Caboobaroo

Well I've pulled the cluster before but I was too tired to do it yesterday so I'll probably do it today before I go to bed I need to find the TCU... Hmm.... I got some flowers I guess I could give to my neutral saftey switch instead of give them to my g/f, THAT would go over real well:rolleyes: I'm planning on speding some time putting the pedal cluster in but I wasn't sure how hard it was to do so since the gen 1's seem pretty easy. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the difflock/reverse lights/4wd indicators?

Like using a 3 ton come along, 2 2x4s and the rafters in the garage as a cherry picker... or using the same setup to help install a transmission when working by ones self... I LIKE!

or if you do those and still notice its stiff, be warned I had this problem on a friends '87 GL turbowagon. It was stiff when he got it but we thought nothing of it. Then one day while I was driving it, it started loosing the clutch like it didn't want to disengage so I tried to adjust it. Worked for about 2 miles when it started grinding again. Turned out the clutch fork pivot hadn't been greased when the clutch was done so it ended up fracturing and thus not wanting to disengage the clutch. Just another thing to check for. All you have to do is take a flashlight and peeke down the boot around the clutch fork and see if it has any fractures in it.

just paint the "STi" logo on the stock WRX intercooler. Garner did that with his gen 1 Brat he dropped an EA82T into. He put a stock WRX intercooler on it and he painted "BRAT" on it to resemble the "STi" intercooler. Here's a pic of it... http://usmb.net/gallery/garners-sub-a-rama/underthehoody Enjoy!

[hyjack] heh I found a pic of the hose that created the leakage on my RX motor http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/oilhose.jpg [/hyjack]

well I was thinking a little more in dept like pulling the automatic and the TCU/harness/shifter. Also what parts would be needed for the swap as well so then some of the newbies planning on doing a swap into an automatic car that has a bad auto tranny... just make it easier on them and us so then they're not asking the same repetitive questions... I still have to swap in the cluster from the manual car as well but I'll probably do that here in a couple days. Oh and just a couple questions for those who have done it *cough* Caleb *cough* 1. Where is the TCU located? How hard is it to access it and pull it with all of the harness? What's involved with pulling the harness? 2. You mention the neutral switch. Is this connected to the ECM somehow? is there a nicer way then to jumper it shut or is that how its done on the manual cars? 3. How hard is it to pull the pedal cluster? I haven't looked yet on either my manual parts car or my RX but I heard from someone it was a pain in the butt. 4. Diff lock wiring... I'm getting the console and the switch with the wiring I hope but is it an easy plug-n-play action or is it a pain in the butt as well? What about reverse lights like you mentioned and the "4WD" and "LOW" lights? The cluster is from a manual RX.... Thanks for the help guys, I hope to have the swap done soon and hopefully the motor back together in this decade:rolleyes:

Welp, I've begun the swap from my 4EAT to my newly aquired RX tranny (FT 4wd d/r 5-speed) in my RX. Why they put an automatic in the RX's in '89 is beyond me. Anyways, the 4EAT has been out of the car for a few weeks and so its been sitting empty with no motor and tranny for about a month now. So since I'm not tired today (I work nights) and its not cold outside, I decided to put my nice tranny in my RX. Well I got the tranny in and bolted up the crossmember, driveshaft, and the shift linkage in about 2 1/2 hours. Yes for some that seems like awhile for a tranny swap but hey, its my first time doing this swap for one and I'm working by myself as well. I even got my B&M shift handle on the shifter too! When I'm completly done with the whole swap, I'll do a detailed write-up for the USRM. Oh buddy, I'm getting excited!! I think this might deserve the I'm hoping to have the parts I need to put my motor back together here real soon so then I can get it back in and running, then the 5-lug conversion, and then some more aftermarket mods.

I've seen a website with the small block conversion done to a Corvair since I was planning on getting a '66 with only 35k on the ticker. All I have to say is that if you can fit a Sube drivetrain in there, that would be PIMP!

I must be one of these Mr. BowTiebaru guys too lol. Your best bet would be to get a 4wd tranny from a Blazer or truck and adapt that to fit into the Brat instead of trying to use the 5-speed. Would be easier to do BUT you'd have to hang a rear diff from a Subaru in the front. There's a few people with lifts who have done the whole rear diff in the front thing. I have seen a gen 1 Brat with a 2.8L carbed motor in it and it roasted the stock tranny in it so I don't know if that 5-speed would hold the power from that v6. Subarubrat here on the board and also at www.subarubrat.com has a 2.7L flat 6 from an XT6 in his gen 2 Brat with lots of power and the 5-speed seems to be doing fine. He is one of the rear diff guys like I mentioned earlier. If you're looking to go for easiness compared to "Well will this work? Will this hold? Am I doing this right?" then you might want to consider the stock tranny from the Blazer. At least the tranny will be able to hold the power form that motor. I'm planning on dropping a 350 into my gen 1 Brat with a Borg-Warner 5-speed but I'm also putting a full frame from a Nissan truck underneath it too and its going to be only RWD. Sounds like you got yourself a challenge! Good luck!

OR you cnould have a bad PCV valve which would cause it to suck up oil and burn it as well. Not quite sure how emissions testing goes since the last place I lived that had it (California) I was barely in elementary school:lol:

I used 2 cans of SeaFoam on a '74 Jeep J10 pickup a couple years ago. I put one in the gas tank and in the oil system of the motor and the other I poured right down the carb on it. Smoked like a b**** but it ran so smooth afterwards it was amazing. I didn't even have to touch the carb to tune it and it was a Motorcraft:D

yeah check out www.nasioc.com for one. They tend to go there for decent prices. I picked mine up for $115 bucks shipped and that included the PSM WRX hoodscoop from an '02. Also got my TD04 turbo from someone on that board as well for $120 shipped.

then I guess my RX is special since it had the 4EAT and the LSD in the rear.... or is it ALL RXs no matter tranny in '89?

well last night I went to drive it back to my g/f's house from where it had died the previous night and I got it turned around and almost in front of her front gate and it died again so I'm gonna swap in the extra disty I have since it worked fine in my Brat when I pulled it and I also had the Accel coil hooked up to it as well. I'm gonna do that today along with put the tranny in the RX:rolleyes:

well it died again leaving my g/f's house and so in the cold and the dark, I kinda poked around under the hood to see if I could find anything loose/disconnected. Well I tried the plugwires and low and behold, the disty cap wiggles around but both clips are on it and I couldn't get the dang thing off. SO, I'm gonna swap the disty out with the other one I have with the new plugwires and crap like that tomorrow but now, I'm cold, tired, and wish my g/f was here:(

Duh I know this. The car only has 90k miles on it I mean I'm not stupid guys sheesh! I got it back to my house. I got to the car and it fired right up. Must have gremlins in it or something I guess....

if anything I have another disty '83-newer style that I can drop in and it worked when I pulled it from the Brat...

Ok so this morning at 2:00 am, Josh and I (he owns the wagon) were coming home for lunch and had a little bit of fun in the snow before we left... anyways, so we get about 1/4 mile from work heading home and it starts to die like the rpms started to drop and so I downshifted and let the clutch out. It did it again but then it kicked back up like it was going to run but then continued to drop rpms. I got it in a parking lot and it seemed like it was getting fuel since I could smell it but would just crank over. It almost started once but that was a lost cause... The car is an '81 2wd wagon, '86 EA81 with the '81 carb and whatnot (feedback carb), and is all stock BUT I did throw my Accel Superstock coil from my Brat into it. I think the coil finally died so it lost spark. I'm gonna try and put the stock coil back in it but is there anything else I should do? Oh and there about 4" of snow on the ground too and below freezing temps so no "side-of-the-road" repairs:rolleyes:

you need the caliper, rotor, pads and the caliper mounting bracket since I believe its different. Everything else should work and it should bolt up to the car.

so are you currently running the Weber or the stock Hitachi? If you're running the Weber, I'd look into getting it rejetted since its probably jetted too big.

wow is THIS an old post lol... I had the stock Hitachi on it and it worked but I was getting 30mpg out of it... I did drop a JDM high compression EA71 into my Brat and put a Holley 5200 on it (a Weber knock-off made by Weber) and it wouldn't run quite right for some reason. I had a lot more power though which was the upside but I was also getting like 15mpg from it afterwards. The electronic disty helped a lot IMO. If you need help with an installation, I did a write-up in the USRM here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=38 If you need any other help, I have a revised FSM for gen 1 stage 2 cars that was revised in 1982 I think and I can do a step-by-step process of carb rebuild procedure if you'd like.

Gotta get excited over something since the RX isn't running yet....

I'm buying a AEM CAI in hopes of it fitting onto my TD04 when I get it in the RX. Does anyone know if it'll fit? If it would, how much would I have to modify it to work? Let hope it does cause its blue and the motor is blue and everything else is blue....on my black car:D Oh and on a side note, I also have a GReddy Profec B-Spec II EBC coming as well... can't beat 200 bucks shipped I think:D

it took me a few hours since it was my first EA82T I've pulled myself. I've helped pull them before but I wanted to take my time and make sure I didn't forget to disconnect anything but I also had AC as well.... I used a come-along and the rafters in my garage to pull it and I think it worked better then a cherry picker!

well the electronic ones will be tons more expensive but I think they'd be more accurate then the MBCs. I'm getting a GReddy Profec B-Spec II EBC for 200 bucks shipped form a guy on NASIOC and yeah it sounds expensive but from the GReddy website, they run $420 PLUS shipping... so 200 shipped isn't to bad IMO