Caboobaroo

I'm saying that because the wiring on the 2006 and newer 3.0s and 2007 and newer 2.5s use a different wiring configuration that does not play nice in swaps. Only way to overcome all of the issues it will have is to run a stand alone fuel and ignition system, such as a MegaSquirt (MS3X), Link or the few others that can support the AVCS systems. As far as the mechanical aspect of it, convert away my friend! It's definetly an awesome project that you're diving into.

If I wasn't in the middle of moving, I would be all over it. Besides,it would look nice next to my other free ER27. What all has been done to it? What was the weak point in the ER? You say you'll never run another one again. This is good to know as I'm planning to build one for my XT6.

Ok I need to make one thing perfectly clear guys. Because GM had partial ownership of FHI back in '05 for a few years, starting in 2006, Subaru started using a CANBUS wiring system instead of the traditional system they had been using before. So unless you want to run an aftermarket management system, you will want to find a '01-'04 non AVCS 3.0. In '05, they started using AVCS and then '06, the wiring changed completely. They also started the DBW system in 2005 as well. I've been contemating running a 3.6 in my RX with a MegaSquirt 3 to control it.

If it was my car, I would change the brake fluid and cabin air filer every 15k miles, oil changes every 3k miles, diffs every 30k and since it's new enough, coolant doesn't need to be done until 100k miles (super long life OEM is blue).

I might have some free time this weekend before my final move to Portland. Shoot me a PM with your number.

It's also known as a fuel system induction service, just different wording. Most manufactures say that it'll help with longevity of the vehicle and this can be true, especially on older vehicles. Since the gasoline in the US runs at least a 10% ethanol most places, it can eat the fuel lines as its corrosive to the system. Depending on what kind of stuff they're using, it'll either help in the long run or it's crap and won't do anything. On something that new, it'll be a waste of money.

I also think that collapsed lifter on the #3 intake valve isn't helping either... Try unplugging the MAF and see if it runs better. My roommates 1UZ swapped 4Runner had a bad MAF and it was causing all types of run ability issues. He unplugged it, ran better but ran real rich, as the ECU now had substituted it's own value in for the MAF. Worst that might happens is the gas mileage is worse then it already is but might drive better.

I've seen lightened flywheels on the '02 and '03 WRXs cause misfire codes.

Awesome, welcome to the RX owner club! Looks like you founds decent one for the east coast. Doesn't appear to have much body rot in it which is great! I'm currently getting ready to move so it might be a few weeks but I might have some parts you're looking for. Shipping wouldn't be cheap but I do have a rust free subframe and a rear bumper beam.

Andrew, give me a couple weeks to get back down there. I have a spare EA82T MAF in my toolbox plus some other bits to try. I will be down this weekend but doing other stuff, might have time to chat.

I just read this and was going to post up that I have a spare EZ30 crank sensor and trigger wheel sitting here.... Glad you guys got it figured out. It's always nice to have someone nearby that has done a similar swap that can help figure out what's been missed!

I've had to do a couple timeserts in the past for head bolts. Make sure you keep everything straight or the head gasket will not seal properly. Also had a guy bring an EJ251 in that he had someone else do head gaskets on which failed. So he was doing them again, went to torque the head down on one side and pulled the threads out of three holes. Plus, the previous guy, decided to use a bolt that wasn't the same thread pitch or size... Needless to say, it couldn't be fixed.

If the bushings are already in holders, it's a real easy thing to replace. The end of the control arm has a 22mm nut that needs to come off, along with a metal washer and two rubber protectors. The inner protector is made to fit a certain direction but once it gets a bit oil soaked from the bushings, it might to stay put, which is ok. The bushing holder is attached to the body by two 19mm bolts. Once those are out, you can use a small prybar to pry the control arm away from the body and it slides off. If you have a manual transmission, the front crossmember can get in the way and be a pain but with some finesse, you can get it to come out. I have pressed in Whiteline bushing inserts into factory housings, and as long as you have a press, it's fairly simple. Just press the outer metal ring of the factory using out, and press the new one in. I had a few sets of Outback transverse bushings that split but the housings were still good. Ended up giving them to another board member (eggroller on SubaruOutback.org) if you want another set. One you're ready to install the bushings back into the car, get it all bolted up but leave the 22mm nut loose! If you tighten it up with the suspension unloaded (especially if the bushings are OEM), the instant you drop it back down, the bushing will twist to the point of splitting again. The suspension has to be loaded up (on the ground or on a ramp) before its tightened up. Also, if you're struts are pretty weak (either blown or very soft), it can also prematurely tear the bushing because of over excessive suspension travel. Just some food for thought!

Carrie and I might be there, all depends on how long we will be gone our honeymoon as we will be getting married the weekend before!

I wouldn't pay more then $500 for it. In a running condition, could be worth up to $7k but it wild have to be fairly low miles and very clean.

With the amount of cross caster, I'm willing to bet you probably have a bent control arm. Or whoever did the alignment previously could be having an issue with calibration on the machine. Does it pull to one side or the other? On uneven pavement, does it seem like the wheel moves quite a bit without the vehicle changing direction? Both those symptoms are common for blown transverse bushings. If its constantly pulling, something else is going on.

I would recommend using 3m butyl tape as its pretty much what was there from the factory. If you're planning on removing the tail lights and reinstalling easier, I typically cut the inner most hole open so I can slide it in. Most the time, the screws that hold the garnish with the license plate lights on, don't like coming out and cutting the hole open makes it a lot easier to slide the light in behind it.

Subaru has a glass kit you can buy. They were fairly inexpensive too. Get a heat gun or a good hair dryer if your wife will let you use it. When installing the glass, warm the edges of the black backing that comes over the edge of the glass and it will help with popping the new glass in.

I did a reseal on my XT6 1000 miles ago and since, I've had a phantom TOD, exhaust valve, #5 cylinder. When I was in there, I soaked the lifters in automatic transmission fluid while the heads were apart, primed each one by hand with 5w20 oil before install. I've done three l changes and ran ATF through it for 30 minutes between the second and third oil changes and it didn't help. If it sits for a couple weeks, it has ticked for a few minutes (dead of winter) but only a few seconds most the time. If I go back in, I'm replacing them all. Hopefully I have my new engine built by then.

Pretty much any Subaru front caliper will bolt on, with the exception of XT6s and EA cars. Look into rotor diameters as that will also tell you what is "larger" too. I plan on bolting on some '05 and up Legacy GT/3.0R front/rear brakes on my '04 Outback. Now also with increasing number of pistons/larger piston diameters, you'll also need to upgrade the master cylinder to a larger bore size. Most EA cars run a 13/16" bore diameter, my XT6 has a 15/16" bore, earlier Imprezas and Legacys with single piston calipers run a 15/16" bore, later Imprezas/Legacys with two piston front calipers run a 1" bore, WRXs (with 4/2 pot calipers) and STis run a 1 1/16" bore. It will say on the master cylinder in small numbers what size it is so make sure you check the car the parts are coming off of and verify size vs your master cylinder. Also make sure it has the same number of ports on it and the location of them. You can "adjust" brake lines a bit around the master to get certain ones to work just don't get too happy about bending lines or one could break. I have tons more info as I do a lot of undercar work on Subarus...

Just got a '06 Baja turo 5-speed in the shop. 68k miles and has a burnt exhaust valve on #4. Came in with a flashing CEL, P0304.

Here's one of me and Scarlett out at my half day rally class at Dirtfish

With the 3.6 and all Subaru 6 cylinders, they run a higher compression ratio then the 4 cylinders so they recommend running premium gasoline. When its going to be $5 different at the pump total for fill up, why risk it on a new car?

Wish I could have stayed around a bit to chat while you two were at the yard in Sherwood but I had to make the long drive back to Seattle... Glad it worked out for you though!

I've actually seen this issue recently. Like everyone else said, the fuel pump would be where I start.