Caboobaroo

The dump valve can stick, especially when they are a cheaper, aftermarket one. Seen a few cause vacuum issues due to being stuck open.

I want to make a few slight changes to what Gloyale said but he's pretty much spot on. The oil pan drain plug is a 14mm headed plug now on the 2012, pretty much right next to the front swaybar. It's mounted vertically in the pan now. Since it is a 2012 4 cylinder, it should have a CVT transmission in it, which has a hex plug on the pan now, toward the driver side back corner for the transmission fluid. The front diff is a Torx T70 drain plug but since there is no dipstick, you have to remove the 14mm bolt on the diff housing (bolts in vertically) while it's being filled. Once it's full, gear oil will start coming out of the hole the 14mm bolt plugs. Sounds like he might have removed the overfill plug on the diff. Would really depend on where it's located on the vehicle (pictures always help). If just a dribble came out (not a couple pints of fluid), there's probably not enough fluid loss to hurt anything but there is always that chance.

I always find it is easier to pull the engine, then remove the transmission, especially if you don't have access to a lift. If I had to do it, I would replace the separator plate with a new metal one from Subaru, along with the rear main seal and wrist pin access o-ring. Of course I would also fix any other leaks while it was out too but if you don't have a lot of time, then reseal what's needed and drop back in.

Not hard at all. Disconnect the brown plug that is mounted on top of the bellhousing, under the throttle body. Then on the driver side of the transmission, is the switch, just make sure you pull the right one as the reverse switch is pretty close to it. Use a 19mm open ended wrench and thread it out of the transmission. Its a common issue for the plastic knub on the switch to wear and will erratically make the ECU think its in neutral when its actually in gear.

Subaru recommends the transmission fluid being changed every 30k miles, along with the rear diff gear oil. Since you are close enough to the service interval, probably should do the 30k mile service (engine air filter, cabin air filter, oil change, transmission fluid, rear diff fluid, spark plugs, brake fluid). If the coolant color is BLUE, then it has a 100k mile service change.

'01 is MAP based as well. '00 was the first year of the MAP based 2.5 as it started with the SOHC. Now '99 SOHC Foresters were a MAF based ECU. If the ECU came from an auto, it won't work for the manual which is why you're getting transmission torque converter permission codes. ECU is waiting for input from the TCU in regards to torque converter but since it doesn't have either a TCU or a torque converter, thus why the CEL is prompted on. Some codes take two run cycles for them to come back. It doesn't matter if it's a quick startup, shut off and restart or overnight.

What's the reason on why you're having to top it off? How low is it? It might be easier to just drain and refill the transmission and use an oil from the parts store. The dealer probably uses some bulk 75w90 gear oil that comes in a big drum. If you want, you can use the Subaru Extra S gear oil but it's fairly expensive and it's the only OEM gear oil that I know of.

I know we rebuild them at my shop but a short block is $1850 rebuilt I believe. Buying a used one can be nightmarish if you don't know any of the history of it. Ask about how often the oil was changed. If it was more then 3k miles or the person doesn't know, hopefully you get it for a steal as it'll probably eat oil regularly.

If the entire engine is being rebuilt and I mean new rings, bearings, cylinder hone, etc, then it will probably be a worth while investment. If he didn't replace the rings and have the block honed, walk away. The difference in doing oil changes every 3,000 miles vs 5-7,000 or never, will eat the rings up faster then you could imagine. I have seen cars with lower miles that had oil changes done further apart, consuming oil at 50k miles (2010 Forester). Usually they will really start consuming oil around 150k miles and I mean, eating 2-3 quarts between oil changes. I've seen plenty of Subarus with spun bearings and it's almost always from lack of oil. Doesn't matter if it eats it or leaks it, if the oil level is not monitored and it runs low, you'll end up with a spun bearing.

If the regulator was the issue, you're fuel pump would be dead already. Seen it happen in a few miles of running on a Forester XT, bad regulator toasted a new pump. How do the spark plugs look or have they even been out? If so, what is the gap that has been set on them? What kind of plugs were used? A P0420 is a catalyst deficiency code and it is possible the cat could be clogging up the exhaust. Is the exhaust (manifold, up pipe, downpipe, catback) factory or is any of it aftermarket? also, it is much easier to remove the downpipe to check for shaft play, not the inlet as most of the time, the factory ones will come off but won't go back on. Does it run rough at idle? Try a can of brake cleaner to check for vacuum leaks around intake piping form the air box to the turbo, the intercooler, the base of the intake manifold whereit bolts to the heads, and the vacuum lines that are behind the power steering pump. While its idling and you're spraying those areas, anytime you hear the idle come up, you're in the area of a vacuum leak. Does it have an aftermarket atmospheric blow off valve or does it recirculate back into the turbo inlet?

With the age and mileage, it would be uncommon if it had a collapsed valve seat, especially since you say your commute is all city street driving. It's definetly something that I wouldn't see everyday but it can happen. Only way to know is if you check the valve clearance. I know it's not something that's going to be fun by any means, I detest checking valve clearances so I check everything else before I dive in. If I have to get that far, most the time there is something going on with the clearances and it needs a valve job. I can also help walk you through it too. Just let me know.

Radiator cap, I always use OEM. If it fails and doesn't let the cooling system open properly, you can have another sort of failure such as a blown hose or a blown head gasket. Seen a few that come in with blown head gaskets because of a faulty radiator cap or a partially restricted radiator.

The lock to lock is faster on the XT6 then any other EA82 car with power steering. According to my '87 FSM, all EA82 cars have a lock to lock of 3.7 turns. The '89 FSM shows that XTs with power steering had a lock to lock of 3.5 and the XT6 has a lock to lock of 3.2. Granted, it says the EA82s have a tighter turning radius but with my rack and the Impreza knuckles, I have a better radius. I can turn within a narrow two lane road without any issues and have room to spare.

Yup, cork gaskets, especially oil pan, suck. I resealed my ER27 less then 1000 miles ago and it's already seeping from the back of the pan. I'm going to yard it off and just use standard ultra gray as that's how the seal is for an EJ engine. I even coated both sides of the cork in silicone and let it set up for a few days before I ran it. Oh well, looks like another weekend project.

Here's my cell phone pic from a drive the other day....

I know what you mean Nico. I have seen this on a couple different 5-lug swaps I've done. I ended up drilling the hole out a bit further away from the pocket and welding on some thick washers to reinforce the newly drilled holes. As far as a better rack, the XT6 is the best bolt in for the EA82 chassis option.

I use a thicker , blue glove with a texture on the finger tips and a longer sleeve portion. Use them everyday in the shop, probably go through a box of 50 in 2 weeks. I reuse them all the time but after a few headgasket jobs with Brake Clean and oil, the do start to swell. I've been using gloves for quite awhile and when I don't have them on, it feels weird. Once you've gotten used to them, feeling isn't much of an issue. If I'm working with small items or interior jobs, most the time I don't wear them, unless the interior is down right discusting.

OR, it can also flash due to a Duty C solenoid that is starting to go bad. Count the number of flashes and report back. It wil flash on initial startup and then go out.

Had a chance to install the Whiteline steering rack bushings and the Nardi wheel. No pictures of the wheel in the car as there is a bit more modifying that needs to be done on the hub cover as to not interfere with the new steering column covers I have. I can tell you though, after a touch up on the front end alignment in combination with the wheel and bushings, this car turns when you expect it to. The drive home from work after the install was incredible. Had a bit of a problem with over steering it a bit much as I was used to a shifting rack.

Had a nice drive to a work event on Saturday. Only picture I got was this one.

Got the Nardi fitted to the car and what a difference in steering grip there is. It's quite a bit harder then the squishy OEM one but its a perfect feel for it. It was not a bolt on modification like I was hoping. Turns out, the XT columns have different splines then the EA or EJ cars but no need to fear! Nothing a cut off wheel, a grinder, a welder, and a couple slower days at work can't fix. Ended up removing the splined boss that is welded to the factory wheel, removed the same boss on the Nardi hub and weld the XT boss on. The XT boss needed a step turned into the end that fit into the Nardi hub but with no lathe readily available, I got creative with a cut off wheel to create the same step. Factory wheel intact with original boss Nardi hub intact with original boss Nardi boss next to modified XT boss XT boss welded to Nardi hub Turn signals even still work! I still need to modify the hole for the clock spring to come through the hub but then my horn will work again. I'm also locating the cruise control buttons from the column to the left pod. The contours of the pod are very close to those of the buttons so it will still retain an OEM look. I also have spares of pretty much everything for the car so I can return it to complete stock if I choose to.... But where's the fun in that? Here's one more for today... Mounted on the spare column I pulled from the rafters.

Welcome! I lived in laramie for a few years but moved back to Washington. Parts can be had fairly easy for your bodystyle, especially here on the board. Again, welcome to the board!

The 5w30 is just what I've been running but the car has maybe 800 miles on it since the engine reseal and has 2 oil changes in that time period. It's sad as I don't drive it very much (carpool to work with my roommate and I have the Outback which the wife daily drives) but of course, I have been in a lot of close calls from people not paying attention. Last thing I want is some idiot getting into a wreck with me while I'm driving it. I will hopefully get some more pictures uploaded tonight of the Nardi wheel that I modified the hub on to work on the XT6

So a current, up to date maintanence/modification list Drivetrain: Fully resealed ER27 New water pump New spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor New clutch kit New timing belts, rollers, tensioners, covers and serpentine belt Motul 5w30 engine oil Subaru Extra-S gear oil New OEM shifter bushings K&N drop in filter with Swiss cheez'd air box Magnaflow canister muffler 1993 Legacy SS 3.90 VLSD Suspension/Brakes: 2004 WRX front calipers, pads and rotors 2004 WRX rear calipers pads and rotors 2004 WRX rear backing plates, parking brake assembly, and cables 2000 2.5RS front brake hoses 2000 Outback rear brake hoses 2000 2.5RS leather parking brake handle 1996 Impreza front knuckles with new NTN bearings Front KYB AGX struts with EBay coil over sleeves Stock rear shocks with EBay coil over sleeves Speciality Products Company adjustable radius rods Whiteline polyurethane radius rod bushings Exterior/Interior: 1987 RX side skirts and rear spats Enkei RPF1 17x8 wheels in silver with 215/45R17 Toyo Proxes 4 tires Smoked taillights Hella Supertone horns Hella E-code headlight housings with H4 bulbs 18% window tint Modifications needing to be installed/finished: '93-'01 Impreza Whiteline polyurethane steering rack bushings 1994 JDM WRX Nardi leather steering wheel Super Pro polyurethane rear diff mount bushing Super Pro rear trailing arm bushings Super Pro front control arm bushings Whiteline 20mm front/rear swaybar bushings Whiteline transmission subframe polyurethane bushings Cusco solid engine mounts and transmission mount Stuff still to come: Suspension/Brakes: ISC coil overs Whiteline Comp-C top hats Whiteline roll center adjuster kit DBA4000 rotors (F&R) Hawk HPS pads (F&R) Stainless steel brake lines (2005 Legacy GT fitment) 1" bore master cylinder (I have a 1 1/16" bore master but that's more for Brembos or FHI 4/2pots) Drivetrain: Full MegaSquirt setup (thinking of a MS3 now for better 6 cylinder operation) Delta reground cams for the ER27 Wiseco custom spec pistons with new rings and pins (higher compression) New rod and main bearings Full port, polish and port match of the heads, intake and exhaust New Mizpah lifters Phase 1 transmission internals from a JDM STi with DCCD? EJ clutch and flywheel? Lots and lots more to come.

Has the timing belt covers been taken back off and the cam timing checked? Sounds like its possible the passenger side cam is off a tooth. Also, have any of the valve guides moved?