes doing it". I will be basically cutting the whole body apart except for the outer sheetmetal and then making a rollcage on top of the frame in which will also support the sheetmetal of the body. I will be taking lots of pics when I start the project again since I have to get the RX running once more:banana:

I need to figure out what two wires I need to splice in order to override the neutral switch and to figure out WHERE the switch is:rolleyes: or was. Since the wiring on a 3AT is completly different from the 4EAT, there is no connector at the shifter that I cut two wires on to override. I'm sooooo close to having this thing run once again. Just a few more bolt on things and we'll be rockin!

the differences between the two grinds is where in the RPMs the powerband is. The 272s I believe have a powerband starting at 3000 RPM and ending about 7000? RPM whereas the 260 grind has a lower (2000, 6000?) powerband. SO unless you plan on doing high revving shifts all the time, then the 260s would be the best bet for onroad use.

hehehe I can't wait to get mine rolled out of the garage for some new pics of it. MAN your RX looks soooooo nice. Wish mine was running... soon.... soon...

Ok just a quick question for you: Did you check the 90* hose coming off of the top of the waterpump to make sure it wasn't split? They have a tendency to split on the back side where you won't see them but will leak like a river. Check it to see if thats the problem. Should only be like a $10 part

So a couple more answers to your questions: Nope just leave it as is. It'll be just fine Just route it so you have it come to a T-fitting and have a little air filter on it